My 2014 ST SM5 Project

[c5greg]

@jjc54 - Since you asked.

This project will restore my new to me 2014 Can-Am Spyder ST SM5 to a safe, dependable, and clean riding condition. The goal is to establish a known maintenance baseline and create a reliable machine that I can enjoy with confidence.

Project Objectives​

• Make the Spyder safe and roadworthy.
• Complete all overdue or unknown maintenance.
• Identify and correct mechanical, electrical, and cosmetic issues.
• Document parts, costs, repairs, and lessons learned.
• Finish with a clean, dependable machine ready for regular riding.

Starting Point and Baseline Assessment​

I bought the Spyder from its second owner; the first owner was his uncle. Although it had remained within the same family, it spent far more time sitting neglected than being ridden. It has less than 7k miles. This history made a complete inspection and maintenance reset especially important.

The previous owner had also backed the Spyder into an object, breaking the license plate light and bending the metal support braces at the rear. In addition, several fluids were low and overdue for replacement, and the fuel in the tank was approximately two years old. The Spyder was running, but very rough.

The first phase is to understand exactly what I purchased and create an initial defect list.

The teardown is now underway. I have removed the exterior plastic body panels to gain access for inspection, cleaning, and service. With the panels off, I have found a few additional items that need to be addressed and some just to be aware of (it's an old bike and will never be perfect).

The Current Plan​

Tail Damage:​

The known rear impact damage requires a new/unbroken license plate light and the bent metal support braces replaced. Parts are all on order and should be here next week.

Mechanical and Service:​

The approximately two-year-old gasoline has been removed and will be replaced with fresh fuel, and a treatment of Techron. Planned work includes replacing the fuel filter, spark plugs, and spark plug wires; completing an engine oil and filter service; flushing and replacing the coolant; and a new K&N air filter. The brake and clutch hydraulic systems will also be serviced, including new Dot 4 Fluid. Parts are all on order and should be here next week as well.

Cosmetic/Missing Parts:​

There are several missing or incorrect fasteners which I am planning to rectify. Additionally, there are a few cosmetic issues to address. I am planning a full detail and clean up of the body panels and some polishing to remove superficial scratches.

If the forum is interested, I will keep you in the loop on progress and share pics and lessons learned. I have already put together a video of the plastic removal, as there was not a good one available for my model.

Greg

 

[jjc54]

Thank you for rescuing this bike. Smart to reset the clock on these maintenance items. Check the tires as many would say they have aged out. Do yourself a favor and put a set of non-Kenda tires on.

 

[AVBIZ]

Grabbing some popcorn and comfortable chair - who doesn’t like sitting and watching someone else work! Good luck on your rescue journey. My only advice would be to keep emotions out of it - these Can Ams are less about the mechanicals and more about the expensive electronics. Don’t be afraid to part with it before you go down an expensive rabbit hole. That said, I think the ST is the best looking Can Am.

 

[c5greg]

So all of my tune up parts have arrived. I’m still waiting on the damage repair parts.

Next challenge will be how to lift the Spyder safely and support it while I work. I'm looking at jack options. I have a couple of floor jacks, but not a motorcycle jack.

 

[mecsw500]

I'd get it up and running well, engine wise, before investing a lot of time with everything else. That should tell you the basic electronics regarding the engine are at least functioning correctly.

They are the best looking Spyder for sure.

 

[Nokesy]

I used three car ramps to get it up to where I could sit and get to most of the bike. When I needed to take the wheels off, I made some homemade screw jacks with brackets that fitted the frame. That way, the bike will be held sturdily and you'll be good take whatever you want off.

 

[Mrmikey]

Couple of ramps, you can either back up onto them or drive on, whichever way leaves them out of the way, then jack up the back end and put something under the rear tire. This is what I use when I'm changing the oil, the pieces on each end are so that it doesn't roll as I park it in the garage with the park brake off and use wheel chocks.
I'm looking forward to your work, I wish there was something available in my area to do the same to... Good luck.

 

[c5greg]

So a couple of setbacks. The first is that the machine still runs terrible with new gas, new fuel filter, and new plugs/wires. I don't know what else to look into but the injectors.

The next and most troubling thing is that the dash went out. I literally have had this trike running for a total of 5 minutes since I bought it and the screen, tach, and speedo suddenly went out. I checked the fuse and relay as well as the connector behind the dash with no luck.

I may have been scammed by the previous owner and am not sure on what to do next. I don't want to keep pouring good money into a disaster.

Any advice is appreciated.

 

[Mrmikey]

If it were me, I'd start with the basics.
Compression on all cylinders the same or close to?
With it running, remove the plug wire on each cylinder one at a time to see if it makes any difference to narrow down the cylinder if it is indeed one cylinder and not something common to all.
Do the same with the injectors, disable them one at a time (Not sure if this is doable on a Spyder?)
Remove the injectors and aim them at a piece of cardboard while cranking, is the spray pattern the same and no 'wet' streams instead of a nice spray.
Exhaust is not plugged or collapsed?
Battery voltage and capacity is withing specs? Funky voltage can do some weird things.

 

[Mikey]

Make sure that like @Mrmikey said above, the battery is up to snuff and good, you don't want to chase your tail; your Spyder will do some funky stuff if the battery is not up to full capacity.

 

[mecsw500]

Is the fuel pump providing enough fuel pressure or is it on the way out? Sitting for a long time doesn't always work out well for them.

Vacuum lines rot with age and leak. Spyders don't like that and they are cheap to replace. Notorious problem.

Battery? A good deal of Spyder issues come down to the battery. A new battery, fully charged before installation as a baseline. Yuasa USA battery if you can.

I'd replace all the vacuum lines to rule these things out and set a baseline.

It's got to be spark, gas, compression or vacuum leaks at the end of the day.

I'd do the vacuum lines anyway as they are likely old enough to be a problem even if it's five minutes down the line. Vacuum hose is cheap.

 

[Snoking1127]

 

[Peter Aawen]

As others have mentioned, maybe your battery is contributing to your problems??

For more info on this, you might want to check out this thread:

Thread 'Is my Battery failing? Or not?'

Jul 15, 2026

I hesitated to start a new thread on a subject that has permeated this site quite thoroughly but breaking into the middle of someone else's thread might not get the answer I'm looking for. A Yuasa 350cca battery was installed in my 2024 RT-L in October 2024. It has always been on a tender when not in use. I did not know of the requisite 8 hour charging prior to use at the time. The Spyder has always started quickly and reliably. Now I'm reading here that a battery is failing if cranking voltage drops below 11.9 V or so. I thought I'd better check mine so I took it off the tender for 24...

• amkrat
• Replies: 19
• Forum: Spyder RT - Touring

Or, you could always enter the word 'Battery' into the Search field (click on 'Search' up toward the top right of each page to get the search field) then check the 'Search titles only' box and submit the search before spending some time reading.

Sure, most of what you'll find is about 'other models' of Spyders, but on this particular subject, all Spyder models are pretty much the same, especially the bit about them being power hungry and that you need to see power very close to 12 V while the starter is actually cranking. Altho you should note that just like my 2013 RT, your 2014 ST runs the V-Twin motor which has a magneto style charging system, unlike the 1330 ACE Triple cylinder motors in the 2014 & on RT's & F3's, which all have an alternator. Still, since all Spyders ARE so power hungry, once you start seeing multiple codes, inexplicable engine running issues, &/or having the dash & gauges drop out, it's always a good idea to do a load test FIRST, as even just a slightly low battery charge can cause this sort of thing! Here's hoping that it is something this simple for you/your ST!

Good Luck!