1330cc RPM shift points

[VegasDan]

Ok, I have had my 2021 Spyder RT Limited for about a month and 1000 miles now.
Have stopped looking the front brake lever and have started the process of spending money on things to make it mine.
But I am still wondering about RPM ranges and shift points.
I have followed the simply hold the throttle position and shift directions that I have read here and elsewhere (instead of roll off to shift like a manual clutched bike) but excepting the 3400 - 4400 rpm range the gear change is noticibly jarring (smooth as silk in that range).
So...
1. In normal riding (not hard acceleration) where (rpm) are you shifting?
2. Above the 4400 rpm range; is the computerized electronic throttle rolloff and re-engagement expected to be jarring?
3. What rpm range do you attempt to keep the engine within while steady state cruising? I find myself wanting to get to top gear and then realizing (around town speeds) that I am too far out of the powerband for immediate response.

I have no issue with rpm if I should be winding a little higher - my wife appreciates the smoother (less to and fro) shifts at lower rpm.
But I also want to break in and make sure I am operating the bike for its optimum performance.

Thanks

 

[RICZ]

The secret to smooth shifts is hold the throttle absolutely still when shifting - do not close the throttle when upshifting. It's OK to close it when downshifting to a stop. I assume you have a semi auto, you didn't say.
When accelerating hard, you can grab over 6K RPMs.

 

[crtsteve55]

VegasDan
I shift per road conditions and down shift rather than braking. In reading much I think the rotax engine should be reved and shift around 5500 rpm. My fuel mileage dropped using that method. I shift at lower rpm and don’t roll off for a shift either up or down. My Spyder likes a steady state ride for best mileage. Don’t know any other results from the long term riders on this forum.

 

[Piratezz]

When cruisin, I keep the rev's around 2500 rpm, upshift to cruising speeds just around the 3000/3500 rpm's, whilst driving solo, rpm's usually lies around the 5000 rpm's
the 1330 is a mighty motor, and likes it both ways, It loves to cruise, but also wants to be drivin hard... depends on the mood you're in...

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

For normal cruising ... I use 2500 to 2700 RPM's ..... Mike :thumbup:

 

[ARtraveler]

The "sweet spot" for our spyders (1330's) is around 3500 rpm's. The 5500 shift range was for the 990/998's.

I find smooth, noiseless shifting when shifting in that range. I let my spyder downshift at will. I try to run 3500 in all gears, except for sixth. Based on the speed over 55, the rpm's will go where they want. Best mileage is maintained by keeping it in the 3500 rpm range. I get high 30's/low 40's on mine all the time.

 

[Jetfixer]

I too, shift at about the 3000 mark. Do a search here for the 1330 torque chart. You'll find there's no reason to constantly wind this engine out. The vast majority of the torque comes on earlier than you'd think. After awhile, you won't even look at the rpms when doing normal driving; you'll shift by sound and feel.

 

[2dogs]

:agree: Absolutely, sound and feel.

 

[redrazor]

For normal cruising ... I use 2500 to 2700 RPM's ..... Mike :thumbup:

:cheers: :agree: hardly ever go past 3,500 RPM ... unless I'm getting on a freeway on ramp with cars going by at 70+mph :yikes:

 

[JayBros]

I strongly suggest you thoroughly read your operator's guide. The 1330 engine is not going to let you lug it so it will not let you upshift below the rpm points the engine control module is programmed to for each gear.

 

[2dogs]

If you like shifting above 3500, say 6500. Get stage 2 and a seatbelt to go with it. :yikes: hyea:

 

[Quickdraw]

My dealer recommended 3100 rpm's, but I've found that around 3500 is the smoothest. When cruising at a constant speed, I stay around 27 to 2800. It's all about feel, and what riding style is right for you.

 

[PaladinLV]

For normal traffic in city 3000

AJ

 

[T.P.]

Just some numbers here, Your stock 1330 has a redline of 8100rpm, by adding a PV3 you go to 8400rpm. Now with the Monster flash 1&2 your at 8600 to 9200rpms.
your not going to break it, But it's there if you need it! your gas milage will suffer the more you twist it.

I'm guessing that most people will never hit that 8100 and those with the monsters don't always go to the top. Just ride it and don't worry about RPM's

T.P.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Just some numbers here, Your stock 1330 has a redline of 8100rpm, by adding a PV3 you go to 8400rpm. Now with the Monster flash 1&2 your at 8600 to 9200rpms.
your not going to break it, But it's there if you need it! your gas milage will suffer the more you twist it.

I'm guessing that most people will never hit that 8100 and those with the monsters don't always go to the top. Just ride it and don't worry about RPM's

T.P.

My experience is a bit different .... I've drag raced my 14 RT at a track and found that 6000 rpm's was the sweet spot for up-shifting. .... after 6000 the torque curve was dropping, so the gain in HP didn't improve things ..... my 11 RSS V-twin was different .... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[Raven]

My experience is a bit different .... I've drag raced my 14 RT at a track and found that 6000 rpm's was the sweet spot for up-shifting. .... after 6000 the torque curve was dropping, so the gain in HP didn't improve things ..... my 11 RSS V-twin was different .... JMHO .... Mike :thumbup:

Torque gets you there, HP keeps you there.

 

[JayBros]

This is history but perhaps of use as general knowledge.

 

[WingManDan]

I have to agree and slightly disagree with some of the advice. I also listened to others when I first got a spyder and I kept the throttle steady when up-shifting. I found that was fine for gentle and normal acceleration. If you are pulling hard there can be quite a clunk when up-shifting. It may not hurt it but I don't like it. If I want to accelerate hard I will roll off the throttle a bit just before up-shifting. Once you learn the timing the shift is smooth with no clunk. As far as RPM, I don't worry about it. Stay in the power band and it will feel fine. Not good to lug it and no need to rev it to redline.

 

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I have to agree and slightly disagree with some of the advice. I also listened to others when I first got a spyder and I kept the throttle steady when up-shifting. I found that was fine for gentle and normal acceleration. If you are pulling hard there can be quite a clunk when up-shifting. It may not hurt it but I don't like it. If I want to accelerate hard I will roll off the throttle a bit just before up-shifting. Once you learn the timing the shift is smooth with no clunk. As far as RPM, I don't worry about it. Stay in the power band and it will feel fine. Not good to lug it and no need to rev it to redline.

Read my post #$ 15 above ( I never roll off the throttle - " you snooze you lose " in Drag Racing :roflblack:...... if you are encountering a loud clunking I think something is failing in your transmission ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

 

[WingManDan]

Read my post #$ 15 above ( I never roll off the throttle - " you snooze you lose " in Drag Racing :roflblack:...... if you are encountering a loud clunking I think something is failing in your transmission ..... good luck .... Mike :thumbup:

Yeah, to each their own. There is nothing wrong with my transmission. I'm just offering a different perspective to the OP. I like the smooth way it shifts better under hard acceleratinon if I coordinate a quick throttle reduction when hitting the shift button, especially 2 up. Not trying to be a drag racer, just enjoy the ride.