Disappearing clutch fluid!

[daz]

The dot 4 clutch fluid in my 2011 manual seems to disappear after awhile. Maybe a week. No problem if I top it off each week. Can not see a leak. Any suggestions?

 

[quasi]

The dot 4 clutch fluid in my 2011 manual seems to disappear after awhile. Maybe a week. No problem if I top it off each week. Can not see a leak. Any suggestions?

prolly internal leak. prolly bad O rings on the slave cylinder

 

[daz]

prolly internal leak. prolly bad O rings on the slave cylinder

Slave cylinder above at clutch lever or below at clutch? Are they rebuildable? Are rebuilt ones sold (like on cars)?

 

[Ben Burped]

Oh S**T !

The clutch slave cylinder O rings are probably worn and allowing the clutch fluid to be sucked into the vacuum assist line. The clutch has a large diaphragm that assists with how much strength you have to put into pulling in the clutch. If you are reasonably mechanical, you can take a manual, some tools, and a lot of time and disassemble the clutch and replace the O rings and the diaphragm. I did it while I was changing a leaking water pump.

If you have to take it to a dealer then I would suggest that you put your head between your legs and kiss your wallet goodbye.

 

[billybovine]

Your fluid will 'Disappear' over time as your pads wear because it fills the increasing void as the clipper pistons move out to take up the slack as the pads get smaller. If you just put new pads on then this is not abnormal. If you do not have brand new pads then something is not right and you are losing fluid somewhere.

:hun: New pads in a clutch?

 

[billybovine]

Slave cylinder above at clutch lever or below at clutch? Are they rebuildable? Are rebuilt ones sold (like on cars)?

The master cylender is at the handle. Slave is at the clutch. The slave is rebuildable.

 

[Chupaca]

Here's where it goes.....

Mine was doing the same thing....
slow and spreads so no drips...replaced the o-rings and all is good again
all pictures are sideways....set your device down and walk around it...:roflblack:

 

[BajaRon]

:hun: New pads in a clutch?

Yes! And the Sun Does Rotate around the Earth (which is flat, by the way).

Old age... I'm going to blame it on old age... Sorry you quoted it but I did delete that post hoping to destroy the evidence. :banghead:

 

[daz]

Mine was doing the same thing....
View attachment 155017 View attachment 155018 slow and spreads so no drips...replaced the o-rings and all is good again
View attachment 155019 View attachment 155020 all pictures are sideways....set your device down and walk around it...:roflblack:

Thanks Chupaca. Let me add that this 2011 only has 2000 miles on it. When I bought it a few weeks ago I adjusted the clutch handle pull. So that I think it changed the length of travel of that master cylinder. You think that may have had something to do with it?

 

[Chupaca]

Not likely...

I'm thinking it may be age and or use related mine is 2012 RS and had 35,000 miles but ryden all year long. But you have to check all points to make sure it is not a crush washer on the hoses or resivoir seal. :thumbup:

Thanks Chupaca. Let me add that this 2011 only has 2000 miles on it. When I bought it a few weeks ago I adjusted the clutch handle pull. So that I think it changed the length of travel of that master cylinder. You think that may have had something to do with it?

 

[daz]

I'm thinking it may be age and or use related mine is 2012 RS and had 35,000 miles but ryden all year long. But you have to check all points to make sure it is not a crush washer on the hoses or resivoir seal. :thumbup:

Is there an online micro fiche to see parts? Where does a guy order Can AM parts online? Thanks!

 

[Chupaca]

Oh yeah..!!

cheapcycleparts.com where I get all my parts. The only other o-rings you may see (I did not change them) are on the vaccum assist system. They have better stock and prices :thumbup:

Is there an online micro fiche to see parts? Where does a guy order Can AM parts online? Thanks!

 

[Haze]

Slave Cylinder Rebuild

Here is a collection of notes from past posts regarding slave cylinder rebuild.
I ordered all three orings from my local dealer.

SM5 Clutch

As Doc said, only the lever is adjustable. While your clutch plates may well need replacement (there is a new clutch pack with an extra plate and a new oil nozzle available). If you are not experiencing any slipping, the clutch may still be serviceable for a while. The Spyder clutch is reknowned for engaging at the very end of the throw. There is no free play, and the hydraulic clutch engages over a very short distance. If you replace the clutch plates and discs, use part number 420281930 for an SM5. The SE has a different part number.
Change and Bleed the clutch fluid. Rebuild slave if necessary.


Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild
Page 05 Picture in the diagrams on the replacement parts at Cheapcycleparts.com

