Where is the Starter & Solenoid on an F3?

[Haze]

Where can I find the starter connections My 2016 F3.
The manual shows a picture of the stater motor but not the location or how to access.

Is the motor and connection behind the battery box in the frunk?
Can I access these parts with the frunk bin removed or from under the Spyder?

The system usually cranks with an initial starter engagement and then a momentary "pause" and then cranks again to start.

I believe I may have a loose wiring connection at the stater or solenoid.


Thanks, Davis C.

 

[BertRemington]

Yep it will be a bit difficult to access: front left lower side of engine.

 

[Mikey]

Or a wonky switch!:dontknow: A lot of people with bad control problems.

 

[Shubb]

Where can I find the starter connections My 2016 F3.
The manual shows a picture of the stater motor but not the location or how to access.

Is the motor and connection behind the battery box in the frunk?
Can I access these parts with the frunk bin removed or from under the Spyder?

The system usually cranks with an initial starter engagement and then a momentary "pause" and then cranks again to start.

I believe I may have a loose wiring connection at the stater or solenoid.


Thanks, Davis C.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what the problem was... mine has the EXACT same symptoms, or had I should say, and now it will not crank at all! All the lights come on when the key is turned to on, no codes, battery fully charged, etc. Many thanks in advance for any light you can shine on this issue...

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what the problem was... mine has the EXACT same symptoms, or had I should say, and now it will not crank at all! All the lights come on when the key is turned to on, no codes, battery fully charged, etc. Many thanks in advance for any light you can shine on this issue...

Hey Shubb. What year F3? Well, answering that first question, the starter solenoid is down beside the battery on the left side of the bike. Left as you're sitting on it. You can get to it without removing the frunk, but it's really awkward. But, checking the tightness of the connections on the battery and solenoid is possible.

However, your problem, 99% of the time, is either the human or the battery. Let's address the human. Don't take it personal.

- Turn on the key and wait for the display and all the electronics to boot up.
- Even if you don't see the Safety Card Message, press the Mode button anyway.
- Even if you think you are in Neutral, put your foot on the brake pedal anyway.
- Look at the Kill Switch and make sure it's in RUN. Flip it a couple times to make sure.
- Hit the START button and see what happens. If no joy, then let's go to the battery.

You say the battery is fully charged. How do you know? How old is it? It's basic battery fundamentals that a sulfated battery will indicate a normal-ish terminal voltage at rest, and will appear to a non-smart charger to be fully charged. But, as soon as you hit it with a good load - like a starter motor - then the voltage drops like a rock. You and a friend can test that just by putting a voltmeter on the battery as you try to start the bike and see what happens.

Or, pull the thing out of there and get it load tested.

After that, we'll have to dive deeper into the start logic to see if you have any other problem, if you're convinced that it's not a battery problem. Good Luck.