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What does this Tight spot in wheel rotation by hand mean? Any ideas or thoughts?

Revjames

Member
So it’s been a few weeks and a few hundred miles since the brake work discussed here:


I did put new EBC rotors and pads when I did the work. Today, I decided to jack up that right front, the side that had the problem piston before, just to spin the wheel by hand. I noticed there is one section that is tighter/harder to spin for a bit. I can still spin the wheel, but it definitely takes more effort in that one spot. Any ideas or thoughts?
 
So it’s been a few weeks and a few hundred miles since the brake work discussed here:


I did put new EBC rotors and pads when I did the work. Today, I decided to jack up that right front, the side that had the problem piston before, just to spin the wheel by hand. I noticed there is one section that is tighter/harder to spin for a bit. I can still spin the wheel, but it definitely takes more effort in that one spot. Any ideas or thoughts?
Pull the caliper and then turn the hub to check the bearings. And check for run out in the rotor. Maybe the rotor is not correctly seated on the hub?
 
There is a possibility the brake cylinders are not retracting all the way back into the bore. That might cause a tighter spot. You replaced the pads and rotors, but did not mention if you cleaned and checked the cylinder fit. The old, worn pads allowed the cylinder to push out farther and the stop point is now in a slightly different place. Full retraction point is also at a slightly different place. Slight wear or build-up could be keeping the pads from fully retracting. That could possibly cause a tight spot. A warped rotor could also cause a tight spot. Even new rotors can be warped slightly. Nothing is perfect. You can check the rotor by putting a dial indicator on the side of the rotor, setting it to zero, then turn the wheel and watch the indicator. It will be reading in thousandths, so just a slight amount would not be bad. Also, the rotors heat up and cool down. They may not read exactly the same at normal operating temperature, and the tight spot may not even be there at normal operating temperature.

While you've got it jacked up with the dial indicator on it, check for any excess end play in the wheel bearings.

Take it out and ride a ways, at least far enough to get everything up to normal operating temperature. Then check the disks and the hubs to see if there is any place they are unusually hot. Being warm is not unusual, but hot enough to make you move you hand off the metal would be unusual, unless you used the brakes a lot just before you checked, like coming down off a mountain.

If they are getting hot, you should look for the reason. If they are not getting hot check them again after a few thousand miles and see if the tight spot is still there.

This is nothing specific, but may give you some idea of where to look for the cause of the tight spot when you are trouble shooting it.

There is also a possibility that you might be able back the lugs off, re-tighten them using a torque wrench, and then, working around the bolt circle just a little bit tighter each time until you get all the lugs to the desired torque, and the tight spot might go away. It is a good possibility if somebody used an impact wrench to put the wheel back on.
 
I had one piston not retracting originally that led to the initial work, and did work a lot on cleaning it. I did use torque wrench reinstalling wheels. That being said, I will check the things you mentioned. Thanks for the detailed input!
 
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