Jerry Smith
New member
My 2014 spider RT will not shift into Reverse when it's warmed up. It works fine when the engine is cold.
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My 2014 Spyder RT won’t go into Reverse when warmed up. Works fine when cold. Any ideas? Thanks in advance for any help.
- Thread starter Jerry Smith
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Jerry Smith
New member
I’ve checked and rechecked. Always good though. But regarding that, it is very difficult to get a read on the stick as the oil is so clear. Dealer showed me a little that helps. But that doesn’t resolve my issue.
And yes, it shifts into other gears fine.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Hi Jerry. If all of your upshifts, and all of your downshifts - except for reverse - are completely fine all the time, then hydraulics and oil pressure are probably ok. So in that case, let’s look at the components that are reverse specific. Namely, the R button and the reverse actuator.
The button is pretty straight forward. Ensure it is clean, not jamming, and operates freely.
The reverse actuator is that component, kind of hanging down and slanted underneath the left side, inboard of the footpeg. It’s a solenoid mounted on a bracket, that pulls in a cable, that operates a lever, that allows the gearbox to shift into reverse. After 12 years, maybe a bit of corrosion perhaps? There’s a rubber boot around the solenoid and core that gets operated. Check that for a rip or tear. Try to get some WD-40 or Powerlube inside of there. See what happens with a bit of lube.
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Jerry Smith
New member
I will check them out. Thanks for the tips.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Jerry, just in case you are new to this whole Spyder thing, and you inherited this problem, here's a pic of the thing from above. Not the best location. The bracket can get snagged or bent. Floor jack and such. So, while you're under there, you would want to just look it over to see that everything looks straight.
Snoking1127
Well-known member
When the condition is present, with help from another person. One could reach up and push back on the lever while the other tries to shift it into reverse. If it shifts, then you will know what to work on.
Jerry Smith
New member
I’m really leaning towards your suggestion that oil pressure is low. I will check with the dealer also, but do you know if there is a heavier alternative to the 5w40 oil normally recommended?
mecsw500
Well-known member
I wouldn't mess with the oil weight. 5W-40 is reasonably heavy at operating temperature as it is, going to 10W-50 isn't really going to help.
If you are overcoming an oil pressure problem with thicker oil that will likely be a very temporary fix. If the oil pumping system is so worn, or the oil galleries so clogged it needs thicker oil to get sufficient oil pressure, something is wearing it out like bearing material present in the oil. Even if it raises the pressure it might not increase the flow rate where it's critically needed elsewhere from the transmission.
The oil pumping system for a Spyder is quite complex as it's a dry sump engine, so anything's possible.
In order to get a baseline I would get an oil change, to ensure the oil is the correct weight. I would change the engine oil filter too, to ensure all the gaskets and O-rings are in the correct place and a new filter is fitted and operating correctly. I would also change the HCM Hydraulic Control Module filter to ensure the transmission solenoids are able to release oil at the correct pressure required. For this I would use official XPS branded products, just to know you are good to go on the filters.
This is the cheapest way of knowing your oiling system should be operating properly. When doing this, look for sparkly bits in the oil, to suggest the pumps are worn, likewise sparkly bits in the old filter, and the HCM filter might be clogged.
Unless you have a complete service history for the bike you may have no idea about prior oil change intervals, oil choices, whether it had ever been run low or overfilled, whether anyone had used silicon as a gasket sealant that is clogging things up. Is the inside of the engine clean or is it full of oil sludge and carbon residue? The only way to know that for sure it to at least pull the valve cover off and inspect the top of the cylinder head where the camshafts live. If it is full of sludge up, this is where it will show up for sure. This is not going to be as cheap a thing to do as a complete Oil, Filter and HCM Filter change to get a baseline of things you know.
Snowbelt Spyder
Well-known member
Well Jerry, as you said yourself - When the problem appears, all of the other shifts are just fine. Reverse is the only shift that is affected. There is absolutely no difference in the oil pressure required for Reverse, as there is for any other shift. It's just another movement of the hydraulic piston. Looking over the comments and postings here, it's self evident that there is a knowledge gap about how this thing works, where oil pressure comes from and what it's used for. Of course, none of this is applicable if you have the manual transmission. So, I'll leave you with this. Enjoy.
drive.google.com
SE6 Shift and Hydraulic System.pdf
drive.google.com
