Compile a list of BUDS owners who are willing to help, by location?

[Columbia]

So far I've managed to avoid the (lousy) dealer nearest to me. I haven't had to use BUDS, either.
Got me thinking: is there a list anywhere of those members of SL who own BUDS software/hardware and are willing to help us non-owners out?
I would gladly pay for the privilege. Not a fortune, though!
A geographical listing, perhaps by state and then by town or county, would seem to me to be all we'd need. Maybe written as the message header for easy scanning/searching. (e.g. Washington, Seattle or Washington, Spokane) Those willing could be contacted through SpyderLovers using PMs.

Your thoughts?

 

[Cobranut]

I have BUDS 1 and I'm in Central VA, Bedford County.

I'm glad to help out anyone in the area whenever I can.

 

[Dusterdude]

I'll keep you in mind, @Cobranut

 

[Jetfixer]

I have BUDS with the Mechatronic license. I'm in York, SC and charge $50 for a BUDS evaluation (which could include DESS disabling). The $50 helps to offset the cost of the equipment and license.

 

[Little Blue]

I think this is a good thing.
So all you Spyder Forum Members with BUDS,
let us know if you are willing to help.

Calling all 'BUDS Owners'...

Thanks for Looking.

 

[Little Blue]

Just curious if there are any more BUDS.
Still hoping for a few more players
Let us know.
Thanks for Looking.

 

[Snoking1127]

I believe that there are now BUDS1, BUDS2, and BUDS 3 versions. I know they needed BUDS2 or at least the BUDS2 USB cable to update the display on my 2018 RTL.

 

[adrie]

I have BUDS2.
Only it is in the Netherlands.
I Will help everyone.
Greetings, Adrie

 

[rhino1]

Is there anyone in Tucson Arizona area that has BUDS2 or 3, besides a dealership that would help a fellow spyder lover? Thanx Rhino

 

[pauly1]

I'm in Yuma through the weekend. (If you need BUDS, you're likely not mobile, so I may as well be in Florida.) That stated, I have BUDS/BUDS2 with the standard license. My skills are modest, with a lot of reference to the manuals. What do you need help with? Year. Model. Problem.

 

[rhino1]

I'm in Yuma through the weekend. (If you need BUDS, you're likely not mobile, so I may as well be in Florida.) That stated, I have BUDS/BUDS2 with the standard license. My skills are modest, with a lot of reference to the manuals. What do you need help with? Year. Model. Problem.

I have a 2014 RT. It has a rough idle at times. It only has 11,500 miles on it. I’m wondering if it’s something electrical. It runs fine other than rough idle when starting off. I call a dealer, they want $165.00 just to hook it up. That’s ridiculous! Thanx

 

[pauly1]

I have a 2014 RT. It has a rough idle at times. It only has 11,500 miles on it. I’m wondering if it’s something electrical. It runs fine other than rough idle when starting off. I call a dealer, they want $165.00 just to hook it up. That’s ridiculous! Thanx

Intermittent problems are always a challenge. The intermittent problem may not have tripped a code to read or display.

As your machine has been ridden less than 1000 miles per year, if ridden every year. More than likely it has sat for an extended period of time. If it was stored and the gas not treated with stabilizer, it likely has "gone bad", becoming stale and doesn't burn very well. Also, evaporating gas often leaves behind surface deposits (much like a varnish). My first suspicion would be a less than optimal fuel injector, probably build-up or varnish at the tip. Your spark plugs should be good.

You haven't stated if you tried anything to resolve it, but wanted a BUDS connection. I would first ensure that the gas is premium grade and fresh; not just a top off of the tank as the stale gas would still be in the tank. The older V-twins were more persnickety re fuel, but the 1330 engines can balk at the fuel too. With a fresh tank of gas, try a fuel injector cleaning additive in your fuel tank, mixing per the container and a 7-gallon tank. Run that tank of gas through the engine. After 50 miles or so, do not be afraid to rev the engine. Short shifting (<4000 RPM) and lugging the engine is not a friendly operating mode for them: they like to be free and run.

 

[rhino1]

I'm in Yuma through the weekend. (If you need BUDS, you're likely not mobile, so I may as well be in Florida.) That stated, I have BUDS/BUDS2 with the standard license. My skills are modest, with a lot of reference to the manuals. What do you need help with? Year. Model. Problem.

Intermittent problems are always a challenge. The intermittent problem may not have tripped a code to read or display.

As your machine has been ridden less than 1000 miles per year, if ridden every year. More than likely it has sat for an extended period of time. If it was stored and the gas not treated with stabilizer, it likely has "gone bad", becoming stale and doesn't burn very well. Also, evaporating gas often leaves behind surface deposits (much like a varnish). My first suspicion would be a less than optimal fuel injector, probably build-up or varnish at the tip. Your spark plugs should be good.

You haven't stated if you tried anything to resolve it, but wanted a BUDS connection. I would first ensure that the gas is premium grade and fresh; not just a top off of the tank as the stale gas would still be in the tank. The older V-twins were more persnickety re fuel, but the 1330 engines can balk at the fuel too. With a fresh tank of gas, try a fuel injector cleaning additive in your fuel tank, mixing per the container and a 7-gallon tank. Run that tank of gas through the engine. After 50 miles or so, do not be afraid to rev the engine. Short shifting (<4000 RPM) and lugging the engine is not a friendly operating mode for them: they like to be free and run.

What wouldn’t recommend for a good injector cleaner? Thanx. Rhino

 

[Peter Aawen]

What wouldn’t recommend for a good injector cleaner? Thanx. Rhino

What 'wouldn't' you recommend??? Or did you mean what 'WOULD' you recommend??

Personally, I wouldn't recommend a mix of 5 year old diesel and used sump oil; neither would I recommend straight Furnace Fuel Oil, but I've seen people who swear by the former (funnily enough, usually I see them when they have injector/fuel system problems, or their engine has detonated! ) and the latter is getting pretty hard to source in volumes of anything much less than an ocean going tanker full... and even those are getting harder to find right now!!

For what little it might be worth, what would I recommend?? Pretty much any of the good name/quality injector cleaners you can get in your part of the World should be OK - we tend to get a bunch of different brands/types here Down Under, but if it's a good quality stuff that's widely used by mechanics & Home spanner spinners that you trust, then it should make a difference.