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Has anyone tried this lift from Harbor Freight?
- Thread starter Quickdraw
- Start date
TheMariner
Active member
I''d also be concerned about the diameter of the front wheels nesting securely in the wheel brackets. They are meant for much smaller diameter Mower wheels.
racoon
Well-known member
If you've already assembled it, then spread it as wide as possible, drive your Spyder up to it, and see if it fits.
If it's still in the box, then I'd return it and get a pair of these instead:
If it's still in the box, then I'd return it and get a pair of these instead:
Quickdraw
Member
I have not assembled it. I have ramps, and I have a lift to lift the entire bike from the center, but I thought this would be a better option. I have to put the BajaRon swaybar on, so I need the height; and because I'm doing it by myself, I wanted a safe method of lifting the bike.
It comes with a strap to secure the load as a safety precaution.
racoon
Well-known member
I found this on the Tractor Supply website.
It's a similar style of lift, but has a max wheel span of 62.5".
Pricier, though, at $549.99.
It's a similar style of lift, but has a max wheel span of 62.5".
Pricier, though, at $549.99.
Gwolf
Well-known member
You don't need to worry about the tires coming out of the cradles. You can just put a short strap on them to hold them. I had some stops a little like that for the front tires of motorcycles on my trailer. They had straps to hold the tires solid in the cradles, worked fine for many years.
trikermutha
Active member
Sure it can handle the weight of the Spyder?
TheMariner
Active member
It says 750 pounds capacity. An RT comes in just over 1,000 pounds but you'd have to estimate 3/4 of that is over the front wheels... 750 pounds. Might lift it OK but I'd certainly be putting something under the wheels before working under it. It might also be tricky to release it slowly enough to stop the front from hitting the ground hard on the release.
trikermutha
Active member
I'd also be worried about it bending or twisting with that kind of weight on that lift. But Please be careful, I'd find a floor jack put under the center frame, then block or jack stand it for safety. I have used a motorcycle lift, but that has it limitations, as it can become unbalanced on the lift. They do sell an adapter for them I noticed a while back, but I never purchased one.
Gwolf
Well-known member
Whether the weight is close to the limit or not, you always put jack stands under anything you raise up with hydraulic pressure before working under it. That is one is the safety rules of MSHA and OSHA and any other safety organisation that investigate work place accidents. You never trust your life to hydraulic pressure, nor cable brakes on overhead lifts, or anything like that. If the hydraulic hoses should spring a leak or the winch brakes on overhead hoists gave way, it would drop all that weight on anyone under whatever was lifted. Cylinders or hoses can spring a leak on fork lifts. the boom cylinders or hoses can leak on hydraulic crane lifts. Never get under anything that is being held up by only hydraulic pressure. Never trust the lift cables, or the winch brakes with your life.
Flier Tuck
Member
Get a Big Blue bike lift, then you will be safe. Plus you can get adaptors that lets you lift other bikes including solos.
Quickdraw
Member
Ideally but I can't justify the expense.
Quickdraw
Member
Thanks for your input. I didn't quite get a definitive answer from the comments, but in doing more research, I have decided to return it. I already have a Harbor Freight 1500lb capacity lift, so I'll take Lamonster's recommendation from a comment I stumbled on and use that to lift the front of the bike, while leaving the back tire on the ground. I'll get taller jack stands to stabilize the front.
troop
Well-known member
Gwolf
Well-known member
I sometimes lift the front end of the Spyder or mower with a roll around shop engine hoist (2 Ton capacity).
Instead of the jack stands I put the steel ramps for the truck under the front tires and let it back down on the ramps.
Plenty of room to work under there if the ramps are put in backwards. Ramps have built in stop on the high side.
Instead of the jack stands I put the steel ramps for the truck under the front tires and let it back down on the ramps.
Plenty of room to work under there if the ramps are put in backwards. Ramps have built in stop on the high side.
CloverHillCrawler
Well-known member
I have that lift from HF, it's a great little lift. But I do something a little different with lifting the front.
I drive up the ramps first, then I come in from the front and use the lift on the crossmembers instead of the centerpiece and once I have it just above where my jack stands are preset and locked then I drop the rear of the a arms gently down onto the jackstands.
I drive up the ramps first, then I come in from the front and use the lift on the crossmembers instead of the centerpiece and once I have it just above where my jack stands are preset and locked then I drop the rear of the a arms gently down onto the jackstands.
YIRYDE
formerly pman2011
I have this type of lift that I purchased from Sears. It looks just like it it except it has on it Craftsman.
https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-aluminum-atvmotorcycle-lift-70835.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-aluminum-atvmotorcycle-lift-70835.html
Quickdraw
Member
I brought it back and bought a set of 6 ton jack stands that raise to 24". That should be good.
DON"T use that lawnmower ramp! It won't support the weight as previously stated. Regular steel car ramps work great, but they won't give you the height you need. The best and safest I've seen so far, if you don't want to spend the big bucks, is to use two heavy-duty loading ramps on a pickup bed (tail gate), then block and chain the spyder in position so it won't move. Good luck.
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