2014 RT-S BRP trailer wiring advice/ or part number needed

[Windagetray]

I own a 2014 RT-S. I purchased an older (I was told 2013), used Can Am RT hitch. As I understand it, the mechanical part will work OK. Is that true?

The wiring harness with that older hitch has a 9-pin round connector. It wasn't a big deal at the purchase time because I COULD have ended up with an older trailer.

Next question is, WOULD that wiring harness hook into my 2014 RT-S wiring?

If it would, does Can Am make an adaptor from the 9-pin to the newer square 4-pin connector as....

...luck would have it, I found a good deal on a matching RT-622 which of course, has the newer connector.

Finally, If it is recommended NOT to use the old connector (9-pin with an adaptor) what is the part number(s) of the connector/harness I need to hook into my RT-S?

 

[finless]

Check out Big Bike Parts Trailer harness. It lets you do what you want.

I wish I had shot a video but I helped someone install this and really was easy.

http://store.valueaccessories.net/TrailerWiringHarnessSpyderRT.aspx

Bob

 

[Windagetray]

Thank you Bob. I checked it out but didn't see that this harness has the 4-pin square mate to the connector on the 2014 RT-622 trailer. Wouldn't I have to find one and splice it to the end of whatever this harness has for an end? Keep in mind....I also want to avoid warranty issues that using a non-BRP harness may cause.

 

[SpyderAnn01]

Make sure you get the correct 'grounding harness' for the trailer or you will blow out your trailer module. Something they did in 14 that doesn't play well with older trailers.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thank you Bob. I checked it out but didn't see that this harness has the 4-pin square mate to the connector on the 2014 RT-622 trailer. Wouldn't I have to find one and splice it to the end of whatever this harness has for an end? Keep in mind....I also want to avoid warranty issues that using a non-BRP harness may cause.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the harness with the 9 pin connector?

Windage, can you sketch out the wiring configuration for the harness? Does it have a module of some sort and if so how many wires go in and come out? The Can Am modules have been somewhat of a problem so I'm thinking you may be better off to just buy a new one. But, if you are handy with wiring I'm sure we can guide you on how to modify it and make it work.

It' more than just splicing a connector. The bike uses a 5 wire lighting system (L turn, R turn, brake, tail, ground) with separate left and right turn signals and the brake lights are connected together. The trailer uses a four wire system where the L/R turn signals are part of the brake lights (L turn/brake, R turn/brake, tail, ground). You need an adapter to morph the 5 wire into 4 wire.

As long as you do it properly, which means using a trailer wiring isolator, you won't have any warranty issues.

Now, how much of this makes sense to you? All of it, or none of it? If none then you need to find a trustworthy dealer or friend who can take care of this for you. It's not rocket science, but you do need to understand trailer wiring if you want to tackle it yourself.

 

[finless]

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the harness with the 9 pin connector?

I think this is what your looking for?

Bob

 

[billybovine]

What I would likely do is modify the harness you have. The most important part is the Y-harness that plugs into the Spyders main harness. That is if you have it? Scrap most of the rest of it. You will be able to get a powered isolation 5 to 4 converter at almost any auto parts store. Plus the 4 wire trailer plug to match the trailer and that's all the major parts you need. Maybe $30.

So this all depends on your skill level or of your friends that will work for beer.

Take some pictures of all the harness pieces you have and post them so I can tell if you got it all.

 

[Windagetray]

First, a HUGE thank you to all of you who are trying to help. I am an electronics tech by trade and handy when it comes to wiring so long as I know from where all wires come and to where all wires (should) go! I will get a picture and more information posted a bit later today or this evening. I should have said in the original post that the trailer I got is also a 2014. It is not an "older" trailer as a previous poster might have assumed. It is the trailer I could have bought at the same time I bought my RT-S in May of 2014. I am thinking it might be best to use the harness BRP intended instead of the older (my assumption) 9-pin connector/convertor. Hang tight until I can get a picture of what I have!

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I think this is what your looking for?

Bob

Looking at this it should be a piece of cake to cut the connector off and splice in a 5 to 4 wire adapter and a pigtail with a square four connector.

As Billy said, the Y part of the harness is the most valuable and usable part of the existing harness. For an idea of where we are headed with this look at what I did. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...-other-lights-Part-1&highlight=trailer+wiring. In my case I used a 6 wire to 5 wire isolator. The sixth wire is separate power from the battery.

 

[markyodo]

Finally, If it is recommended NOT to use the old connector (9-pin with an adaptor) what is the part number(s) of the connector/harness I need to hook into my RT-S?

