Oil Change Question

[DougS]

Getting ready to change the oil and filter on a 2017 RT. Do all three wheels need to be on ramps with the entire bike raised and level, or just the front two on ramps with the rear on the ground?

Thanks,
Doug

 

[Gedge]

I just drive up on ramps. Plenty of room underneath and to get the plugs out. Seems to be enough to let all the oil out.

 

[JayBros]

No, you don't need to raise the rear wheel.

 

[Gwolf]

Probably could change it with just the ramps in front. Got lots more room under there if you jack the rear up some. Only takes a minute more.

 

[DougS]

Thanks for the quick responses!
/Doug

 

[carbonation]

No need to raise the rear unless you want to.
Trans side you can pull quick, the engine side I pull partway, walk away and let it drain slow.
If you pull it quick, oil will get inside the cover on the bottom of the frame and drip for days.

 

[DougS]

I went ahead and also used my floor jack on the rear. It did make it easier, particularly for the first change. I also replaced the drain plugs with the Dimple plugs. Much better than stock, no worries about them stripping.

Doug

 

[Little Blue]

Oil Change

HEY, Glad it all worked well for you......:thumbup:

 

[ReRose]

What is a dimple plug?

 

[Peter Aawen]

What is a dimple plug?

It's not a 'dimple plug' so much as a 'Dimple Plug'; which is a magnetic drain plug for your sump/oil reservoir that's made & sold by a mob called 'Dimple Products Inc' Check 'em out here:

https://drainplugmagnets.com

:cheers:

 

[Snoking1127]

I did my first oil change on our new to us 2018 RTL. My car port way slops slightly to the street. I made little ramps out of 2x6s so the front wheels raised up 3" and the rear 2.25". I backed the Spyder into the car port and then drove up on the ramps. I had ample room to work under the trike. What I failed to realize was the it also sloped off two the right side of the trike and draining the transmission near the end caused the oil to hit the belly pan next to the drain plug and oil ran forward on the pan and dripped out a hole in the front of it. So I jacked up the side and added another 2x6 under that wheel, to finish the transmission drain.

Both of the drain plugs seemed much tighter than the torque specs when removing them. I made a funnel out out of a water bottle, and next time(next year) I will have a better one for that oil change.

I put in Rotella T6 oil and used the filter kit from Lamonster Garage. 5.25 quarts appears to have it right at the top mark. The transmission magnet had a small amount of metal pieces on it, which I wiped off.

Original owner said he changed the oil at 3K and the trike had 5450 on it when I bought it. The oil change I did was at 6125, and now I can do oil changes on my own known schedule.

I have always done my own oil changes, and this was not that bad and next time will be even easier. On my 2015 RAM diesel I do it from the top removing the turbo intake hose between the filter box and the turbo inlet. Removing the Spyder tupperware is easier than the air intake on the RAM.

I did a ten mile test run to test things out. Shifts seem nice and smooth on the road. When it is cool and idling at higher RPMs it still clucks pretty hard going into first or reverse. Once it is warmed up and idling around 800 RPM gear engagement is pretty quiet/smooth.

Cost $38.33 for oil and $15.95 for Filter kit, so $54.28 or one half the price of BRP oil change kit. And I know it was done to "my" standards and care, with things torqued to factory specs.

Motor on!!!

 

[Possible]

You might shop around, when I bought the last bottle of T6 a couple months ago, it was $23 for a gallon. At Advance Auto Parts.

 

[JayBros]

The transmission will always "clunk" when going from neutral to either first or reverse. It is a constant mesh transmission and they all do that; is no cause for alarm. Now that you've done your first oil change, the Spyder's regular change is 9,300 miles or one year, whichever comes first. Changing it more frequently is unnecessarily spending time and money you don't need to on routine maintenance IMO. If you want to know how the oil is performing go to a Napa auto parts store and get an oil analysis kit: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FIL4077. The price of the kit includes the analysis.

 

[Snoking1127]

You might shop around, when I bought the last bottle of T6 a couple months ago, it was $23 for a gallon. At Advance Auto Parts.

Yes, I bought one gallon jug and two quart bottles plus tax. I used 5.25 quarts of the 6 purchased. Next time I will just buy 5 quarts.

 

[sgerksinwi]

Where is the best place to jack up the rear.
Fram or shock mount

 

[Possible]

I didn't jack up the rear when I did Peggy's 2013 STS-SM5, just reversed up on the ramps. Didn't see any reason to jack up
the rear.

I did jack up the rear to set the belt tension, and I jacked on the frame.

 

[FlyBoy2121]

oil change

I Guys !

I made 3 wooden blocks, to mount the front I use my car ramps, for the rear with my jack. :thumbup:

FlyBoy2121

 

[volksbugusa]

Doug what oil kit did you decide to go with? for my 2018 rt i am being told to buy this kit Can-Am 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Blend Oil Change Kit for Rotax 1330 engine 779249 DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW MANY QUARTS ARE IN THE KIT..THANKS

 

[Possible]

You can get the kits for the 1330 cc engine from BajaRon, one of the forum sponsors. It comes will all the necessary filters,
O-rings, and oil. And it helps support our sponsors.

 

[volksbugusa]

i want to use the stock kit...799249..i am trying to find out how many quarts of oil are packed in it.