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Feedback requested - Monster Fuel Injection (Wick-It Performance) Stage II ECU Flash

Davgill2002

Member
Good morning, in the past on my former 2014 RTL I had a Wicked-Performance Stage I flash. I really liked the results, more responsive, more mid-range, better top-end power, higher rev limit, and at a steady cruise (60-65mpg) better mileage.

My question is , for my newer RTS2S I am entertaining purchasing Monster's Stage II flash. However, I am being told that unlike the Stage I flash I MUST ALWAYS use AT LEAST 91 octane! Monster's recommendations for the Stage I was; just like the BRP manual states for stock configuration, 91 is required but one can use 87 in emergencies. The reason for this is the engine & nanny safeguards, e.g. auto downshifts and spark control (ignition advance) are not altered by the flash and hence continues to protect the engine. My experience with the Stage I was, except for 2 or 3 tanks of 91, I always ran 87 ethanol with absolutely no problems whatsoever for many many (15-20 thousand) miles. Yes I likely lost 1mpg and one bike length in a 0-70 acceleration comparison by running 87.

In discussing the Stage II with Monster I have been lead to believe that their Stage II flash: 1.) raises the clutch engagement on SE6 semi-automatic transmission equipped RTs from 2,500 to 3,500 rpm; 2.) alters the engine advance characteristics beyond what those engine safeguards are designed to compensate for (at very low and very high rpm) and thus they can no longer prevent detonation with lower octane fuels, and; 3.) the flash improve throttle response much more that Stage I thereby eliminating the need for a Pedal Commander or Pedal Box. Personally, I found the Pedal Commander significantly improved throttle response even after the Stage I flash.

If the foregoing are all true, one would certainly need high octane and also one would be prudent to change their engine oil more frequently due to potentially higher clutch wear, which will certainly dirty the oil sooner.

Nonetheless, based on numerous customer reviews, on this site and others, of Monster's Stage II performance results, despite the attendant higher fuel costs and more frequent oil changes , I still desire the Stage II flash. Currently, in my neck of the woods, 91 octane runs 72 cents/gal more or about $4/tank extra (assumes 5.5 gal ave refill). I ride approximately 10,000 miles annually, hence at say an average of 30/gal, with 91 octane I will incur an annual additional fuel cost of $240. In addition, due to the need for more frequent oil changes, with the miles I put on annually every two years I will incur one additional oil change. If done at a dealer that is an additional $300 of costs associated with this tune. Further, it appears that it may be cheaper to use octane booster instead of purchasing premium gas. I have heard, however, that many claimed octane boosters are crap and that only a fuel such as Boostane Premium are any good.

I brought up all of the foregoing as Monster has indicated to me that I can purchase both the Stage I & the Stage II tunes, and via a OBDII Bluetooth adapter & program (that is also sold by them) I could then easily & quickly switch from Stage I to Stage II & back via my cell phone. The Cost of this setup is purportedly about $1,000 whereas the Stage II by itself is $515. Thus it appears that within two years I would break even with this setup. This assumes I would use Stage I 85 percent of the time and Stage II 15 percent of the time, e.g. when this old man feels froggy.

Here is where you folks come in. I have no idea just how much I will like the Stage II. If I really like it I may very well never switch back to the stage I to save cost and maintenance. I was happy with my Stage I on my old RT. That is until I read feedback on the Stage II. Do any of you have first hand experience with both the stage I &II? Were any of you aware of the potential for increased clutch wear? Have any of you had problems or engine or clutch damage? Likewise, has anyone experienced a lack of availability of 91 octane? Finally, what is everybody's experience with octane boosters, which brands are good, and which ones are bad?

Sorry for the long post. Thank you for your comments.
 
I have a 14 RTS and I run stage II. I carry 2 bottles of Boostane in case I can't find 91. Also, I change oil at 10k, and if it keeps coming back with the same test results, I may go to 12k changes. I get 40mpg at 60mph 2up. If you are so concerned with costs, then I believe you should remain stock. Beyond that, I think you've done the research and answered most of your questions. Good luck, and you could always go back to stock if you wanted. Just about any shop could override stage II, even by accident.
 
I also talked to the gentleman at Wick-it Performance before having my ECM flashed. The clutch engagement point was not brought up, nor the need for increased oil change intervals. I couldn't decide between stage 1 or 2, but after our conversation, he convinced me to go with stage 2. I couldn't be happier. It's unbelievable how much better it runs. Just seems to run much easier.
I'm 76 years old but still ride with a "little" spirit from time to time and it's nice to know the performance is there if I need it. I just don't get to ride enough because of my wife's declining cognitive abilities.
Also, I figured if I could spend $30k on a Spyder and the stage 2 upgrade, I can afford to put premium fuel in it. Best money I ever spent was on stage 2.
There are several other threads on this subject, here on Spyderlovers.
 
Don't forget to spend an extra $25 and buy an air filter cover that doesn't have holes. A stock tune, and likely a stage 1, will fart and pop on decel if the air filter has the (2) 1" holes in it. I know my F3S did until I had it custom tuned (Power Vision 3) with the altered filter cover. I really like the custom tune I have on my F3S, but on my new S2S, I'd likely go the Stage 1 type tune mainly for the all around convenience. I do also have PC installed.

