What is a VSS fault?

[fulltimer]

2022 RT-L, aprox. 11k miles, put in to service May 16 of this year and has had the 3k mile run through.
This shows up for about 5 seconds occasionally, under the following conditions. After riding for at least a half hour and perhaps stopping for a stretch and shutting the engine off. The engine hesitates momentarily as if the battery were a little weak, (don't think so as it's new) or the ignition was advanced a little. Only hesitates for a moment and always starts and the fault banner disappears also.
Do I need to worry about this one or just forget it?

 

[BajaRon]

The VSS is your braking system. Including all the wheel, brake pressure and pedal travel sensors. When the system finds an issue with any of these components it will throw a code. Usually nothing serious. But you don't want to discover how serious it is the hard way. It could be anything from air in the system to some component failing or a bad sensor. You need to plug it into BUDS and find out what the problem is and get it addressed.

 

[Peter Aawen]

VSS = Vehicle Stabilty System, and it responds to feedback from all the Braking, Traction Control, Yaw, & Wheel Rotation Sensors, plus probably a few I've forgotten (damned Forgettory working overtime again! )

Seeing the Spyder Symbol with the squiggly lines behind it is what you'd normally see if it kicks in, and that's usually not a major issue; occasionally flashing on momentarily as you lift a front wheel or spin the back wheel and get a few moments of different wheel rotation speed; or maybe as you lean a little too much &/or brake hard while pushing into or swinging wide on a corner; or when anything else triggers a momentary response from the Nanny before she brings it all back under control. However, it seems to me that the 2020 & newer Spyders are having an increased number of actual 'fault' issues with the VSS, often requiring multiple sensor resets... I don't know if it's due to failures of the sensors themselves; poor connections between the sensor/s and the various computers involved; or just poor initial sensor/parameter set-up, either at the factory or during initial assembly at the dealers. :dontknow:

Regardless of the cause, there's more and more of this sort of VSS fault being reported on the newer Spyders; and the usual/eventual 'fix' ends up being either a bunch of sensor/set-up recalibration, or the replacement of a bunch of sensors followed by that recalibration. There's a few threads here discussing this, particularly regarding the newer models of Spyder - it might pay to do a search and some reading, then follow it up with your nearest reliable dealer with competent techs (yeah, I know - 'reliable' and 'competent' being the rarely found but critical words! :banghead: ) And DO NOT whatever you do ignore an ongoing VSS Fault! :lecturef_smilie:

Those momentary flashes that go away, fine, they're just the Nanny stepping in to make sure you behave & remain safe... but a fault that doesn't go away is telling you that YOU AREN'T SAFE and you need to get things fixed PDQ! :yikes:

 

[Bfromla]

You mention a new battery, how is it’s charge? And good clean tight connections?? Star washers? :dontknow: :dontknow: opcorn:
Additionally, you can check the wheels, namely the slotted discs, hopefully there's no bent /missing fingers...

Rear:

Front:

Sometimes mud/dirt can fill in gaps & confuse the sensor

 

[JSRT]

Earlier this year when my 22RTL was new, it exhibited the VSS warning on start-up at times. It seemed to be caused by low voltage while starting. As soon as the engine started, it would disappear. An overnight charge on an automatic charger resolved the issue. Since the weather got warm and the Spyder gets ridden several times a week, I've had no issues. With 11k miles since May, your Spyder seems to get ridden more than enough to keep the battery charged. You may need to have the battery load tested to be sure it's not faulty.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Earlier this year when my 22RTL was new, it exhibited the VSS warning on start-up at times. It seemed to be caused by low voltage while starting. As soon as the engine started, it would disappear. An overnight charge on an automatic charger resolved the issue. Since the weather got warm and the Spyder gets ridden several times a week, I've had no issues. With 11k miles since May, your Spyder seems to get ridden more than enough to keep the battery charged. You may need to have the battery load tested to be sure it's not faulty.

When I start my 14 RT all the " warning icon " appear ...... this is to let kno0w they are working .... then they all dis-appear .... this may be why you see the VSS at start-up ....Mike :thumbup:

 

[Adventurer]

There is a service bulletin for 2020+ RT's for hard start issues. Requires an update to the ECM. If your battery is a little weak and barley turning the motor over enough to start this could cause the VSS warning. Check with your dealer about the Hard Start ECM update that my be all you need.

 

[fulltimer]

Thanks all. It sounds like I may have a issue with hot starting which is causing the momentary showing of the "VSS FAULT". That is the only times I have seen the issue.

 

[Peter Aawen]

Thanks all. It sounds like I may have a issue with hot starting which is causing the momentary showing of the "VSS FAULT". That is the only times I have seen the issue.