Diaphragm Cover
Orings – #10, #11, #13

p/n 420431441
p/n 420431301
p/n 420631892


[FONT=&quot]Look up 2013 -5 service bulletin in the forum[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I'm guessing that your [/FONT][FONT=&quot]slave[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]cylinder[/FONT][FONT=&quot] has failed. This is a recurring problem that is being investigated. You will have to replace the [/FONT][FONT=&quot]slave[/FONT][FONT=&quot] piston & O-rings, and the [/FONT][FONT=&quot]slave[/FONT][FONT=&quot] bushing ([/FONT][FONT=&quot]cylinder[/FONT][FONT=&quot]) and O-rings. Cost of parts is about $80 if it is out of warranty. You will recognize the problem by discolored clutch fluid, due the the aluminum that is sluffed off the [/FONT][FONT=&quot]slave[/FONT][FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]cylinder[/FONT][FONT=&quot] as it wears, and the deterioration of the O-rings. Be sure to thoroughly flush the clutch system when you do the work. If the clutch fluid is clear, the first place I would look is warped clutch plates, as Lamont said. There is a newly revised clutch pack available, with steel plates and 5 plates/discs. Be sure they order the one for the SM...the SE clutch kit is different. Time to see your dealer.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot]There is not a service bulletin addressing this problem as yet, but BRP should be making techs aware soon...possibly via notification on WebBoss. If you have an SM5 Spyder, especially one nearing the 20,000 mile range, and you have seen dirty clutch fluid, a rebuild would be in order before complete failure occurs. If you merely replaced the O-rings during a rebuild, you should do the job again, and replace the piston and bushing, too[/FONT][FONT=&quot].[/FONT]

 

[youngers]

cycle shop or on-line

Is there an online micro fiche to see parts? Where does a guy order Can AM parts online? Thanks!

I re-built mine , the O-rings - around 10 too 15 dollars ---- time to do it your self --- priceless if your cycle has been sitting for a while , ( you mentioned only so many miles on it , I think the O-rings dissolved sitting in the brake fluid that the clutch system uses ---- you are using the type 4 brake fluid ?
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/...der-r-t-(-s-m-5-)-clutch-leak-found-and-fixed-! this is what I did to repair my cycle it most likely sat for a year or so , before I bought it , ran o-kay for the first 2 months then would not go into gear at all , and I had a noticeable leak toward the front of the engine area down under ! it really isn`t hard to do just takes time and a weekend ... a lot of room to store the plastic :thumbup:

 

[Chupaca]

word of cauton...

In this step the socket you see is an allen and it hold the vaccum diaphram from twisting when you loosen and re-tighten the center nut. if you don't do this you will tear the diaphram and have to replace that part and the o-rings that on on it as well. Otherwise a little brake fluid on the o-rings before re-assembly and it is straight forward...:thumbup:

 

[daz]

Hello David. Thank you for the information. I've since spent a lot of time researching this problem and realize it is pretty common and NOT the end of the world. Are you aware of a good video or step by step descriptions of this process? And of course there is still no rebuild kit available, correct? On a side note: What complicates this problem is that my bike is 960 miles away from where I live. It's in a storage shed. So when I get back to it in three months I will have to have all the parts and tools with me to get it running. Probably will need to install a new battery as well. So I have to do my homework! Thanks again.

Here is a collection of notes from past posts regarding slave cylinder rebuild.
I ordered all three orings from my local dealer.

SM5 Clutch

As Doc said, only the lever is adjustable. While your clutch plates may well need replacement (there is a new clutch pack with an extra plate and a new oil nozzle available). If you are not experiencing any slipping, the clutch may still be serviceable for a while. The Spyder clutch is reknowned for engaging at the very end of the throw. There is no free play, and the hydraulic clutch engages over a very short distance. If you replace the clutch plates and discs, use part number 420281930 for an SM5. The SE has a different part number.
Change and Bleed the clutch fluid. Rebuild slave if necessary.


Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild
Page 05 Picture in the diagrams on the replacement parts at Cheapcycleparts.com

Diaphragm Cover
Orings – #10, #11, #13

p/n 420431441
p/n 420431301
p/n 420631892


Look up 2013 -5 service bulletin in the forum
I'm guessing that your slavecylinder has failed. This is a recurring problem that is being investigated. You will have to replace the slave piston & O-rings, and the slave bushing (cylinder) and O-rings. Cost of parts is about $80 if it is out of warranty. You will recognize the problem by discolored clutch fluid, due the the aluminum that is sluffed off the slavecylinder as it wears, and the deterioration of the O-rings. Be sure to thoroughly flush the clutch system when you do the work. If the clutch fluid is clear, the first place I would look is warped clutch plates, as Lamont said. There is a newly revised clutch pack available, with steel plates and 5 plates/discs. Be sure they order the one for the SM...the SE clutch kit is different. Time to see your dealer.



There is not a service bulletin addressing this problem as yet, but BRP should be making techs aware soon...possibly via notification on WebBoss. If you have an SM5 Spyder, especially one nearing the 20,000 mile range, and you have seen dirty clutch fluid, a rebuild would be in order before complete failure occurs. If you merely replaced the O-rings during a rebuild, you should do the job again, and replace the piston and bushing, too.

 

[safecracker]

Search YouTube for, Spyder Stuff, he has a video on sm5 clutch replacement. Bruce

 

[Marr]

Spring

I had the same problem, ya ged the 3 o rings, problem solved. One thing you have to watch for, there’s a spring behind the piston, in order to get piston out you have to pump clutch lever a little bit. You can watch it come out each time. At a certain point the spring takes over and it and the spring come out with authority. Make sure you keep an eye on where they go. Wasnt a bad job to do.

 

[Ryan12]

o rings

I replaced mine and WOW what a difference on the clutch operation. Like night and day. Way smoother now. Mine was very black on inside with yuck. be sure to clean it real good. Both sides of the diaphragm. Just be careful not to damage the diaphragm.