CarPlay Froze, then entire Head Unit Froze Up While Riding, then supposedly updated and rebooted on the Highway - Anyone else had this happen?

[racoon]

I am running BRP Connect 4.1 using a Cardo PacTalk Edge communication system.

I've also installed the BRP Connect 4.1 update.

Google thinks the PacTalk Edge uses Bluetooth 5.2.

I'm using a SENA 3S PLUSS Boom Microphone Kit that uses Bluetooth 5.1.

In what order do you connect your devices? What is the brand of your cable? Do you ride solo or with a passenger who utilizes the connection?

I turn the Spyder on and roll the throttle forward, then plug the cable into the phone, and then into the Spyder.
I then power on the headset.
My Honda Ridgeline truck is also a bit picky about the connection sequence. It doesn't recognize that the iPhone is connected unless I wait to plug the cable in until after the engine is running.

I tested several different Apple cables, and a Belkin cable, and ended up finding two Apple lightning cables that worked with my iPhone SE 2nd Gen.

But I also realized while writing this that I recently upgraded to a new iPhone 16e, which uses a USB C connector, not the older lightning connector.
And I don't remember whether I've gone for a ride with the new phone, and there wasn't a cable in the glove box on the Spyder when I checked just now, so I may have to go through testing cables again. :::sigh:::

It's supposed to be cool and dry tomorrow, so I think I need to go for a ride.

 

[WRCLVR]

Well yesterday, I updated the 2024 S2S over WIFI. It was easy to connect and download. The Bike was running and on my Battery Tender the whole time. So once the system booted and while the bike was running I tested the screen and reverse camera functions. Everything worked... yah, nope! I shut the bike off and went to other settings and WIFI sittings to ensure connectivity. Yes still there; nope won't connect to the WIFI any more. So I deleted and rebuilt the WIFI setting. Nope, it still won't find the WIFI! What absolute crap!!

 

[Toyandgadgetguy]

Ok, first time poster. I'm here because I've been having the same ongoing issues.

I have a 2024 RT Limited, an iPhone 13, and the Sena 50C headset. ALL with updated software (I'm getting the iPhone 17 when they are back in stock). And I'm having a series of the same issues.

Bluetooth will connect. Bluetooth won't connect. Sometimes it all works fine, other times I need to restart the Spyder 3 times to get CarPlay to engage before I can begin my ride. I've had the screen freeze on the GPS, showing me frozen in my starting location. I've had my head unit start to flash and then reset; I've had my speakers stop working; I've had my radio suddenly go static-y on all stations. All at different times. Always requiring me to stop to restart the system (sometimes on a highway). I like to take out of the way, unknown routes, but when the GPS won't connect, I'm lost in the middle of nowhere and have to unplug the phone just to see the GPS on the phone screen on the handlebar, losing Sirius radio and phone answering in the deal.

Oh, one more thing. I've always had problems answering the phone using the Spyder. At the best of times, there is a 3-5 second delay from when I speak to when the other person hears me, and vice versa. Lately, when my wife calls me, I can answer, but either she can't hear me or I can't hear her. That has been ongoing right from new. I listen to YouTube while I commute, and I also notice that the sync is off by a few seconds (the lips don't match the sound) which isn't really a problem because I'm not watching the video; but when answering the phone, that IS a problem, since I can't use my communication device to communicate. The sound was perfect before I owned the Spyder, when the headset was directly connected to the phone, but now that it loops through the Spyder's CarPlay, there is a delay in sound.

Oh again. I've also lost sound AFTER I receive a phone call. Whatever I was listening to is now muted (music, youtube, etc). I don't remember if I have to stop the bike and restart after that, or how I get sound working again, but I think I had to stop the bike to get sound working again.

The dealer updated the software, but that didn't help. I might have made it worse, as I went on a 3000 km road trip up North and had numerous issues throughout the trip.

I plan on bringing it back to the dealer for my second oil change and for them to fix this, but since Can Am themselves don't know how to fix it, my dealer won't either.

So, I've tried various ways and none of them seem to be the resolution. Sometimes I turn my headset on first; sometimes, the bike first, then wait for the phone to connect, then plug the cord in, then the headset; sometimes I turn on the headset last; sometimes I connect the cord first, then the bike, then wait for the phone, then the headset... I've tried all sorts of combinations, but none have been the silver bullet!

Every one of these issues, exactly this way. Every single start up of of the Spyder is a crapshoot with Carplay. 2024 RT Limited. iPhone 13 Pro Max. Works fine in my vehicle, my wife's vehicle, my last vehicle, and a bunch of the work vehicles. The only vehicle that gives me grief is the Spyder. Aftermarket cord, Apple cord... doesn't matter. The only difference is that I use a brand new Packtalk Edge (because the Bold doesn't hold a charge as long as the Edge).
Sometimes it connects, sometimes it doesn't. Restart the machine once, twice, three or more times... eventually it works like it should. When it works, it's a beautiful thing. If I can get it right the first time, there's a 50/50 chance of it freezing up along the way. I ride it every day unless it rains or snows. Work, club rides, to and from everywhere. Every single time is a crapshoot. Do you know how hard it is to ride with crossed fingers? Not an inexpensive machine for this type of reliability. One of the factors for switching from my older machine to the newer one was the excitement of not having a bunch of devices bracketed to the handlebars.

