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Doing 1st oil change (Spyder RT) I have a few questions (((Pics)))

shakin_jake

Member
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Is this the engine drain bolt? If so, is it an Allen or? & what size? Looks like an Allen to me TIA

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I’m guessing this is the clutch drain plug? Again, what type of fastener is this, Allen or (can’t remember what they’re referred to) ?…and what size please, if you know

2021 Spyder RT Limited. What a bugger of a time I’m having<LOL>. My 2020 Ryker Rally was so much easier to change engine fluid, at least to drain

While I have your collective ears, what are others using to get this beast up in the air for a simple (LOL) oil change? I’m using car ramps on the front wheels. I’m thinking jack stands would be easier. Where are you jacking, and placing the stands if you’re doing it that way. Admittedly, the jack stands I have are in bad shape. Haven’t used them in years, they’re a bit rusted & primarily why I’m using ramps

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Cretin Girl in all her glory. FWIW I turned over 3K miles this morning running an errand. Baja Ron’s oil change kit came in the mail yesterday? So, thought I’d do the oil change now while the motor oil is hot


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Life is beautiful
 
Unless BRP changed them ( and doesn'\t look like it ) ... I'm really sure the HEX bolt is Trans. .... the engine uses T-45 ..... which I swapped for HEX head engine bolt ..... I use ramps for the front and a small Alumin. floor jack for the rear ..... good luck .... Mike:thumbup:
 
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Unless BRP changed them ( and doesn'\t look like it ) ... I'm really sure the HEX bolt is Trans. .... the engine uses T-45 ..... which I swapped for HEX head engine bolt ..... I use ramps for the front and a small Alumin. floor jack for the rear ..... good luck .... Mike:thumbup:



~~~ thanks Mike!, I can figure out what type of socket, etc. to get the proper bite on the bung bolts, what I’m concerned with is verification, so the first pic, is that the engine drain bolt? I ask because the owner’s manual, the tiny line drawing, shows the location of the engine drain, to be adjacent to the center frame rail, whereas the location of the drain bolt that I took the picture of (1st pic), is way over to the outside of the motor. I just want to make sure I have the right bolt to remove (1st pic). That's all I’m asking for, verification of the correct fastener to remove. The owner’s manual totally sucks AFAIC, for a lot of things. Do you understand what I’m asking you? Apologies in advance, my brain resembles smoked meat…I’ve been working too hard in other areas


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Go w/the flow
 
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Yep just did mine 6mm - trans Right side of bike

torx is engine left side of bike

They are on each side of the lower frame rail



Do you have the jack under the shock??
 
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I back my RT up the ramps to give me more clearance to work. The back is jacked from the rear end of the frame (by the exhaust springs).
 
Yep just did mine 6mm - trans Right side of bike

torx is engine left side of bike



Do you have the jack under the shock??
.



~~~yes, i have a floor jack under the rear shock

Pardon me for appearing to be all too redundant Triker mutha but, the 1st pic I posted, is that the engine drain bolt? Thanking you in advance!!!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while
 
.



~~~yes, i have a floor jack under the rear shock

Pardon me for appearing to be all too redundant Triker mutha but, the 1st pic I posted, is that the engine drain bolt? Thanking you in advance!!!


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while


No thats the trans bolt 6MM Allen Socket

Be careful jacking that up from the shock it could bend the bolt. I would use the frame
 
No thats the trans bolt 6MM Allen Socket

Be careful jacking that up from the shock it could bend the bolt. I would use the frame



Very good advise. The lower shock mount is a very tempting place to jack... Don't do it! You'll be sorry....
 
Turn those ramps around and back onto them and you will gain a lot of extra clearance when you crawl under it. If you don't want to jack up the rear you should still get a good drain.
 
No thats the trans bolt 6MM Allen Socket

Be careful jacking that up from the shock it could bend the bolt. I would use the frame

Just put a piece of wood ... that's wider than the frame TABS , and jack it up this will allow easy removal of the Shock Bolt .... Mike :thumbup:
 
~~~ thanks Mike!, I can figure out what type of socket, etc. to get the proper bite on the bung bolts, what I’m concerned with is verification, so the first pic, is that the engine drain bolt? I ask because the owner’s manual, the tiny line drawing, shows the location of the engine drain, to be adjacent to the center frame rail, whereas the location of the drain bolt that I took the picture of (1st pic), is way over to the outside of the motor. I just want to make sure I have the right bolt to remove (1st pic). That's all I’m asking for, verification of the correct fastener to remove. The owner’s manual totally sucks AFAIC, for a lot of things. Do you understand what I’m asking you? Apologies in advance, my brain resembles smoked meat…I’ve been working too hard in other areas