Does it still do that hesitation thing and display the fault if you've been riding for more than 1/2 an hour - saayyy, for at least an hour?? Do you put your battery on a battery tender between rides; or does it ever sit for longer than about a week without running at Hwy speeds for more than about 30 mins?? It generally takes at least bout 30 mins of reasonable revs/riding just to replace the charge drained by the first start after sitting for a few days, so maybe you're just not getting enough charge back into the battery before hitting it with the starting load again?? :dontknow:

There's that ^^ and also what you describe with that slight hesitation &/or a fault light staying on can sometimes be an early sign of a weak &/or dying battery, and they can die at any time; some do so even at just days old! :shocked: So don't think it's impossible for that to be the cause of all this just cos your Spyder's relatively new - there's even been a few 2023 Spyders with less milage than yours have battery failures already; and many more new owners are finding that both the new &/or replacement OEM batteries installed in the last few year/models of Spyders are nowhere near as good as they used to be, with a growing number of early battery failures being reported here and elsewhere! So maybe you should get yours tested?? Most auto elec or battery outlets will do it for you for free, and they'll check that the alternator's doing the right thing too! :thumbup:

Just a thoughty or two!?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

VSS will also show if the passenger seat sensor isn't connected, or has a loose connection. At least that's the case on pre-2020 models.

 

[fulltimer]

Peter. My riding is both short and long (1 hour plus). I haven't been able to pinpoint whether it is after, let say 1/2 hour or longer stints in the saddle. But it DOES only happen when the engine hesitates, as mentioned earlier. I don't use a battery tender as I ride it at least multiple times a week and often at least once per week for one hour going to a breakfast. Perhaps that is not enough but it always fires right off when cold.
The bike is now put to bed for the winter as we have migrated down to Apache Junction AZ for the winter. I will be on my 2016 RTL for the next 6 months. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. When I get back, I will put it on a tender and see if that makes the booboo go away.

 

[blacklightning]

My buddies wife's 2022 F3S does the same thing when he first cranks it. It is mainly due to a slow start, but after a ride it is all better. My 2016 F3L special series has started to do it if not ridden at least once per week. But I still have the original battery, so I am expecting to have to replace it any day. Hoping it will hold out until the spring.

 

[Wmoater]

Peter. My riding is both short and long (1 hour plus). I haven't been able to pinpoint whether it is after, let say 1/2 hour or longer stints in the saddle. But it DOES only happen when the engine hesitates, as mentioned earlier. I don't use a battery tender as I ride it at least multiple times a week and often at least once per week for one hour going to a breakfast. Perhaps that is not enough but it always fires right off when cold.
The bike is now put to bed for the winter as we have migrated down to Apache Junction AZ for the winter. I will be on my 2016 RTL for the next 6 months. Thanks for all the suggestions and help. When I get back, I will put it on a tender and see if that makes the booboo go away.

Fulltimer are you telling me you leave your poor spyder up north for 6 months and are in Apache junction for the beautiful weather from November till May? Rent a small Uhaul trailer and take that thing with you. I’m guessing storage of trailer is not an option for you so rent one. Then rent a uhaul and take it back with you. My dad is in mesa same months as you and he puts close to 12-15k in 6 months down there! You are in some beautiful riding areas on southern Arizona and New Mexico my friend! There are some awesome breakfast and ice cream shops within 4 hours of you! Excuses my dad says to me for taking a day ride

 

[golfsferr]

What you said below is exactly what happened to me! Turned a corner quickly lifted the front left tire a little and instantly pulled a VSS fault and went into limp mode!

..... Seeing the Spyder Symbol with the squiggly lines behind it is what you'd normally see if it kicks in, and that's usually not a major issue; occasionally flashing on momentarily as you lift a front wheel or spin the back wheel and get a few moments of different wheel rotation speed; or maybe as you lean a little too much &/or brake hard while pushing into or swinging wide on a corner; or when anything else triggers a momentary response from the Nanny before she brings it all back under control. .....

 

[telespec]

I have a 2012 RTS SE5 with more than 36 thousand miles on her and was getting VSS and DPS faults I replaced the battery and the faults when away but when making a turn it feels different what do I do to fix my problem?

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I have a 2012 RTS SE5 with more than 36 thousand miles on her and was getting VSS and DPS faults I replaced the battery and the faults when away but when making a turn it feels different what do I do to fix my problem?

Buy a new Spyder! :roflblack:

Seriously, check to see if there are any stored fault codes. I don't think faults based on insufficient power, or intermittent momentary failures get stored, which would be the faults you saw previously. If you are not getting any DPS faults then as far as I know there is nothing wrong and you have no way to "fix" the problem. Are you sure the different feeling isn't the result of the DPS working properly compared to when you saw the faults come up? The DPS faults you saw previously surely indicated that the DPS was not functioning correctly, most likely due to the battery not having enough oomph to satisfy the DPS demand.

The newer Spyders have easier steering from what owners have said here.

 

[telespec]

I was able to turn more easily before I changed the battery.:dontknow:

I thought of trading it in, it might be time.

 

[ReRose]

Wife has a 2020 Spyder RTL that got the VSS Fault code and went away and never came back after plugging the battery into a charger for the nite.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I was able to turn more easily before I changed the battery.:dontknow:

What battery did you install, and did you make sure it was fully charged before you took your Spyder for a spin? I'm thinking that maybe your battery doesn't provide the full amount of instantaneous current called for by the DPS, but adequate enough to not cause a DPS fault code.

 

[telespec]

Okay I will try the charging method and see what happens and let you all know and thanks for the help and info.