 

[jcthorne]

Every one of these issues, exactly this way. Every single start up of of the Spyder is a crapshoot with Carplay. 2024 RT Limited. iPhone 13 Pro Max. Works fine in my vehicle, my wife's vehicle, my last vehicle, and a bunch of the work vehicles. The only vehicle that gives me grief is the Spyder. Aftermarket cord, Apple cord... doesn't matter. The only difference is that I use a brand new Packtalk Edge (because the Bold doesn't hold a charge as long as the Edge).
Sometimes it connects, sometimes it doesn't. Restart the machine once, twice, three or more times... eventually it works like it should. When it works, it's a beautiful thing. If I can get it right the first time, there's a 50/50 chance of it freezing up along the way. I ride it every day unless it rains or snows. Work, club rides, to and from everywhere. Every single time is a crapshoot. Do you know how hard it is to ride with crossed fingers? Not an inexpensive machine for this type of reliability. One of the factors for switching from my older machine to the newer one was the excitement of not having a bunch of devices bracketed to the handlebars.

Start up in this order:

Boot up your Bluetooth headset
Turn on the bike ignition and let the cluster boot up. Watch for the connected message for the headset on the instrument cluster.
Only after the bluetooth is connected and working, THEN plug in your phone for Carplay.

 

[Toyandgadgetguy]

Start up in this order:

Boot up your Bluetooth headset
Turn on the bike ignition and let the cluster boot up. Watch for the connected message for the headset on the instrument cluster.
Only after the bluetooth is connected and working, THEN plug in your phone for Carplay.

Rained today. I will give this a go tomorrow, Saturday, and Sunday, and let you know. Headset, ignition boot up, connect phone. Got it.

 

[knklehd1]

I have tried every possible way you could imagine and it just doesn't work. I have a Sena helmet 5.2 bluetooth, iPhone16 Pro top of the line cable, and each device has the latest updates. I can only get it to work properly maybe three out of ten times. What I have done is purchased a power only cable for my phone and I use my headset, iPhone16 and XT2, all working perfectly! So for me, I just bypassed the bike and all is good! If it can work 100% in our other vehicles, then it should work on our Spyders for the money we paid. I will still try and play with it from time to time, I'm just not putting much stock in it.

 

[racoon]

I have tried every possible way you could imagine and it just doesn't work. I have a Sena helmet 5.2 bluetooth, iPhone16 Pro top of the line cable, and each device has the latest updates. I can only get it to work properly maybe three out of ten times. What I have done is purchased a power only cable for my phone and I use my headset, iPhone16 and XT2, all working perfectly! So for me, I just bypassed the bike and all is good! If it can work 100% in our other vehicles, then it should work on our Spyders for the money we paid. I will still try and play with it from time to time, I'm just not putting much stock in it.

I have an iPhone 16e, which recently replaced an iPhone SE 2nd Gen.
I have a Sena 3S Plus headset in my helmet, which uses bluetooth 5.1.

I had some issues in the past where sometimes things would connect and sometimes they would not.
I haven't had any issues since the BRP Connect 4.1 software update to my Spyder...

Well, I did have one location I rode to that was in a valley, and I couldn't get a cell phone signal, which of course meant Apple CarPlay navigation wouldn't work. Once I rode out of that valley, it connected up and worked.

 

[Gwolf]

Which would be the worst case scenario, a new stereo that you can't ride to the mountains, or a Spyder riding through the mountains with no music?

 

[amkrat]

Which would be the worst case scenario, a new stereo that you can't ride to the mountains, or a Spyder riding through the mountains with no music?

A couple of different sequences cited here for getting Apple CarPlay up and running. I've used them both with generally good results. Still an occasional freeze up though.

I have not read about anyone's sequence for starting back up after say, a stop for gas or donuts and coffee. Do you turn off your headset and unplug your iPhone along with the ignition so that you can repeat your original startup sequence? I have been just turning off the ignition. Then when I'm ready to go again after starting up, everything connects, but I have experienced more freeze ups when doing this. I don't really want to turn my headset off because then I would have to reconnect the intercom with my riding partner.

Finally, has anyone tried just hitting the kill switch and leaving the ignition on when stopping for gas? ACP would remain connected and you wouldn't have to go through the reconnecting ordeal. I remember trying that on my Harley TriGlide and it messed with the miles to empty numbers. I would probably expect something similar here though it wouldn't be a big deal to me if that's all it did.

 

[Gwolf]

A couple of different sequences cited here for getting Apple CarPlay up and running. I've used them both with generally good results. Still an occasional freeze up though.

I have not read about anyone's sequence for starting back up after say, a stop for gas or donuts and coffee. Do you turn off your headset and unplug your iPhone along with the ignition so that you can repeat your original startup sequence? I have been just turning off the ignition. Then when I'm ready to go again after starting up, everything connects, but I have experienced more freeze ups when doing this. I don't really want to turn my headset off because then I would have to reconnect the intercom with my riding partner.

Finally, has anyone tried just hitting the kill switch and leaving the ignition on when stopping for gas? ACP would remain connected and you wouldn't have to go through the reconnecting ordeal. I remember trying that on my Harley TriGlide and it messed with the miles to empty numbers. I would probably expect something similar here though it wouldn't be a big deal to me if that's all it did.

Sorry, don't know, my F3-S came without all that. I got a full face helmet with built in bluetooth, and a little bluetooth 5.0 MP3 player (shirt pocket size) with built in AM/FM radio. It reconnects when you walk back into range, or you can just leave the helmet on the Spyder and it will stay connected while you are gone. Just turn the volume down and nobody will know the helmet hanging on the end of the grab rail is playing tunes.

 

[amkrat]

Sorry, don't know, my F3-S came without all that. I got a full face helmet with built in bluetooth, and a little bluetooth 5.0 MP3 player (shirt pocket size) with built in AM/FM radio. It reconnects when you walk back into range, or you can just leave the helmet on the Spyder and it will stay connected while you are gone. Just turn the volume down and nobody will know the helmet hanging on the end of the grab rail is playing tunes.

You've just shown us that life can be so much simpler.

 

[Gwolf]

You've just shown us that life can be so much simpler.