After some True Can-Am insight - will I be making a huge mistake buying the RTL or F3?

[Bubby-D]

I went and test drove the 2020 RTL that I had mentioned and found a monkey wrench in the process. The bike does not auto downshift. I was cruising at 55 mph in 6th and when I started to brake, I noticed the bike was still in 6th but I was at 40 mph. I hit the brake again, got to 30, and the bike finally started to downshift. I turned around and started back to the shop. I go up to 60 mph, in 6th, hit the brake, and dropped it down to 45, and it was still in 6th. I had to resort to manually downshifting. I've been reading where this is a common problem with the RTL and that some of the solutions are to check the oil level and/or old oil, check battery connections, to a faulty left-hand control module, bad reverse actuator, or bad ECM. Not sure if I want to continue with this buy.

 

[Dusterdude]

If you can afford the RTL, buy it!

 

[Rdrnr]

It will downshift @ 2000rpm approximately

 

[blacklightning]

I went and test drove the 2020 RTL that I had mentioned and found a monkey wrench in the process. The bike does not auto downshift. I was cruising at 55 mph in 6th and when I started to brake, I noticed the bike was still in 6th but I was at 40 mph. I hit the brake again, got to 30, and the bike finally started to downshift. I turned around and started back to the shop. I go up to 60 mph, in 6th, hit the brake, and dropped it down to 45, and it was still in 6th. I had to resort to manually downshifting. I've been reading where this is a common problem with the RTL and that some of the solutions are to check the oil level and/or old oil, check battery connections, to a faulty left-hand control module, bad reverse actuator, or bad ECM. Not sure if I want to continue with this buy.

Dropping speed down to 45 will not result in it downshifting from 6th. With it downshifting at 30, that actually sounds about right. I am not certain, but I have been to 45 and in 6th gear many times. This does not sound like a problem. Test ride another and see if you get the same or similar results.

 

[weeneil]

Ok so a quick update. I am going tomorrow (9/26) to look at and test ride a 2020 RTL Chalk Metallic - Dark Edition
with 7,294 miles and list for $19,084 out the door with tax, title, etc. Hope if all goes well, it'll be coming home with me. Once again thank you everyone for you much valued and appreciated comments, insights, and guidance. Will let yinz know when I get home how it went.

A year ago we went to try out the trikes. The F3S was deemed "a hooligan bike" by my wife; after that, we tested the RT, and they are totally different. We bought the RT and like it so much we have sold our 2 wheeler 2 weeks ago because we only used it for 60 miles in the past year! Whatever you end up with, I hope you enjoy the transition as much as we do, happy spydering.

 

[Bubby-D]

One last update. I pulled the trigger and I'll be picking up the 2020 RTL this coming week. It has some add-ons that I didn't see when I first saw the bike pix. Top box luggage rack, 2 water bottle holder (not going to be able to get anything bigger in them than 12oz plastic water bottles), rear passenger armrests, a Akrapovič Sport Touring 3C silencer muffler, and front auxiliary light. The only thing that I'm baffled about, is that the previous owner had a Garmin Zumo GPS, and when they traded it in, they left the mount for the unit, and it's still attached and wired in. Any who, here's to getting my knees in the breeze.

 

[racoon]

Interesting that they left the Garmin mount, since the 2020's didn't come with a GPS from CAN-AM.
The 2018's did have a Garmin GPS option from CAN-AM.

I will say that when I first got my 2024 Spyder I "hardwired" a Garmin GPS mount to the accessory power port. That required removing several of the plastic panels to route the wires to the user accessory power port near the right front tire.

 

[Bubby-D]

They did leave the mount, and it's hardwired to the bike. Not sure why, and the dealer said the former owner took the head unit with them.

 

[old Timer]

Nice looking Spyder.

 

[Knizar]

They did leave the mount, and it's hardwired to the bike. Not sure why, and the dealer said the former owner took the head unit with them.

View attachment 251774

Buddy, I believe you have a seat up-grade also. I have a 2020 RTL, and that isn't the OEM seat that I have.

 

[Bubby-D]

Buddy, I believe you have a seat up-grade also. I have a 2020 RTL, and that isn't the OEM seat that I have.

I believe you're right. I didn't even notice. I'll investigate this further. Thank you for pointing that out.

 

[Bubby-D]

I believe you're right. I didn't even notice. I'll investigate this further. Thank you for pointing that out.

Just an update on the seat. It is the Can-Am heated comfort seat. I did confirm that all of the additional add-ons are directly from BRP.

 

[jcthorne]

I went and test drove the 2020 RTL that I had mentioned and found a monkey wrench in the process. The bike does not auto downshift. I was cruising at 55 mph in 6th and when I started to brake, I noticed the bike was still in 6th but I was at 40 mph. I hit the brake again, got to 30, and the bike finally started to downshift. I turned around and started back to the shop. I go up to 60 mph, in 6th, hit the brake, and dropped it down to 45, and it was still in 6th. I had to resort to manually downshifting. I've been reading where this is a common problem with the RTL and that some of the solutions are to check the oil level and/or old oil, check battery connections, to a faulty left-hand control module, bad reverse actuator, or bad ECM. Not sure if I want to continue with this buy.

