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My MPG skyrocketed in ECO Mode - is ECO Mode really that much better?

CRSpyder3

Member
I have owned my F3S since April and just turned over 800 miles.

I have been stuck on 28MPG since I got the bike. Last week, I played around in Sport Mode and my MPG went to 25. I thought I was just being a hooligan. :cool:

Today, I ran in ECO Mode, a short ride, maybe 40-50 miles. I checked my MPG after and it was at 35MPG.

Non-scientific results are as follows:

3mths Normal Mode= 28MPG
1 week Sport Mode= 25MPG
1 day Eco Mode= 35MPG

I'm not complaining about any of these results, just wondering? Is my bike broken in? Am I less rowdy? Maybe I'm learning about better shift points, or is ECO Mode really that much better? IDK, any thoughts?
 
Your MPG will change more with full break-in of the engine than it will with a mode change. Plus to get an accurate MPG after any change in mode you need to drive a few hundred miles in that mode for it to mean anything.
 
If you only 'checked' your fuel consumption by reading the SWAG indication on the dash, then it's way too short of a ride to be truly considered valid, but it's a nice indicator of what your MPG might be when you check it properly by calculating the volume of fuel used in multiple fuel tank fills over a distance of at least a few hundred if not a few thousand miles. ;)

But if you actually did check it by calculating the volume of fuel used in multiple fuel tank fills over a considerable distance, but your Spyder has only done 800 miles total rather than saaayyy, 5,000; then not only do you still have at least a few thousand miles of skills fine-tuning to come, but it's STILL way too short of a ride to be truly considered valid, altho it is a nice indicator of what your MPG might become eventually when you do have those skills dialled in and you check it properly. 😆

However, it is very likely that your Spyder IS a little bit more 'Run in' (I really hope it's NOT 'broken in'!! 😖) and all the 'tightly fitted on manufacture' internal things (please excuse the highly technical term used there, for those specialised parts! :sneaky:) are beginning to bed in properly and so move a little bit better; AND highly likely that you're getting better at hitting the ideal shift points yourself/by feel/ear, even if aided in that by reducing the sensitivity of the throttle somewhat thru the use of ECO Mode. (y)

Only if your experience with this ECO Mode is anything like that of most who try it, then move on; while ECO Mode can help you initially to get a feel for &/or better at hitting the shift points, it's not really all that great a tool/aid, as all it really does is retard the throttle sensitivity so that you will never hit/get near WOT; and in time, most who have the self control to avoid wringing their engine's neck at every opportunity do generally get somewhat if not significantly better milage in due course by AVOIDING using ECO Mode entirely! ;)

But the SWAG indicator on the dash will never be anything but a SWAG, and not really ever a 'truly valid' indicator of your fuel consumption... But if you want to use it to confirm to yourself that you weren't being quite so much of a hooligan on your last ride/single tank full of gas, then it can do that well - just don't kid yourself that the number shown is going to really reflect an accurate calculation of fuel usage volume &/or distance travelled, cos it's basically an average of a bunch of instantaneous readings taken over who knows what time/operational parameters and there's even more 'woolly variables' built into your Spyder and its set-up of many things including saaay, its fuel delivery system; the tire size & yhe specified revs per mile they run; the air pressure in said tires & the impact that has on your distance travelled accuracy; and all sorts of other things. Sure, it could be good if all of those variables were identified &/or controlled/used in the calculations, but they're not, so you'll still get a much more accurate calculation derived from your odo/trip meter (or better yet, a GPS derived) 'Distance Travelled' and the vaguely calibrated fuel volume delivered from a variety of gas station pumps and running an ongoing calculation over months and miles - the longer the distance/greater the numbers of tanks full, the more realistic your results are going to be! :sneaky:

Just Sayin' ;)
 
My '20 RT MPG started in the mid-20s. I never use ECO. Over several thousand miles, the MPG crept up to the low-mid 30s with no changes in modes or type of riding. I should add, when I removed the Pedal Commander, my MPG went to high 30s. :rolleyes:
 
I have owned my F3S since April and just turned over 800 miles.

I have been stuck on 28MPG since I got the bike. Last week, I played around in Sport Mode and my MPG went to 25. I thought I was just being a hooligan. :cool:

Today, I ran in ECO Mode, a short ride, maybe 40-50 miles. I checked my MPG after and it was at 35MPG.

Non-scientific results are as follows:

3mths Normal Mode= 28MPG
1 week Sport Mode= 25MPG
1 day Eco Mode= 35MPG

I'm not complaining about any of these results, just wondering? Is my bike broken in? Am I less rowdy? Maybe I'm learning about better shift points, or is ECO Mode really that much better? IDK, any thoughts?
I did a video a few years ago about gas mileage - I rode from PA to Florida in one mode and back in another (regular and ECO, as I don't have Sport on my F3L).

The mileage in ECO was not significant enough of an increase for me to ever ride in ECO mode again, lol.
That was on my 2018. I will say that my 2023 gets a few miles per gallon more. I average between 35-37 mpg vs 34 on my 2018.
 
On both my 2018 RT's, I average 34-36 mpg, with most rides 150 to 180 miles. My two up mileage is similar to solo riding, as I ride more conservatively. My Arizona riding buddy gets a couple of mpg better all the time. He runs with his windshield lower, does not go vroom vroom on the on ramps like I do, pumps his Kenda tires to a much high pressure than I run in my car tires, and alternates between 87 and high rated gas every other fill up. I run 87.

I am not going to give up my vroom vroom for a couple more mpg.
 
I have found ECO mode helpful in a couple of situation's but as far as I am concerned doesn't seem to have any effect on mileage.

