This may have been discussed before, but I couldn't find anything. The auto downshift on my 2019, F3-S is irritating. It's okay down as far as 3rd gear, but changes down to 2nd and especially 1st when I don't want it to. Can anything be done about this in terms of blocking the last two downshifts? A gearbox that auto downshifted to 3rd, then not the bottom two gears would be perfect.
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The Auto Downshift is irritating for changes to 2nd & 1st - can anything be done to block those down-shifts?
- Thread starter XB12X
- Start date
Trying to pull away from a stop sign in 3rd would not be pretty. Saw this happen with a very experienced HD trike driver. Getting it restarted while in traffic is hectic. Of course he has a manual clutch. Quit using the auto downshift anyway. Keep your rpms up just in case you need to get away fast in an emergency! Easier on you brakes also.
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Woodaddict
Active member
Can't change auto downshifts, maybe only in BUDS. That means your letting bike downshift at the minimum RPM level. Only option is to use paddle shifter to downshift sooner, don't know if that is your intention
There's other threads on the Forum about this (even one just recently which suggested that the manual said you shouldn't be running around at any speed/in any gear that let your revs drop below 3500 rpm!
)That said, those 'Auto-Downshifts' weren't initially designed to make your life easier, they were included in the computer control of the Semi-automatic gearbox (which is actually still a 'manual gear box', just with some sexy computer controlled 'quick-shift' features grafted onto it; along with the computer controlled clutch, which is actually also still a 'manual clutch' tho, and NOT a torque converter like you'd find with a true auto gearbox!!) as 'fail-safe down-shifts' to protect your Spyder from incompetent or forgetful riders who couldn't change down in time/appropriately, which are triggered by the TCM to occur just above the minimum revs/speed/throttle/torque combination that would otherwise start causing some internal damage to your Spyder! Are you aware that back in the earlier years of Spyders, when the auto-downshift trigger wasn't set at revs that were quite so 'high' and many people did run around at lower revs, many discovered to their cost that real damage DOES occur because they'd been just putting along at low revs/less than about 3000 rpm on their Spyders when they shoukdn't have been!!
So really, while that auto downshift might be bothering you, it should actually be a learning experience, cos just like the Nanny/VSS et al telling you that you've pushed things too hard, those downshifts are the TCM/computers warning you that dropping your revs any lower in that gear at that speed WILL be damaging things; so as far as BRP is likely concerned, the 'auto-downshifts' set at that level ARE actually quite 'necessary' - well, at least until your warranty runs out anyway; when BRP will no longer have to pay to fix any damage you do; so then you can happily go ahead and destroy your Spyder's clutch &/or other components however you please, cos the necessary fixes will eventually be on your own dime!
Just Sayin'
BajaRon
Well-known member
What bikes did you do 300K on? That matters.
Yes, the 1300 ACE engine can run at less than 3,500 RPM. And it won't complain. But depending on how and when you do this, over time you will get clogged injectors and carbon buildup on your valves and pistons. (Top piston ring too if it gets really bad.)
We get bikes in with people plugging along at low RPM. Lots of carbon. We get people in that flog their Spyder every chance they get. Virtually no carbon buildup. Now you don't have to flog your Spyder to keep it clean. But lugging it will cost you in the long run. The problem is, the 1330 won't complain. So you think it's happy when it's not really.
I'd hazard a guess that none of those 2-wheeled motorcycles had the same clutch as your F3 tho; and they probably weren't quite the same in terms of their engine management systems either!
Still, like I said above, it's your Spyder, if you want to do things that others have already discovered to their cost can damage things, then that's your prerogative, go right ahead.
I'm very interested in this topic. When you say "lugging", what comes to mind for me is accelerating at low RPM. But does lugging also mean just tooling along at 35 - 40 mph at 2200 RPM on a level road? I've been doing this, but if that is harmful in the long run I'll stop.
Absolutely not. Just putzing along with low throttle settings at low RPM's is no problem at all. However high throttle settings at low RPM's is definitely 'Lugging an internal combustion gasoline engine'.
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