Using ramps for oil changes

[acdcking12]

So if I decided to do my own oil changes, will just using two front ramps to move the front higher be good enough?

Meaning it wont be level, will most of the oil still drain because the back wheel will be on the ground?

 

[SteveLaoyster]

If you don't mind laying on the floor you don't need the ramps. I don't raise mine up and have no problems. Plus I'm in no hurry so I let it drain for an hour or 2.

 

[EdMat]

It will work. Place the ramps so you are backing up onto them then the sloped part will be out of the way. It may be too low if you are planning to use a creeper but works fine if laying on cardboard or the floor. Don't forget to stuff a rag or two around the drain holes to keep any oil from getting on top of the panels.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

I use ramps without any problem. All the oil appears to drain correctly.

 

[HankD]

I use ramps without any problem. All the oil appears to drain correctly.

Ditto. I just did mine and it worked fine with the front wheels backed up onto ramps. I put a small scissor jack at a safe place I found closer to the rear just to level it out a few inches (not anywhere close to completely level), but I doubt it was necessary.

One day I will tell the story of how I first tried to back up onto 3 ramps (the 3rd one behind the rear wheel).....but the outcome still makes me cringe :yikes:

 

[bikerbillone]

Often wondered if that would work, now I know, good thread.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

It will work. Place the ramps so you are backing up onto them then the sloped part will be out of the way. It may be too low if you are planning to use a creeper but works fine if laying on cardboard or the floor. Don't forget to stuff a rag or two around the drain holes to keep any oil from getting on top of the panels.

:agree: …. However if the surface the rear tire is on is smooth traction might be an issue..... also almost any type of jack cam be used to raise the rear tire / frame etc. so the Spyder is level ….. unless the engine is at least warm. the longer it drains the better …. ONLY put 4.5 qts. in and then check it after you can get it up to Temp ….. running it slightly low will have No ill effects and you won't over-fill it ….. Mike hyea:

 

[JayBros]

I use ramps without any problem. All the oil appears to drain correctly.

+3! Works very well.

 

[Gwolf]

Using a platform scissor jack under the rear to bring it up level. Plenty of room.

 

[40Xshooter]

I use ramps underneath the front wheels and a cinder block underneath the rear. Levels it out nicely!

 

[pegasus1300]

I back up two ramps for the front, then jack up the rear to level things out and put a 3rd ramp under the rear wheel to keep things safe. I am glad to see I am not the only one who tried to go up 3 ramps at once. Very bad memories.:yikes::yikes::cus:

 

[EdMat]

:agree: …. However if the surface the rear tire is on is smooth traction might be an issue..... also almost any type of jack cam be used to raise the rear tire / frame etc. so the Spyder is level ….. unless the engine is at least warm. the longer it drains the better …. ONLY put 4.5 qts. in and then check it after you can get it up to Temp ….. running it slightly low will have No ill effects and you won't over-fill it ….. Mike hyea:

Just have to use a running start :clap:

 

[PMK]

Never been a fan of draining oil when the vehicle is not close to level.

On the Spyder, I either just leave it low and one the floor, or have the jack out. Raise the Spyder and place it on blocks or two ramps front and block in the rear.

For our Spyder, driving up automotive ramps does not work. The trailer hitch mudflap scrapes the ground and will get torn off.

Just what I prefer, but as you can see, many long timers have been using ramps forever.

 

[Trbayth]

Add me to the list of people that tried to drive up ramps. Results were not pretty.

Now I use a motorcycle lift to raise the whole thing up, put stands under the front wheels, then lower the bike down on the stands. Real easy.

 

[Rattlebars]

This Harbor Freight jack has an extremely low insertion profile and raises it high enough to do most work. Can be had for $60 with coupon.

https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/15-ton-aluminum-rapid-pump-racing-floor-jack-64545.html

 

[Grandpot]

Driving up the ramps in reverse can be a little hairy. If you go too far it will be a disaster. I raise mine with a lift, then put three ramps under the tires, then lower the bike down and remove the lift. When I'm done I can just drive forward, off the ramps. Just make sure those ramps face backwards. Much safer way to do it.

 

[JayBros]

If you look at the position of the crankcase and clutch cover drain plugs you can see they are located on the back, rearward side of the engine and, in my experience with my Spyder on my level garage floor, the engine drains fully with just the front wheels on standard car ramps. The proof for me is when I add 5 qt of fresh oil and then check the level with all three wheels back on the floor it is right where it's supposed to be on the dipstick.

 

[PinkRosePetal]

....Just make sure those ramps face backwards. Much safer way to do it.

Erm, why is that the case?

 

[Eckhard]

I back up two ramps for the front, then jack up the rear to level things out and put a 3rd ramp under the rear wheel to keep things safe. I am glad to see I am not the only one who tried to go up 3 ramps at once. Very bad memories.:yikes::yikes::cus:

Where do you lift at the back?

 

[Grandpot]

Erm, why is that the case?

If the ramps face forward, you would not be able to drive down the ramps. The rear wheel ramp will hit the bottom of the frame.