Did My First Oil Change Today

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

Did my first oil change today and it was interesting. Taking the tupperware of wasn't that bad. Took about a half hour. The mirror was the worst part. Like everyone has said, you think you broke it when it comes off. Then as I have read in lots of posts, the drain plugs were stripped by whoever changed the oil last. Tried the hammer and chisel method, along with vise grips but nothing would budge em. Im guessing they tightened the plugs up using a sledgehammer. Ended up removing the large bolt on the front of the oil tank to drain that oil and then just taking the filter out to drain the engine oil. Doing it this way left about a quartof oil still in it, but the oil looked good so I am not worried. Next oil change will be done by a mechanic and they can get the bolts out and change them to hex bolts. If it wasn't for that, I probably would have been done in an hour and a half. Thanks to everyone who posted about their experiences because I learned a lot reading those older posts. Gave me confidence to do it myself.

:thumbup:

 

[CanAmChris]

Did my first oil change today and it was interesting. Taking the tupperware of wasn't that bad. Took about a half hour. The mirror was the worst part. Like everyone has said, you think you broke it when it comes off. Then as I have read in lots of posts, the drain plugs were stripped by whoever changed the oil last. Tried the hammer and chisel method, along with vise grips but nothing would budge em. Im guessing they tightened the plugs up using a sledgehammer. Ended up removing the large bolt on the front of the oil tank to drain that oil and then just taking the filter out to drain the engine oil. Doing it this way left about a quartof oil still in it, but the oil looked good so I am not worried. Next oil change will be done by a mechanic and they can get the bolts out and change them to hex bolts. If it wasn't for that, I probably would have been done in an hour and a half. Thanks to everyone who posted about their experiences because I learned a lot reading those older posts. Gave me confidence to do it myself.

:thumbup:

have yet to change the oil on the F3 yet but the third time I changed the oil on the 2010 RSS I stripped out the aluminum trans housing with the steel bolts for the filter.

After $800.00 for a new trans housing... I just leave it to the guys at the dealer. I ride in, get a cup of coffee and watch some TV. Thirty minutes later I ride away. Worth every penny.

 

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

I have always changed my own oil. Takes 30 minutes to do my wifes van and my truck. Im not a wrench but I enjoy doing everything I can. Get a great sense of satisfaction from that. But man, those drain plugs are crap! Next one though, goes to the dealer.

 

[CANUCK SPYDER]

Did my first oil change today and it was interesting. Taking the tupperware of wasn't that bad. Took about a half hour. The mirror was the worst part. Like everyone has said, you think you broke it when it comes off. Then as I have read in lots of posts, the drain plugs were stripped by whoever changed the oil last. Tried the hammer and chisel method, along with vise grips but nothing would budge em. Im guessing they tightened the plugs up using a sledgehammer. Ended up removing the large bolt on the front of the oil tank to drain that oil and then just taking the filter out to drain the engine oil. Doing it this way left about a quartof oil still in it, but the oil looked good so I am not worried. Next oil change will be done by a mechanic and they can get the bolts out and change them to hex bolts. If it wasn't for that, I probably would have been done in an hour and a half. Thanks to everyone who posted about their experiences because I learned a lot reading those older posts. Gave me confidence to do it myself.

:thumbup:

I had the dealer change my oil once and was the last time, was expensive but knew I could do it myself. But I ordered new plugs for the oil drains think they are called "Gold plugs" and have hex heads and strong magnets. Quite sure I got wind of them from this forum. Cant recall but think they were just over $40 delivered I'm up In Canada tho so sure be cheaper if in the U.S D

 

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

I will be checking these out, thats for sure

 

[CANUCK SPYDER]

I will be checking these out, thats for sure

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Can-Am-Spyde...Protection-MP01-MP02-Engine-Set-/350929839144

 

[Magdave]

I did my first 998 oil change last week. Only pulled the lower pan and the removable black side panel. No Tupperware removal needed. I installed Goldplugs at the same time but using my broken 3/8 torque wrench as a breaker bar, and 6mm socket a quick slap, loosened the OEM plugs. they were a bit sticky and gave a little snap sound. 17mm socket will be used on the new plugs next time.:thumbup: I must recommend you seat the engine filter into the cap very well as you must push it up near the drive sprocket to get the filter to the hole and slide it down and in from there it will "click" into the cap, The SE5 tranny filter was easy and no hole was needed to be drilled using a long socket extension and 5mm socket. The plastic frame will move enough to get the bolts once the lower under engine panel bolt is pulled out. Stuff an old towel around the tranny filter to avoid extra time cleaning the fins out. Really wasn't has hard as I though. Getting the right torque by feel I used tight + 1/4 turn. Took it for a ride with all panels off for about 10 min, had a little seep around the engine filter cover and gave it a small twist more.

