Ryker turning left Issues

[WhiteCat]

How did you zero the YAW Sensor?
I have the same problems and in BUDS2 I could only find the possibility to zero the SAS but not the YAW itself. There is an additional line right above the SAS zeroing but in my BUDS2 this line is called 'longitudinal sensor'. When zeroing this one, BUDS2 tells you to sit on the bike, and I did that. But still the sensor readings shown for longitudinal and lateral yaw are not at zero but -0.5 and -0.1.
I could not find a possibility to zero both of them.

 

[gbyoung2]

@WhiteCat, If I'm correct, it's not called the YAW, but longitude or something like that. IIRC, it's directly under the SAS setting adjustment.

 

[WhiteCat]

Thanks for the quick reply @gbyoung2.
That's what I was wondering about, because in 'live view', there are four lines to select which are called 'longitudinal', 'lateral', 'SAS', and 'YAW rate', and they show the actual sensor readings. But when searching for zeroing them, there are only those two lines for SAS and Longitudinal. No line or opportunity for 'lateral' or 'YAW'. So I am not sure what is all zeroed, when zeroing this line called 'longitudinal'.

Another question about the SAS repair kit 219800513:
Are the original bearings pressed into the aluminum bearing support, so they have to be pressed out and in again, or can they easily be changed by hand without tools?
I ordered the kit, but until now, did not have the courage to do the repair job.

 

[gbyoung2]

@WhiteCat, the bearings are a slip fit in the bore of the aluminum Pitman arm support. However, they are pressed onto the shaft on the Pitman arm, and the same shaft that the SAS sleeve is mounted in. The hard part is getting those bearings off the shaft without causing any damage to the end of the shaft where the sleeve goes. You need a smallish bearing splitter-type puller, or some other suitable bearing puller, with some kind of adapter that the puller can press on without causing any damage.

Once off, you can use a hair dryer or a low wattage heat gun to heat the inner races of the new bearings to where they are hot to the touch. Doing so will allow them to fall right into place as you build up the stack in the order called out in the instructions. Just don't fool around after you get the bearings up to temperature. The varied spacers simply slip into place on the shaft; no heat needed.

Should a bearing cool too quickly and only go on part way, you can use a deep well socket against the inner race to drive it the rest of the way into place. Just be sure the socket has a clear bore so it won't contact and damage the end of the shaft where the sleeve goes.

FWIW - I'm a noob with BUDS2 too, so I'm still feeling my way around with it.

Hope this helps.

 

[greer]

We didn't have a puller of any sort. If I remember correctly, we put the pitman arm in a vise and used a heavy screwdriver and long steel tire iron to wedge the bearings off. The actual wedging was done by one with considerable muscle and heft, I was mostly on the sideline. That was the only part of the job that was over my head. Have a plan for the bearings, @WhiteCat, and you'll be fine.

Sarah

 

[WhiteCat]

Hope this helps.

Yes, this helps me a lot and I can prepare the stuff I need, thanks for the explanations.

When looking at the instructions for the repair kit, I wondered if it would really be neccessary to remove so many parts (radiator and so on). I thought it could be possible to remove the pitman arm with the bearings only by disconnecting the intermediate rod and the RH tie rod from it.
I did an extensive search and at NHTSA, I found a bulletin which exactly shows this easier way with a total repair time of 1.8 hours (see link).
So I wonder why there are two so different instructions.
Do you think it could be done the easy way like discribed in the bulletin?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2025/MC-11015830-0001.pdf

 

[WhiteCat]

Have a plan for the bearings, @WhiteCat, and you'll be fine.

Thanks for the reply, I will get a set of pullers to be prepared and then I will do the job over the next weeks.
Michael

 

[gbyoung2]

Yes, this helps me a lot and I can prepare the stuff I need, thanks for the explanations.

When looking at the instructions for the repair kit, I wondered if it would really be neccessary to remove so many parts (radiator and so on). I thought it could be possible to remove the pitman arm with the bearings only by disconnecting the intermediate rod and the RH tie rod from it.
I did an extensive search and at NHTSA, I found a bulletin which exactly shows this easier way with a total repair time of 1.8 hours (see link).
So I wonder why there are two so different instructions.
Do you think it could be done the easy way like discribed in the bulletin?

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2025/MC-11015830-0001.pdf

I hadn't seen that publication before and just followed the lengthy PITA one because I didn't figure the arm would be able to clear all the other stuff so it could be removed. Just removing the lower steering link nut was a bear to get adequate access so it could be loosened (it's tight) and removed. I would also be concerned about damaging the radiator without getting it out of the way. Adequate working clearance without removing the electrical tray is also questionable.

Not sure about that bulletins note about not needing the thin P2 spacer in MY 22 and up. I was under the impression that the lack of it was a potential cause of the wear on the sleeve and the reason they supposedly started doing that update at the factory in 2022. My '22 Sport did not have that thin spacer; it does now.

I can only suggest you try the "quick way" and see if it works for you. Personally, I think that 1.8 labor time is laughable, even in pristine conditions. Please let us know how it goes.

 

[gbyoung2]

We didn't have a puller of any sort. If I remember correctly, we put the pitman arm in a vise and used a heavy screwdriver and long steel tire iron to wedge the bearings off. The actual wedging was done by one with considerable muscle and heft, I was mostly on the sideline. That was the only part of the job that was over my head. Have a plan for the bearings, @WhiteCat, and you'll be fine.

Sarah

I "looked" at using that method but was concerned about inadvertently tweaking the arm and rod alignment the bearings were mounted on. I had the proper pullers so just used them.

 

[greer]

I’m thinking the bulletin says omit the spacer because it’s assumed the spacer is already there in the ‘22 and up bikes, which we know is not the case.

Sarah

 

[gbyoung2]

I’m thinking the bulletin says omit the spacer because it’s assumed the spacer is already there in the ‘22 and up bikes, which we know is not the case.

Sarah

That's what I was thinking too.