Can anyone with a Big Blue Lift provide advice on my lifting issues?

[Peter Aawen]

From the pics in your posts # 37 & 38, you might need to re-think using the 18cm mark that you're lining the left edge of that channel up with in post #29, and move it whichever way/however far it needs to let the BB' s rear shock lifting saddle line up under the rear shock itself, and leave more room for the brake pedal etc. on the other side of BB's vertical main lifting spar...

Quite possibly, it'd all be a lot easier for you if you used a bit of solvent to wipe off ALL the blue marks on BB and then, instead of trying to 'force-match' the BB Brackets to those marks and the appropriate points on the underside of your Spyder, you left all the nuts/U-bolts etc. on the BB channels & bracketry etc. juuust a little loose until you've actually matched the lifting points with the underside of your Spyder; and then once everything aligns and you're lifting in the right spots (regardless of wherever some instructions or blue marks on the BB or whatever/whoever might suggest the brackets should be, but which don't match up to where you think they're meant to go), and only then, once you have BB's lifting points aligned under the appropriate hard points on the Spyder, should you tighten up all the nuts, channels, U-bolts, & brackets etc. and complete the lift?!

AFAICS, the 3rd & 4th pics in post #38 AND at least the 2nd pic in post #37 show that you've got that lift channel secured onto the BB lift arm at least about 20mm too far to the right, so you need to shorten the reach of that channel by at least that 20mm, maybe a bit more if you don't want the brake pedal pushing up hard against the right side of BB's main vertical spar, or the foot peg U-clamp to be trying to doing dodgy things too?!

 

[S2Sryder]

This is the pre-2020 RT. It doesn't use the floorboard mounting bolt holes like the 2020 and later. Is that what you mean?

Yep.

From the pics in your posts # 37 & 38, you might need to re-think using the 18cm mark that you're lining the left edge of that channel up with in post #29, and move it whichever way/however far it needs to let the BB' s rear shock lifting saddle line up under the rear shock itself, and leave more room for the brake pedal etc. on the other side of BB's vertical main lifting spar...

Quite possibly, it'd all be a lot easier for you if you used a bit of solvent to wipe off ALL the blue marks on BB and then, instead of trying to 'force-match' the BB Brackets to those marks and the appropriate points on the underside of your Spyder, you left all the nuts/U-bolts etc. on the BB channels & bracketry etc. juuust a little loose until you've actually matched the lifting points with the underside of your Spyder; and then once everything aligns and you're lifting in the right spots (regardless of wherever some instructions or blue marks on the BB or whatever/whoever might suggest the brackets should be, but which don't match up to where you think they're meant to go), and only then, once you have BB's lifting points aligned under the appropriate hard points on the Spyder, should you tighten up all the nuts, channels, U-bolts, & brackets etc. and complete the lift?!

AFAICS, the 3rd & 4th pics in post #38 AND at least the 2nd pic in post #37 show that you've got that lift channel secured onto the BB lift arm at least about 20mm too far to the right, so you need to shorten the reach of that channel by at least that 20mm, maybe a bit more if you don't want the brake pedal pushing up hard against the right side of BB's main vertical spar, or the foot peg U-clamp to be trying to doing dodgy things too?!

That’s what I did. Seems counterintuitive to what the instructions say, but it's actually a cleaner method to fit/match up with all the crucial points according to what you’re actually dealing with. But the measurements from the guide are a good place to start.

 

[UtahPete]

@S2Sryder and @Peter Aawen I will try what you're suggesting tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[S2Sryder]

@S2Sryder and @Peter Aawen I will try what you're suggesting tomorrow. Thanks.

The front edge of the front box mount will need to be placed at the front edge of the frame arm just as the directions state. Adjust the rear cradle as necessary.

 

[UtahPete]

Just for grins, I asked Google how to set up to lift an RT on Big Blue. This is what came back;

To set up and lift a 2014 Can-Am Spyder RT using a Big Blue Eazy-Rizer lift, follow these steps for a secure, 3-point stable lift:

1. Initial Prep and Clearance
• Remove the Right-Side Floorboard: You must remove the right-side floorboard on the Spyder RT. The lift frame cannot slide far enough under the chassis to center properly with the floorboard in the way.
• Manage Low Clearance: Because the Spyder RT sits very low, you may need to gingerly raise the rear (such as using a small floor jack under the tow hitch or frame point) just enough to slide the Big Blue lift rails underneath.
• Position the Lift Rails: Slide the lift rails underneath the Spyder's frame, ensuring they extend slightly outward on one side because the trike shifts and levels out as it lifts.

2. Secure the 3-Point Mounting System
• Attach the L-Shaped Frame Bracket: Align the dedicated L-shaped or adjustable stabilizer bracket from your Spyder RT kit so that it bolts from the lift arm directly into the frame/floorboard bolt hole.
• Tighten Rear U-Bolts: Fit and secure the U-shaped brackets/bolts to the rear frame or footpeg mount areas.
• Initial Weight Test: Raise the lift just until it takes the initial weight of the trike. Stop here before fully elevating.
• Lock Down All Hardware: While the weight is just barely taken by the lift, thoroughly tighten the side floorboard bracket and all U-bolts or clamps with a wrench to lock the 3-point support system in place.

3. Elevating the Trike
• Use a Proper Power Drill: Attach the provided drive adapter to a high-torque, 2-speed power drill (or a heavy-duty cordless/hammer drill with the hammer function turned off) using a 22mm socket.
• Raise Smoothly: Run the drill to elevate the Big Blue screw-shaft mechanism. The lift operates mechanically without hydraulics, raising the Spyder completely wheel-free up to the desired height (up to 30 inches).
• Safety Precaution: For extra peace of mind while working underneath, place independent jack stands under the front suspension/frame area.

Most of the references quoted are from this forum. No surprise there.