2012 RT occasionally Stalling, no codes, just stalls! Any ideas? And what do you get for Gas Milage?

[Firstresponder25]

Couple of quick questions:

Had the bike (2012 RT SE5 Limited) stall a couple of times in the last two days, no codes, no sputtering, first time, turned in the driveway and it stalled. Had it happen this afternoon at a stop light, just stalled with no warning, starts right back up but really strange. Will say I have bought gas at a new place the last two days.

Second question is, what is everyone getting for gas milage, it feels like my bike chews through gas like crazy, maybe I am just used to my old two wheeled Honda but this seems like its really bad on gas.

Thanks

 

[Bfromla]

Unfortunately, Couple of possibilities with older V-twin. Also unfortunately not optimum mpg & many variables full range of 20’s give or take. Any smell of gas when stopped? If so possibly overfilled tank & evap system has some fuel in charcoal canister messing up many things. Search vacuum lines & map sensor - also help stalls. If possible have next tank ethanol free & add some injection cleaner/octane booster. Siphoning tank not ez & plenty already in the lines, might as well just use. Others will chime in.

 

[Firstresponder25]

Unfortunately, Couple of possibilities with older V-twin. Also unfortunately not optimum mpg & many variables full range of 20’s give or take. Any smell of gas when stopped? If so possibly overfilled tank & evap system has some fuel in charcoal canister messing up many things. Search vacuum lines & map sensor - also help stalls. If possible have next tank ethanol free & add some injection cleaner/octane booster. Siphoning tank not ez & plenty already in the lines, might as well just use. Others will chime in.

Great, thanks!

 

[BajaRon]

Rubber components on the throttle body deteriorate and can allow air to enter. There are 2, small, short, vacuum hoses on the left side of the throttle body that need to be replaced. At this age, the rubber boots that attach the throttle body to the intake ports also go bad.

You don't say how many miles you have on the Spyder. But running a few loads of Techroline / Techron through the gas tank could free up your injectors, if that is contributing to the issue. Spark plug wires and plugs may also be a good idea. And performing a canister-ectomy and the crankcase vent mod are highly recommended.

Finally, be sure you are not lugging the engine. The V-Twin likes to rev. The bottom of the power band is 5,500 RPM. You don't need to be there all the time. But if you want to accellerate with authority, drop gears until you're at least above 5k.

Anything below 3,500 RPM runs the risk of slipping the clutch. This is something that you want to avoid.

 

[Firstresponder25]

Rubber components on the throttle body deteriorate and can allow air to enter. There are 2, small, short, vacuum hoses on the left side of the throttle body that need to be replaced. At this age, the rubber boots that attach the throttle body to the intake ports also go bad.

You don't say how many miles you have on the Spyder. But running a few loads of Techroline / Techron through the gas tank could free up your injectors, if that is contributing to the issue. Spark plug wires and plugs may also be a good idea. And performing a canister-ectomy and the crankcase vent mod are highly recommended.

Finally, be sure you are not lugging the engine. The V-Twin likes to rev. The bottom of the power band is 5,500 RPM. You don't need to be there all the time. But if you want to accellerate with authority, drop gears until you're at least above 5k.

Anything below 3,500 RPM runs the risk of slipping the clutch. This is something that you want to avoid.

Awesome, thank you!!

 

[Firstresponder25]

Sorry for the constant question but a couple more. When I shut down the engine, I hear this high pitched whine sound, any ideas?
What should the operating temperature be at, the gauge always seems to be between hot and cold?
And lastly, where do I find the coolant level on a 2012 RT??