I purchased the Hopkins Manufacturing 4 Pole Square Set. It cost me around $4 for both the male and female connectors.
I used a wire tester and the wire diagram to convert my trailer. I suppose you could do the same in reverse for the bike. It took me less than an hour to re-wire everything.

 

[Windagetray]

Update with pictures!

OK. I have read all of the posts. I do not want to change anything on or about the trailer. It is a totally stock, brand new, never been licensed, 0 mile, cognac color RT-622 trailer with a factory, SQUARE, 4-pin connector. I do not want to change it to a flat-4 nor a flat-5.

I am going to try and attach pictures of the harness I was given when I purchased the used hitch. I was told it was off a 2013 but after seeing the sticker on the round connector with a date of 2009, I suspect the hitch is a bit older than 2013. I'm not even sure the harness will even plug into anything on my 2014 machine. (If this harness is usable and someone makes a simple adaptor, I would use this if said adaptor didn't cost more that the hardware in question #2 below.)

That all being said, I think I am down to two questions:

1. Should I worry about the hitch itself working on my roadster?

2. What is the BRP part number(s) for the harness, modules, connectors, wires, kit, to install on my roadster into which I can plug the 4-pin square plug that is stock on my stock trailer?

Again thanks to everyone for their input!

 

[billybovine]

OK. I have read all of the posts. I do not want to change anything on or about the trailer. It is a totally stock, brand new, never been licensed, 0 mile, cognac color RT-622 trailer with a factory, SQUARE, 4-pin connector. I do not want to change it to a flat-4 nor a flat-5.

I am going to try and attach pictures of the harness I was given when I purchased the used hitch. I was told it was off a 2013 but after seeing the sticker on the round connector with a date of 2009, I suspect the hitch is a bit older than 2013. I'm not even sure the harness will even plug into anything on my 2014 machine. (If this harness is usable and someone makes a simple adaptor, I would use this if said adaptor didn't cost more that the hardware in question #2 below.)

That all being said, I think I am down to two questions:

1. Should I worry about the hitch itself working on my roadster?

2. What is the BRP part number(s) for the harness, modules, connectors, wires, kit, to install on my roadster into which I can plug the 4-pin square plug that is stock on my stock trailer?

Again thanks to everyone for their input!

1. The hitches are all the same. It will fit. I would be more concerned if something was missing.

2. I don't have the part numbers for the harness but your dealer could get them for you. Also i think waswinger had some of those part numbers. There are 3 parts and it would only be a guess they may cost you $250.00 or more. See in the pic the 3 parts that make the harness.

This is the harness i made for mine last winter.

You need to make the same thing but with the square plug. The harness you have would make a good start.

 

[Windagetray]

1. The hitches are all the same. It will fit. I would be more concerned if something was missing.

2. I don't have the part numbers for the harness but your dealer could get them for you. Also i think waswinger had some of those part numbers. There are 3 parts and it would only be a guess they may cost you $250.00 or more. See in the pic the 3 parts that make the harness.

This is the harness i made for mine last winter.

You need to make the same thing but with the square plug. The harness you have would make a good start.

OK....so the left side of your home built harness......are those the same connectors I am holding in my hand in my pictures? If so, from where did you get the isolator module you used? ...and lastly, where can I get the properly sexed square 4-pin connector to terminate with on the end of the harness.....that's GOT to be cheaper than $250!!!! Ouch!

 

[billybovine]

OK....so the left side of your home built harness......are those the same connectors I am holding in my hand in my pictures? If so, from where did you get the isolator module you used? ...and lastly, where can I get the properly sexed square 4-pin connector to terminate with on the end of the harness.....that's GOT to be cheaper than $250!!!! Ouch!

I am Thinking in Canadian dollars. probably closer to $200 US.

Here is a kit that will work. http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.c...t-converters/short_proof_power_converter.html There is a lot of extra stuff you don't need in the kit. Should be a bare module available too, but I just can't find it. Maybe someone else will chime in with a part number.

Notice anything familiar with Hopkins module and the one in BRP's kit.

 

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

OK....so the left side of your home built harness......are those the same connectors I am holding in my hand in my pictures? If so, from where did you get the isolator module you used? ...and lastly, where can I get the properly sexed square 4-pin connector to terminate with on the end of the harness.....that's GOT to be cheaper than $250!!!! Ouch!

