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Screwed up something

pitzerwm

New member
I installed some new lights and cleaned up the rat's nest wiring from previous mods. I also changed the air cleaner. When I turn the key on it goes thru the initiation, but keeps resetting or goes blank. Looking at a voltage reader plugged in a power plug, shows the voltage dropping to 5V. When I turn it off the battery goes back to 12.8V

With a full size charger on it, I got an High Battery, an ABS fault, a VSS fault, a EBD fault, and check transmission.

I double checked all of the wiring and no shorts but it looks like a massive voltage drop when I turn on the key. I was paying attention to all plugs/connections so I don't think that I unplugged anything.

I did short the battery for a milli second, is that possible that I blew something inside the battery?

Thanks
 
I am a electronic Tec and most of the time is something I did , so undo any thing you did and start from the beginning.
 
I removed the battery and my new fuse block. I connected a battery charger for 12V. It still acts the same. I tried the reset procedure put the mode button on hours, and flash the headlights 5 times. Nothing. When you try to start it, the cluster resets to "startup". I still get The ABS, VSS, EBD and check transmission.

I've looked at any plugs that I might have disturbed I see nothing.

When I said I reset the faults, I was wrong, still looking in the book on how to do that. I did the 5 flashes to check faults, nothing new showed up.

I did remove the front tires to add lights on the fender, but I checked the "speed sensors" on all three tires there is a clearance and the wiring looks fine.
 
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Not good..

if your dropping from 12.8 to 5 you are sending your sending your voltage to ground. Some connection is crossed. Led are polar sensetive and need to be hooked up poitive to power and negative to ground. Regular bulbs work either way. As for the instument pane it dosen't take much to makeit go crazy when messing with the electrics. Not knowing what all was done the best advise, as mentioned above, start over. You or the instructions have gone astray...:thumbup:
 
I installed some new lights and cleaned up the rat's nest wiring from previous mods. I also changed the air cleaner. When I turn the key on it goes thru the initiation, but keeps resetting or goes blank. Looking at a voltage reader plugged in a power plug, shows the voltage dropping to 5V. When I turn it off the battery goes back to 12.8V

With a full size charger on it, I got an High Battery, an ABS fault, a VSS fault, a EBD fault, and check transmission.

I double checked all of the wiring and no shorts but it looks like a massive voltage drop when I turn on the key. I was paying attention to all plugs/connections so I don't think that I unplugged anything.

I did short the battery for a milli second, is that possible that I blew something inside the battery?

Thanks

You might have overcharged the battery. How many amps does your charger use to charge the battery? You can have the battery tested at a Auto Zone store. Overcharging usually burns out a battery.

Mike
 
if your dropping from 12.8 to 5 you are sending your sending your voltage to ground. Some connection is crossed. Led are polar sensetive and need to be hooked up poitive to power and negative to ground. Regular bulbs work either way. As for the instument pane it dosen't take much to makeit go crazy when messing with the electrics. Not knowing what all was done the best advise, as mentioned above, start over. You or the instructions have gone astray...:thumbup:

Thanks, you were right I relied on BRP to always have black as ground. Not so in the tip lights which I used for a new mudflap LED, running and turn signal. Both sides were wrong.

I have them disconnected and my resistance Hot to ground was 16meg now is 0.0. However the problem is still there when you turn it on. I took the battery to be checked and it only had 9 volts and of course they said buy a new one. I was using a charger that had 17V and it gave me "HI Battery Voltage. I'm charging the battery with a tender, and will see if it holds a charge.

Is there a way to "clear" these faults because I disconnected everything that I had added, and still shows the faults. Could I have blown something?
 
What new LEDS did you install?
some say they will work for the head lights gut they will not.

I was adding running/brake LEDs on the rear fender, then a LED yellow strip(turn signal) from the tip lights and a LED rectangle on the front mud flaps that will be running/signal.

I have already added 4 20W LED spots, which really work making you seen from the front.
 
Did you do the good old key walk...? Remove the key walk away then return. Do this after you have a good battery installed. Should clear or you may need buds...
 
Did you do the good old key walk...? Remove the key walk away then return. Do this after you have a good battery installed. Should clear or you may need buds...