There was nothing wrong with the bike. Spyders only downshift when required due to lower than minimum RPM, but ITS NOT AUTOMATIC for normal driving range. Only when stopping. You need to shift up and down for proper RPM as you drive.

 

[Little Blue]

Well I don't know about the down shift control on the 2020 RTL.
My 2016 RTL will down shift to 5th in the 60mph to the 45mph zone.
Just wanted people to know.

I can't believe that the 2020 RTL is not.
Hope someone can help about this issue.

 

[BobAnth1]

I have just traded my Harley RG 3 for the a 2024 Spyder RT-L, that Harley was the worst riding Harley I've owned. The Harley's suspension just beats the hell out of the rider, I spent over $2k on different shocks with none of them making it enjoyable to ride on, unless the road was perfectly smooth. I read all of the reviews about which shock was the best, and I'll tell you they all must have drunk the "koolaid". This has been the 2nd Spyder I have owned.

The HOG mentality clouds the common sense; The Harley Tri-glide is a death trap with that cheap solid axle design. And you will need a good service support network for any Harley. Learn to change your oil/filter every 5-6k miles on the Can-Am and air filter. I noticed the oil was stressed at 6k miles (higher RPM motors do that) when I bought it and changed the oil myself. I use synthetic oil in all my bikes.

 

[Bob from Florida]

Just went from a normal 2018 Goldwing Tour DCT to a 2024 Spyder RT Limited. Close to 600 miles and have had the engine in the powerband a few times, much better get up and go there. The Wing’s engine has 100 ft-lbs of torque anywhere above maybe 1200 RPM, revving not required for serious get up and go. Two up riding is way better on the Spyder, while the Wing is faster in curves and everywhere. That opinion may modify some as I become more accustomed to the Spyder. I am working through some warranty issues on the Spyder - the worst is the loud whine between 45 and 50 MPH - they have already replaced the belt without resolving. Have not done any DIY service yet, so no comments as of yet. Goldwings have some “issues”. My DCT would take off on its own until I discovered the previous owner have not tightened the battery connections when he added the battery tender wiring. Without a stable reference voltage, the drive by wire can decide to apply throttle unexpectedly while in Drive at a stop - unsettling to say the least. Multiple NHSTA complaints on this issue. Since replacing the battery and tightening connections, no further occurrence. Maintenance is labor intensive, replacing the air filter is a 4 hour job first time you do it. Honda apparently built the bike around the air filter! The starter and generator are one assembly and the part is $2800 plus labor. Valve clearances are every 24K and the unicam heads have screw adjustable exhaust and bucket - shim for intake. Cam removal required for intake clearances. Silver lining here is with the flat 6 engine, getting at the valves is not so bad. The Wing is brilliant when working correctly, but will cost you in service even if doing it yourself. Something to be aware of.

 

[Rdrnr]

Just went from a normal 2018 Goldwing Tour DCT to a 2024 Spyder RT Limited. Close to 600 miles and have had the engine in the powerband a few times, much better get up and go there. The Wing’s engine has 100 ft-lbs of torque anywhere above maybe 1200 RPM, revving not required for serious get up and go. Two up riding is way better on the Spyder, while the Wing is faster in curves and everywhere. That opinion may modify some as I become more accustomed to the Spyder. I am working through some warranty issues on the Spyder - the worst is the loud whine between 45 and 50 MPH - they have already replaced the belt without resolving. Have not done any DIY service yet, so no comments as of yet. Goldwings have some “issues”. My DCT would take off on its own until I discovered the previous owner have not tightened the battery connections when he added the battery tender wiring. Without a stable reference voltage, the drive by wire can decide to apply throttle unexpectedly while in Drive at a stop - unsettling to say the least. Multiple NHSTA complaints on this issue. Since replacing the battery and tightening connections, no further occurrence. Maintenance is labor intensive, replacing the air filter is a 4 hour job first time you do it. Honda apparently built the bike around the air filter! The starter and generator are one assembly and the part is $2800 plus labor. Valve clearances are every 24K and the unicam heads have screw adjustable exhaust and bucket - shim for intake. Cam removal required for intake clearances. Silver lining here is with the flat 6 engine, getting at the valves is not so bad. The Wing is brilliant when working correctly, but will cost you in service even if doing it yourself. Something to be aware of.

Dam, I really want a DCT Wing.

 

[Bob from Florida]

Dam I really want a DCT Wing.

It’s a brilliant bike with some expensive maintenance down the road. If you really want one, just be aware of what you’re getting into. Slow speed maneuvers requires “trail braking” with the rear brake and selecting “eco” mode for mild throttle response for tight circles and figure 8’s. The new NT1100 DCT - based on the Africa Twin engine - is supposed to have much better low speed control and is less than half the price of a new Wing fully equipped with luggage. Should also be cheaper to service by a lot.

https://powersports.honda.com/motorcycle/touring/nt1100

 

[Rdrnr]

Thanks for the insight. It’s just a pipe dream, and my wife would probably kill me if I came home with one. I am used to the rear brake for slow speed maneuvering. I went from a couple of HD touring bikes to my 2021 RTL Spyder.