1. Rain, the less responsive throttle helps to keep from breaking traction in the rain from applying too much throttle.​
2. Driving in traffic or during groups rides where you are surrounded by vehicles and you want to maintain a safe distance.​
You can apply enough throttle to keep up with traffic and not have to apply your brakes or "run up" on the person in front of you because you went just a little too far on the throttle.​

As far as MPG is concerned, the only difference I see is between styles:
Go out on the highway and hammer it, mpg goes down;​
City driving, mpg goes down;​
Reasonable speeds on long back roads with no stops; MPG goes way up.​
 
Given the same ride, your Spyder still uses exactly the same energy (fuel) regardless of which mode you are in. Changing from ECO to Normal or even Sport only allows you to change your riding style/habits and the sensitivity of your bike. The different modes do not add or subtract horsepower. They just change the way the bike responds to your input.

After discovering that ECO mode just made my Spyder respond like a slug, I never used it again...
 
I appreciate everyone's comments to help me understand fuel economy.

I don't really need to concern myself in trying to wring out the last MPG. I only ride locally recreationally. I just thought that it was strange that I was getting an unwavering 28 MPG for months, then suddenly in one day it increased by 40%. Oh well, I'll take it.
 
I just did a 400 mile stint Saturday across South Dakota on Interstate 90. Posted speed is 80mph. That particular day had a very stout breeze out of the South. I was lucky to hit 25 mpg, with the mpg's dropping to around 20 mpg. I had to switch off ECO mode, as the bike didn't pull so well in the hills. Take a look at what the speed/wind combo did to my right side Show Chrome flag pole/mount compared to the left flag.

8a75f20c-774a-45bc-b930-9292af26148e.jpg - 7c04d9a2-1bf4-47c6-8602-9c8e58fade10.jpg - :(
 
I have owned my F3S since April and just turned over 800 miles.

I have been stuck on 28MPG since I got the bike. Last week, I played around in Sport Mode and my MPG went to 25. I thought I was just being a hooligan. :cool:

Today, I ran in ECO Mode, a short ride, maybe 40-50 miles. I checked my MPG after and it was at 35MPG.

Non-scientific results are as follows:

3mths Normal Mode= 28MPG
1 week Sport Mode= 25MPG
1 day Eco Mode= 35MPG

I'm not complaining about any of these results, just wondering? Is my bike broken in? Am I less rowdy? Maybe I'm learning about better shift points, or is ECO Mode really that much better? IDK, any thoughts?

I know that my 2023 F3 LTD does not have Sport mode (normal and Eco modes only), has this changed for the 2024 F3 S? Or has this model always had Sport mode?
 
You cannot depend on the MPG readings from the computer to determine how many miles you get per gallon. It will be an averaged number from widely varied conditions and all of the readings may not even be in the same mode as what you want to find the answer to. Each re-fueling is not going to be the same either.

The only way you will get anywhere near a correct miles per gallon reading is to do it the old fashion way. Write down the gallons from the reading on the pump. That will give you a fairly accurate volume. Then write down the mileage on the total miles meter from the dash display. You could use one of the trip odometers, but you are less likely to forget to re-set or write down the wrong miles if you just get all your miles readings from the total miles display. After the number of re-fills you use, just subtract the test start mileage from the test ending mileage and you will have the total miles you rode for the test. You still need an average, so do the calculations from 5 or 6 tanks full. When you divide the total number of miles you traveled for the calculation, by the total number of gallons of fuel used, you will get a fairly accurate idea of the MPGs. The fuel used will have the gallons, and tenths or hundredths, whatever the pump reads in. Adding all the re-fills to get total gallons used will be much more accurate than attempting to fill the tank back to the same level each time. That really can't be done.

The miles per gallon readings from the computer that displays on the dash is just a useless addition to further complicate and confuse people. It means nothing since you never burn the gas out to the same level each time or fill up to the same level each time either. You do not know what the beginning or the ending point the computer is using to calculate MPG from either. You can't get an accurate reading if you don't know when the calculations started or when they ended. You are dealing with some fantasy number that the computer spits out as the average MPG from when the miles started at zero. I have seen the same thing with the MPG readings on my truck. The miles per gallon reading drop way down when I am hauling trailer loads of hay in the summer, and it takes 4 or 5 months for them to go back to what they would normally read when not pulling the trailer. All of it is averaged in and the immediate gain in miles per gallon is not apparent as soon as you unhook the trailer. It gains back only a small portion of the good mileage each time you use it without the trailer, if you are going by the MPG readings on the dash display. The actual gain in good mileage is immediate, but that is not going to show up on the dash display. Another useless piece of technology to complicate something that is really simple and add to the cost of the new vehicles.

Forget about fantasy land and live in reality.
 
The only way you will get anywhere near a correct miles per gallon reading is to do it the old fashion way. Write down the gallons from the reading on the pump. That will give you a fairly accurate volume. Then write down the mileage on the total miles meter from the dash display.
And always use the same pump and the same time of day.
 
And always use the same pump and the same time of day.
Now that's experience talking! Also, DON'T fuel up at these new stations that have the high velocity pumps. Use the older mom & pop stations with the older style pumps, where you can dribble in the gas and get an absolutely FULL tank. I add one gallon after the auto shut off. You can stuff (dribble) in a gallon and a half if you have the patience and no one is waiting behind you to get gas. I consistently get 40 MPG at 60 MPH, both 1 & 2 up. You will gain or lose one MPG for each 1000 RPM's over or below 3,000 RMP's. I run ECO mode 90% of the time, and I have stage II. ECO simply slows the rate of fuel introduced into the cylinders, nothing more, nothing less, because basic fuel economy all begins at the wrist. I run 91 octane and carry a small bottle of BOOSTane with me in case I can't find 91.
 
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