I did do the key walk. I put my battery back in, put the tender on it awhile, read 13.0 let it set a half hour, checked, 12.8, tried to start it, battery dropped to 5.8, so I'm thinking a new battery. I hope that I didn't kill anything else. I might jump it with my car as it should be about 12-13V see what happens.

Any brand of battery that is better than the OEM Yuasa High Performance Maintenance Free Battery - YTX24HL?
 
Screwed up Something?

I'd save some time and take the battery to be load tested at AUTO ZONE or some other car parts dealer before I tried jumping with a large current capacity car battery. If there is something wrong with your wiring or have damaged the electronics, connecting to a car battery could result in a fire or more extensive damage to the electronic modules. Your battery may well have a high resistance cell and the open circuit unloaded voltage would likely be 12.6 or so and drop to a few volts when loaded, Load test the battery before you go further. Charging a battery that requires a Max Charge rate of 1 Amp with a higher charge rate will short one or more cells, similarly shorting the battery even for a short time may cause cells to open either way the battery is toast, have it checked!
 
Battery is only picking up a surface charge. Have always used yuasa, never let me down but there are others out there. once you have a good battery in there you should be fine and ready to start over....like you save on a computer...test at each step...
 
Battery is only picking up a surface charge. Have always used yuasa, never let me down but there are others out there. once you have a good battery in there you should be fine and ready to start over....like you save on a computer...test at each step...

The battery is a Yuasa. I might have killed it, when I accidently shorted it out for a mini sec, or over charged it. Just hoping that I didn't blow anything else.

Yuasa the best or a lithium ion worth the extra?
 
Let's see..!!

some lithium ion batteries do not fare well with big twin engines. But many are using them cause they are lighter (not enough for the price) smaller (you have to pad them or they will rattle in there) and they are better (but not in all cases). Check all fuses and relays, don't think you did any damage what with all the safety on these machines. Never checked if Die Hard or Interstate carry this model..good luck:thumbup:
 
Success

Mercerlake hit it on the head along with Chupaca. I had either fried the battery or it was time to die. :banghead::banghead:

New battery, all is well, other than now back to installing the LEDs. Will post the results over in the Mod's threads. Thanks for all of the help and suggestions. Like most of you guys that do your own even the screw ups you learn something which is always valuable. If not for you one of us.
 
Hi pitzerwm,

Re: even the screw ups you learn something which is always valuable.

BTDT. And these are usually the lessons we never forget.

Glad you're up and going again,

Jerry Baumchen
 
Just ran through this thread. Great help, also I learned my fear of electricity is well founded and I keep learning to leave to the professionals.


Another Day To Be My Kid's Dad [emoji379]
 
Just ran through this thread. Great help, also I learned my fear of electricity is well founded and I keep learning to leave to the professionals.

Turned out that I had not wired anything backwards. Toasting the battery created all of the issues. LEDs come with a red and black wire usually, RED goes to the positive side and black is to negative/ground. If the wires are not red and black then they have some color so you know which one is positive. As far as the bike is concerned the black one is negative/ground, the positive is a variety of colors.It appears that if you just add LEDs to the mix the nanny doesn't see them. If they are on their own circuit, nanny never sees them.

In this case I cleaned up my wiring and ran a #8 positive from the battery to a fuse block to handle everything that I added. I added switches for my additions, so I didn't need to worry about the key on or not. When I start the bike I flip on the switches that I want on and when I turn it off I turn them off.

In the Mod's threads I have pixs. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/showthread.php?75970-Nothing-spectacular-just-making-it-mine
 
Hi pitzerwm,

Re: even the screw ups you learn something which is always valuable.

BTDT. And these are usually the lessons we never forget.

Glad you're up and going again,

Jerry Baumchen

Other than the cost to undo/redo/take it to the "dealer" I have never feared screwups. When everything goes right you usually learn nothing and just get arrogant.
 
Great news..!!

glad your up and running once again. Nice that you got all the hook ups hooked up the world is right again...letting us know confirms the awesomeness of this site...:2thumbs::ohyea::ohyea:
 
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