** From Monster **
USER NOTES:​

It is imperative that stage 1 or stage 2 tuning along with specific air box or inlet modification never be mixed up or used beyond their intended development. IE: You can't run stage 2 airbox modifications with stage 1 ecu tuning. And you cant run stage 2 tuning without the proper air inlet modifications.
 
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However, I am being told that unlike the Stage I flash I MUST ALWAYS use AT LEAST 91 octane!

In order for it to perform as expected yes. BUT, you can use any octane in a pinch, you JUST have to NOT hammer on it... Drive it like Miss Daisy until you can get to the proper octane level.... If this is coming from an expense point of view and you can't/don't want to pay for premium fuel, then it isn't for you...

I have 10's of thousands of miles on my Stage 2 tune on my 2015 and not one hiccup!! My wingman can attest to my level of Hooliganism and I ride it like I stole it most every outing. Even when my Cam Position Sensor was bad it ran well (bike was "soft" and I was wondering what was up as there was no MIL/codes etc) and then one day I was ripping along doing 80+ and didn't even notice the "LIMP MODE" message running across the display until I looked down for the time... Never missed a beat the last 45 miles home!
 
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Don't forget to spend an extra $25 and buy an air filter cover that doesn't have holes. A stock tune, and likely a stage 1, will fart and pop on decel if the air filter has the (2) 1" holes in it. I know my F3S did until I had it custom tuned (Power Vision 3) with the altered filter cover. I really like the custom tune I have on my F3S, but on my new S2S, I'd likely go the Stage 1 type tune mainly for the all around convenience. I do also have PC installed.

** From Monster **
USER NOTES:​

It is imperative that stage 1 or stage 2 tuning along with specific air box or inlet modification never be mixed up or used beyond their intended development. IE: You can't run stage 2 airbox modifications with stage 1 ecu tuning. And you cant run stage 2 tuning without the proper air inlet modifications.

Thank you. With regard for the air box modification. I was told by Monster that with the 2020 & newer RTs, the air box mod was not necessary but instead optional.


I also talked to the gentleman at Wick-it Performance before having my ECM flashed. The clutch engagement point was not brought up, nor the need for increased oil change intervals. I couldn't decide between stage 1 or 2, but after our conversation, he convinced me to go with stage 2. I couldn't be happier. It's unbelievable how much better it runs. Just seems to run much easier.
I'm 76 years old but still ride with a "little" spirit from time to time and it's nice to know the performance is there if I need it. I just don't get to ride enough because of my wife's declining cognitive abilities.
Also, I figured if I could spend $30k on a Spyder and the stage 2 upgrade, I can afford to put premium fuel in it. Best money I ever spent was on stage 2.
There are several other threads on this subject, here on Spyderlovers.

Thank you. I was not really "concerned" about the cost other than learning the full impact of the stage II in terms of fuel availability and maintenance. I identify with you as I am 77 but occasionally like to ride with a "little" spirit.


In order for it to perform as expected yes. BUT, you can use any octane in a pinch, you JUST have to NOT hammer on it... Drive it like Miss Daisy until you can get to the proper octane level.... If this is coming from an expense point of view and you can't/don't want to pay for premium fuel, then it isn't for you...

I have 10's of thousands of miles on my Stage 2 tune on my 2015 and not one hiccup!! My wingman can attest to my level of Hooliganism and I ride it like I stole it most every outing. Even when my Cam Position Sensor was bad it ran well (bike was "soft" and I was wondering what was up as there was no MIL/codes etc) and then one day I was ripping along doing 80+ and didn't even notice the "LIMP MODE" message running across the display until I looked down for the time... Never missed a beat the last 45 miles home!

Thank you for your feedback. Its not really an expense issue. I live in SD and ride back roads e.g. boondocks and Indian reservations, and had not really paid attention to the availability of 91. It appears as long as I carry a can of octane booster along I should be fine, or as you say put to the next station. Good to hear you have had no problems relating to the Stage II. Thats what I am interested in. Your 2015, that is a 1330 correct?
 
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I have had Stage II ECU upgrade for my 2014 RT for 8 years. Never had any issue. None. I carry one liter gasoline in the rear trunk. Safety approved aluminum of course. But I have never needed it. I've only stopped at one station that didn't have 91 gas. Drove a mile to the next station for higher octane gas. I rode from Northeast Louisiana to Canada and have always found premium.

I only highly recommend Stage II. I know it costs more, but it IS worth it. Think that you own a high-performance machine, you paid a lot for it, you must not even think of the cost of fuel. It is what Stage II requires, as does the Spyder itself from original purchase. Going cheap is not what is needed. Spend the money. Get the best out of your expensive machine, do the maintenance regularly and you'll always have a great ride.

IMHO, if the money for premium is an issue, you shouldn't be riding a Spyder. I speak from almost 10 years owning a Spyder and over 47K miles. When the heat dies next week, I'm back on the road for another long ride. I've never been to North Dakota.
 
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I have a 2021 RT, and my friend has a 2024 RT. Can anyone confirm that Stage II will work on current models?
Thanks
Dennis
 
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I have a 2021 RT, and my friend has a 2024 RT. Can anyone confirm that Stage II will work on current models?
Thanks
Dennis

Call these guys 1-(318) 562-6961. The call is free, and they'll tell you anything you want to know about Stage II for your Spyder.
 
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