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
Go w/the flow

As I stated, the FIRST pic is the TRANS "hex" bolt ..... Mike :thumbup:
 
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Wow! You guys are amazing!! Okay, I learned a lot reading the replies. So what did Jake learn? Jake learned the the drain bolt on the right side of the trike is the transmission drain and that the engine drain is on the left side. Roger that! Jake also learned that he made a false move by jacking the rear up using the shock bolt. Yes I did that but, thanks to several of you, I won’t do that again. I’ll do like Mike said and that is to slide a two by four that is wider than the frame tabs that surround the rear shock bolt and jack the rear using the frame tabs and not the shock bolt. Roger that.

What else? Several of you (Ray & Ed) said to back up the ramps to gain access, instead of driving the front wheels up the ramps. Roger that, I hear you loud and clear. BTW, I scuttled the oil draining operation Wednesday so that I could let all of this excellent information permeate my smoked meat brain. Thursday is a new day and I will put all of your advice to task today (Thursday), later today. It’s now 2:50 AM Thursday, way too early to start draining oil (for me at least).

I also want to mention Baja Ron posting the pic of the 1330 undercarriage I put a call into Ron about the drain bung locations since I purchased his 1330 oil filter and gasket kit, to replace the OEM oil filter and gaskets, I had a few questions for Ron. Ron sent that pic to my email account so I could better see these two oil drain bungs. Much appreciation Ron!

I really have to hand it to this forum and all that choose to edjumacate Jake so that he carries out his Spyder 1st oil change correctly. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I was having a hard time getting all of this info through my thick Dutch skull. That said, I totally understand now


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhoodchildhood
 
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Wow! You guys are amazing!! Okay, I learned a lot reading the replies. So what did Jake learn? Jake learned the the drain bolt on the right side of the trike is the transmission drain and that the engine drain is on the left side. Roger that! Jake also learned that he made a false move by jacking the rear up using the shock bolt. Yes I did that but, thanks to several of you, I won’t do that again. I’ll do like Mike said and that is to slide a two by four that is wider than the frame tabs that surround the rear shock bolt and jack the rear using the frame tabs and not the shock bolt. Roger that.

What else? Several of you (Ray & Ed) said to back up the ramps to gain access, instead of driving the front wheels up the ramps. Roger that, I hear you loud and clear. BTW, I scuttled the oil draining operation Wednesday so that I could let all of this excellent information permeate my smoked meat brain. Thursday is a new day and I will put all of your advice to task today (Thursday), later today. It’s now 2:50 AM Thursday, way too early to start draining oil (for me at least).

I also want to mention Baja Ron posting the pic of the 1330 undercarriage I put a call into Ron about the drain bung locations since I purchased his 1330 oil filter and gasket kit, to replace the OEM oil filter and gaskets, I had a few questions for Ron. Ron sent that pic to my email account so I could better see these two oil drain bungs. Much appreciation Ron!

I really have to hand it to this forum and all that choose to edjumacate Jake so that he carries out his Spyder 1st oil change correctly. Thank you, thank you, thank you! I was having a hard time getting all of this info through my thick Dutch skull. That said, I totally understand now


Best,


Jake
Reddick Fla.
It’s never too late to have a happy childhoodchildhood

Thank you Jake for taking time and effort to say ... Thanks for everyone's assistance :clap: ..... Often times folks ask questions and don't acknowledge the help they received ...... Here's something I didn't mention, you have a 21 so I'm not sure you could even do what I did .... After my first oil change ( on a 14 RT ) I decided to make the next one easier by using a HOLE cutter on the inside " insulated baffle panel ", Now I don't have to remove that to get to the Oil Filter :clap: ... I didn't notice any extra heat coming thru not any louder noise ...... have fun .... Mike :thumbup:
 
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To piggyback on the thank you...
Thank you Jake for asking the exact question(s) that I was going to ask.
Also, thanks to all that replied with the answers.:2thumbs:

I watched a youtube on this and want to double check...
Do I drain both of these plugs that were discussed above?
Is engine and transmission one fluid/filter change?
 
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