It looks like it. To be sure remove the plastic cover under the seat at the left rear. If it's like the 2013 the bike harness connectors should be right there like you see in my picture in my thread linked above. The isolator/9 pin connector in the harness you got was designed to be fastened under the left saddle bag I think. You'll want to cut it off and toss it. And you're right, it is not a 2013 harness, it's a 2010 or 2011, maybe 2012.

What I would suggest is get this isolator harness http://www.etrailer.com/p-119179.html, or the one billybovine used, cut the isolator off the Y harness you have, and splice the new one on. Now you have a choice to make, cut the flat 4 off the new bike harness and splice on a square 4, or cut the square four off the trailer harness and splice on a flat four. If it were me I'd cut the square 4 off the trailer and use a flat 4. Why? Because the flat 4 is much more widely used and available. Plus, if my experience with a rectangle 6 is any indicator, the flat 4 will be much easier to connect and disconnect. And, when the male pins get corroded, which they will in time, it'll be easier to clean them off.

I have doubts you'll readily find an isolator with attached pigtail like the one above that has a square 4 on it. At least you find one a readily as the one above.

In the diagram of the 9 pin connector above I think the one noted position is most likely a direct feed from the ignition (+12v batt). That's the one that you would splice to the battery on the new isolator. All the others should be pretty clear to you. To be sure you'll probably want to test each wire with a meter or test lamp to determine the R turn, L turn, brake, tail, power, and ground. To figure out which is power vs tail pull the fuse in the right fuse box for the trailer module. Whichever one of the two stays hot is tail.

You getting this figured out now?

In case you're not familiar with the purpose of an isolator it is to power the trailer lights separately from the power to the bike lights. In case there is a short in the trailer wiring it will blow the power supply fuse and not affect the bike lights.

 

[Windagetray]

Now I know why almost every one of you who replied, suggested making everything a flat 4-pin connection! The local Spyder shop says BRP wants $429.00 for the "Y", isolator, and wiring harness from the isolator to the 4-pin square socket! YIKES!

I'm left with 2 choices:

1. Install the 9-pin harness I have and see if any one of you folks may have a 9-pin plug you cut off your trailer to make your conversion???

2. Install an after-market harness, isolator and flat 4-pin socket on the bike and a 4-pin plug on the trailer. If I choose this option, I've received a few aftermarket options. The first was the "Big Bike Parts Trailer Harness" and the second for the "Hopkins" kit.

Does anyone know if either of these or any other has the BRP connectors already on them or will I have to splice in the connectors from the "Y" harness I already have?

I think this is bringing us down to the end here so regardless of how this goes, thank you to you all again,

Mike

 

[finless]

Do yourself a favor... toss out the 9 pin harness. Buy the Big Bike parts harness. It is so much easier to wire than the BRP stuff.
I did it recently and it was a dream to install compared to the BRP stuff.

FYI the $429 to install is the old BRP 2010 trailer harness. BRP changed it later and it's about 1 hour now. BUT dealers don't get it and thus charge the full original labor costs of the old harness. I have heard this for the last 2 years now about people SHOCKED about the $400 to install the harness. Some dealers just do not know IT CHANGED FROM WAY BACK THEN and is a easier install!

Your mixing old and new harness convo's.

Bob

 

[Windagetray]

Do yourself a favor... toss out the 9 pin harness. Buy the Big Bike parts harness. It is so much easier to wire than the BRP stuff.
I did it recently and it was a dream to install compared to the BRP stuff.

FYI the $429 to install is the old BRP 2010 trailer harness. BRP changed it later and it's about 1 hour now. BUT dealers don't get it and thus charge the full original labor costs of the old harness. I have heard this for the last 2 years now about people SHOCKED about the $400 to install the harness. Some dealers just do not know IT CHANGED FROM WAY BACK THEN and is a easier install!

Your mixing old and new harness convo's.

Bob

I should clarify. For the $429.00.....NO installation was discussed! I was told that was the price to BUY the "Y" connectors, the isolator, and the harness to go from the isolator to the back of the bike! After paying the $429, I was going to have to install it myself.

Also, I looked at the Big Bike harness and it looks like it's pretty much ready to go with the BRP connectors already on it. Thanks for the advice!

 

[finless]

Too bad your on the other side of the states. I would help you get this done as it would be fun to do.

Bob

 

[billybovine]

Of course parts are expensive. If you wanted the complete harness you may as well have bought a whole new hitch kit for $510. That's complete with harness

The big bike parts harness is still a 5 wire so you still need a converter to go to 4, just not an isolation one.