Ryker turning left Issues

[WhiteCat]

How did you zero the YAW Sensor?
I have the same problems and in BUDS2 I could only find the possibility to zero the SAS but not the YAW itself. There is an additional line right above the SAS zeroing but in my BUDS2 this line is called 'longitudinal sensor'. When zeroing this one, BUDS2 tells you to sit on the bike, and I did that. But still the sensor readings shown for longitudinal and lateral yaw are not at zero but -0.5 and -0.1.
I could not find a possibility to zero both of them.

 

[gbyoung2]

@WhiteCat, If I'm correct, it's not called the YAW, but longitude or something like that. IIRC, it's directly under the SAS setting adjustment.

 

[WhiteCat]

Thanks for the quick reply @gbyoung2.
That's what I was wondering about, because in 'live view', there are four lines to select which are called 'longitudinal', 'lateral', 'SAS', and 'YAW rate', and they show the actual sensor readings. But when searching for zeroing them, there are only those two lines for SAS and Longitudinal. No line or opportunity for 'lateral' or 'YAW'. So I am not sure what is all zeroed, when zeroing this line called 'longitudinal'.

Another question about the SAS repair kit 219800513:
Are the original bearings pressed into the aluminum bearing support, so they have to be pressed out and in again, or can they easily be changed by hand without tools?
I ordered the kit, but until now, did not have the courage to do the repair job.

 

[gbyoung2]

@WhiteCat, the bearings are a slip fit in the bore of the aluminum Pitman arm support. However, they are pressed onto the shaft on the Pitman arm, and the same shaft that the SAS sleeve is mounted in. The hard part is getting those bearings off the shaft without causing any damage to the end of the shaft where the sleeve goes. You need a smallish bearing splitter-type puller, or some other suitable bearing puller, with some kind of adapter that the puller can press on without causing any damage.

Once off, you can use a hair dryer or a low wattage heat gun to heat the inner races of the new bearings to where they are hot to the touch. Doing so will allow them to fall right into place as you build up the stack in the order called out in the instructions. Just don't fool around after you get the bearings up to temperature. The varied spacers simply slip into place on the shaft; no heat needed.

Should a bearing cool too quickly and only go on part way, you can use a deep well socket against the inner race to drive it the rest of the way into place. Just be sure the socket has a clear bore so it won't contact and damage the end of the shaft where the sleeve goes.

FWIW - I'm a noob with BUDS2 too, so I'm still feeling my way around with it.

Hope this helps.