 

[BajaRon]

have yet to change the oil on the F3 yet but the third time I changed the oil on the 2010 RSS I stripped out the aluminum trans housing with the steel bolts for the filter.

After $800.00 for a new trans housing... I just leave it to the guys at the dealer. I ride in, get a cup of coffee and watch some TV. Thirty minutes later I ride away. Worth every penny.

Not sure what your particular issue was. But it is not uncommon for people to put one screw in and tighten it down, then attempt to install and tighten the other screw. Or, put both screws in but tighten one at a time. This is usually how these screws get stripped. If you're lucky, you just get a big oil leak when you start the engine doing it this way

It is very important to tighten each oil filter cap screw a little at a time. The screws do not need to be all that tight because the O-Ring does the sealing. But it is important to get equal pressure around the circumference of the O-Ring. And this is easily done. You just need to tighten both screws evenly. The only way to do this is to snug each of them a bit at a time so you get uniform pressure on the O-Ring.

Some like to use a torque wrench on these tiny little screws. And theoretically, that's the best way to do it. But in practice, I've found that torquing small screws with a torque wrench can be a bad idea unless you know what you're doing and you know your wrench is calibrated correctly.

I prefer a short armed tool and going by feel. I suppose some experience helps no matter what. But with a short arm and small leverage, it is very unlikely that you'll ever strip a bolt.

 

[JerryB]

Hi Bam Bam and Pebbles

Re: along with vise grips but nothing would budge em.

An auto magazine I get had a quick fix to remove things like this. It said to put a sheetrock screw up against the bolt head/nut then grab everything with vicegrips. The sheetrock screw will dig into the bolt head/nut and you should be able to get things moving.

Won't hurt to try it.

Jerry Baumchen

 

[Chupaca]

Bummer..!!

:agree: glad you diy even with that drain plug problem. Good idea to have the next one done where they can get those out. Get the gold plugs ahead of time and have them install them. That way you can do a full change yourself.

 

[Highwayman2013]

A tool called an "easy out" in the proper size would do the trick.http://www.sears.com/craftsman-5-pc...p-00966202000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3

 

[sandeejs]

So you are able to reach every thing - change the filter etc - with much of the plastic in place?
~Sandee~

Only pulled the lower pan and the removable black side panel. No Tupperware removal needed.

 

[Magdave]

So you are able to reach every thing - change the filter etc - with much of the plastic in place?
~Sandee~

Yep with either long T-bar allens or sockets and long extension. I did drive it on to ramps and lift the rear up to get an oil pan under it all as well as pop the 2 push pins on the center frame and remove the floor panel bolt ( that comes off after the black deflector). No painted Tupperware removal is needed (except oil fill cover that pops off). :thumbup: There is 1 torx screw on the black deflector that needs to come off.

 

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

Hi Bam Bam and Pebbles

Re: along with vise grips but nothing would budge em.

An auto magazine I get had a quick fix to remove things like this. It said to put a sheetrock screw up against the bolt head/nut then grab everything with vicegrips. The sheetrock screw will dig into the bolt head/nut and you should be able to get things moving.

Won't hurt to try it.

Jerry Baumchen

When using the Vise Grips, I had them so tight that they were digging into the side of the drain bolts, and then hammering the VG's. The VG's didn't move or slip, and of course either did the drain bolts. I didn't know that Ahhhnold worked at a Can Am dealership. Times must be getting tough. And I know this question will come up...I was turning them in the correct direction.

 

[BajaRon]

When using the Vise Grips, I had them so tight that they were digging into the side of the drain bolts, and then hammering the VG's. The VG's didn't move or slip, and of course either did the drain bolts. I didn't know that Ahhhnold worked at a Can Am dealership. Times must be getting tough. And I know this question will come up...I was turning them in the correct direction.

Maybe you're working on a case casting! :yikes:

 

[Bam Bam and Pebbles]

Maybe you're working on a case casting! :yikes:

Nope. Triple checked that.

 

[AY4B]

Great thread Guys, Ill have to save it for when I tackle my first oil change, but it probably needs to be moved to Shop talk So I can find it.

 

[missouriboy]

... I just leave it to the guys at the dealer. I ride in, get a cup of coffee and watch some TV. Thirty minutes later I ride away. Worth every penny.

Same here. My arthritic hands don't get along with tools very well any more. Heck, I couldn't even drive much more than 10 miles without the cruise control to relax my hand.

My dealer takes much more than 30 minutes though... about an hour, total cost $171. But that includes checking everything, belt tension, brakes, tire pressure, etc., and then includes a nice wash job.
And I do it on Saturdays, when they provide a free hot lunch! :clap: