• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

Can you show us how you installed the power cables for your heated gear?

I'm looking at adding the GPS Mount and Dual Power block from Lamonster (see link below) using the 12v socket for running my heated gear. Does that sound reasonable (I'm new to Spyders so I'm guessing here)?

jdg


I went with a dock from Slingmods.com:


Once it's installed and wired, there are two sources of power at the handlebars.
A standard round 12V vehicle power port on the right, and two USB ports on the left.
Both have water resistant covers that snap into place when not in use.

It has wires to connect to the Auxiliary Power Port on the front right side of your Spyder next to the right front wheel.
You have to remove several body panels to access the port and route the wires from the dock to the power port.

I was using a Garmin Zumo XT before CAN-AM got CarPlay to work correctly.
Here's the dock installed on my 2024 Spyder RT with the mount for my Zumo XT.
The top of the dock includes a ball mount.

GarminMount.jpeg
 
I went with a dock from Slingmods.com:


Once it's installed and wired, there are two sources of power at the handlebars.
A standard round 12V vehicle power port on the right, and two USB ports on the left.
Both have water resistant covers that snap into place when not in use.

It has wires to connect to the Auxiliary Power Port on the front right side of your Spyder next to the right front wheel.
You have to remove several body panels to access the port and route the wires from the dock to the power port.

I was using a Garmin Zumo XT before CAN-AM got CarPlay to work correctly.
Here's the dock installed on my 2024 Spyder RT with the mount for my Zumo XT.
The top of the dock includes a ball mount.

View attachment 252796

We ended up going with the Slingmods version. My Zumo 665 is mounted where your XT is. Looks like it's going to work out just fine for me.

jdg
 
I added a 6 contact fuse block on our 2018 RTL above the battery under the frunk liner. I power the pilot and passenger heated Gerbing gear, rocker switch style usb outlets, cigarette lighter style outlet and GPS powered mount. Here is a link about it I posted back in 2018.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?116532-Fused-electrical-distribution-block

The heated gear for the pilot lives under the seat when not in use, and the passenger outlet is toward the back under the handgrip.

Spyder powerblock 2.jpg - coax outlet 2 - Copy.jpg - coax outlet 3 - Copy.jpg
 
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I am a big fan of Warm & Safe. Great gear, great customer support, and they offer AMA and ADV Rider Forum discounts. On my 2023 RTL, I ran their 5' fused power cord from the battery along the left side top frame tube, exiting beneath the black center cover in front of the seat. This allows me to stash the cord/connector under the seat when not in use. The 5' power cord is secured to the frame tube with loose tie wraps to allow for movement as needed.

I fabricated a handle bar mount for the dual controller wireless remote (I wasn't happy with their spring clip mount remote case). The controller is secured with a velcro tie wrap permitting solid mounting and quick removal. A piece of self adhering thin foam is mounted to the bottom of the controller for additional vibration isolation.

20260404_160732.jpg - 20260404_160715.jpg

20260404_160919.jpg - 20260404_161457.jpg

20260404_161114.jpg - 20260404_161403.jpg
 
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I added a 6 contact fuse block on our 2018 RTL above the battery under the frunk liner. I power the pilot and passenger heated Gerbing gear, rocker switch style usb outlets, cigarette lighter style outlet and GPS powered mount. Here is a link about it I posted back in 2018.

https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?116532-Fused-electrical-distribution-block

The heated gear for the pilot lives under the seat when not in use, and the passenger outlet is toward the back under the handgrip.

View attachment 253008 - View attachment 253009 - View attachment 253010
Would you mind sharing another picture of the port for the passenger, from a little distance to show where you found room to install it?
Thanks!
 
Heated jackets : this is my set-up.

My wiring includes provision for a few things - Heated Jackets, Satnav, On board Video.
The Satnav is located on the dash behind the screen and comes on with ignition.
The video camera is An Innovv K7 setup. I'm not entirely happy with the location of the main unit (DVR), but it will do for now.
The Heated jacket sockets are provided for rider and for pillion.

I'll restrict this little essay to the Heated Jackets.
Images are shown as thumbnails - click them to see a larger version.

Front Socket

Front Socket - LHS.jpgThe rider has a front socket on the left hand side. as shown in the picture. Lef side is important as there is no off switch for the power. The jackets have a controller though and heat is pretty well regulated.
Jackets are a slim fit - no wires, just a membrane - manufactured by Keiss.

They provide battery use as well and these will last a considerable amount of time. I carry the batteries with me, but tend to use the wired jacket. I like the security of having a fully charged battery for if we are ever stuck at the side of the road waiting for recovery !

The previous owner had fitted a larger (cigarette lighter) socket in the front wing of the saddle on the lefthand side. The hole was too large for my sockets which are DIN / BMW / Powerlet capable of supplying up to 20A, and are designed so that the plug and socket never loose contact with each other - unlike cigaratte lighter sockets. IN any case - I have long legs and the socket would have bashed agains the inside of my knee. It is still there, but remains unconnected.

Rear Socket

Rear Heated Jacket Socket RHS.jpgThe rear socket is on the right hand side under the handrail. There is plenty of room under than panel for the socket and for the connector which attaches to the terminals under the socket. Plenty of room for access, and for the cable which comes up through the gap between seat and handle.






Power

Relay and Fuse Holder.jpgI have taken a pair of 30A cables direct from the battery. The Red wire is fused and secured close the the battery and the cable is double insulated and runs in a protective sleeve. This has a simple 2 pin inline connector close to the battery so all of my accessories can be disabled in one go. The connector also serves as a connection for battery charger, and for the portable tyre pump.

The red wire goes direct to a 40A relay which is located just ahead of the brake fluid reservoir supported with cable ties and a metal plate. The relay holder has 3 positions for fuses and these are wired to provide separate fused circuits for Heated jackets, the satnav and the camera.

Relay in Situ.jpgThe fuse and relay holder looks like the photo, above, left. It is difficult to make out in the photo below it, but the back mounting plate on the relay/fuse base is secured to the metal plate and the top of the relay is facing the camera. The fuses are also facing the camera under the relay - so they cannot be seen in this shot.

The relay is triggered by an accessory plug that is provided just ahead of the Brake Fluid reservoir. It is plugged into a blank socket. I bought some male and female connectors and terminals (MX1900) and just wired it up (after a couple of practice attempts) to the earth and power for the relay coil. So everything turns off when the accessory circuits power down - about 10 seconds after ignition is turned off.



For convenience reasons I mounted the DVR camera recorder on a foam flooring back and it slips inside a mesh pocket in the frunk. But there are now two many wires in there. And it is hot. I really need a place under the seat, and I think I have found one that would work better - so the logic of the diagram below will remain the same, but the position of the Innovv K7 will change to near the left hand side of the diagram.

The camera needs to have a permanent battery feed as well as an on-with-ignition feed. That is becasue when the ignition is turned off, it needs time to save the current recording to the memory card - and that can take 20 seconds or so. I have had a battery go flat on me on my previous bike - and I suspect it was becasue I started the bike up, moved it uphill a couple of yards and then turned it off. The camera was still starting up, so when I cut the powere, it didn't recognise the fact. And it kept running and the battery went flat. Now if I am away or leave the bike unattended at home - I disconnect the power connector in the frunk.


Cable Routing

There is plenty of space and routes under the plastic to run cables. I used polyester type expandable sleeve to run cables, and in some places added extra protection with spiral plastic sleeve. Where possible cable harnesses are secured to parts of the frame so that they cannot flap around.

I need a circuit diaagram to record all of this before I make up the harness. I can think it through before I set crimp tools to wires and connectors. And it is then a useful record.

Added here for entertainment purposes

RTL - Electrics - Accessory Harness.png
 
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