Spyder wheel alinement using table lift

[Lamonster]

Got to use the lift table to do Ron's alinement yesterday and it worked pretty darn slick. We changed out the SAS and changed all the plastic bushings along with new tie rods. We were able to use the lazer on the side of the frame to establish centerline and then clamp my level to the table to pull measurements. The toe in is set at 3/32" and has a +- of 1/16" but we were able to get it dead on. I just love working off a lift table. :thumbup:

 

[JCSMOKE]

Cool, I'm looking for a way to do that without removing the floorboards. 2 hours work for a 20 min alignment does not appeal to me

 

[Lamonster]

Cool, I'm looking for a way to do that without removing the floorboards. 2 hours work for a 20 min alignment does not appeal to me

You're going to need BUDS after you do the alinement and if it was very far out you might have a limp mode code. Ron's was in limp mode till we reset the SAS and torque sensor.

 

[Firefly]

Cool stuff. Did you use the laser to center the bars to the center frame then.. from the centerline on the bars?

 

[Lamonster]

Cool stuff. Did you use the laser to center the bars to the center frame then.. from the centerline on the bars?

I wound up using a straightedge off the bars to center of the frame.

 

[Firefly]

I wound up using a straightedge off the bars to center of the frame.

Sometimes old-school is just better.... ;-)

 

[BajaRon]

Alignment went pretty smoothly. We had to tear off the front of the Spyder anyway to replace the 16 A-Arm bushings, 2-Tie Rods and it made putting the old Evoluzione sway bar back on easier (since the 1st run of bars I had made were a 'Fail').

I'm sure going to invest in some 45 deg zerks for those A-Arms. I highly recommend a regular maintenance schedule for lubing the A-Arms. Bushings are not cheap and it takes a bit of effort to replace them. There is no way you can align anything if they are worn.

The real story, though, is Lamont's AWESOME Spyder lift. That made a big job much smaller, easier, and a lot more fun.

Thanks for the help Lamont!

The BUDS Overall RPM Chart was pretty interesting. I should have gotten a screen shot of that! :banghead:

 

[wyliec]

Ron,

I think your alignment may be a little off. The IPS was just left of center.

 

[BajaRon]

Ron,

I think your alignment may be a little off. The IPS was just left of center.

My Gosh! You're right! We didnt' take that into consideration and BUDS didn't say a thing about it either! I'll set up another appointment with Lamont's Front End Shop tomorrow. I'm sure he can squeeze me in!

 

[JCSMOKE]

You're going to need BUDS after you do the alinement and if it was very far out you might have a limp mode code. Ron's was in limp mode till we reset the SAS and torque sensor.

:yikes::gaah:damn you nanny!

 

[BajaRon]

:yikes::gaah:damn you nanny!

Give her a break... She means well!

 

[BajaRon]

Ron,
what happened? we have offered our help from Australia, I know it's a long way, but!? It's available if you still need it!

Regards Rabbit and Julie (wespydservices.com)

I appreciate it. The problem, I think, was an over confident salesman. He bent up a bar by hand to 'Match' the bar I sent him. That 2nd bar went to production and the original bar came back to me (so I could ride my Spyder!). I never received a sample to test before the production run (big mistake).

Well, the salesman's 'Perfectly Bent Bar' was matched exactly in production, but his bar was off about 3/8". On a regular automobile there is usually a lot of room and 3/8" isn't a big deal. But not so on the Spyder.

The company has taken back the first run and are making another run which I have been assured will be right. The CEO of the company called me to discuss the problem, which I thought was a nice gesture.

Everyone makes mistakes, including me. It's what happens after the error that makes all the difference.

 

[BajaRon]

I have gotten an education on the front end alignment project. It was more than a front end alignment because we replaced all 16 of the A-Arm bushings plus installing 2 new tie rods on as well.

Initial findings.

1- Had vibration in the front end (I thought was tire balance) - Status: Cured
2- Spyder 'Hunted' a bit on the road before - Status: Cured
3- Spyder would drift if I let go of the handlebars - Statue: Much more directionally stable
4- Turn Signals would not Cancel automatically on left hand turns - Status: Cured

Good tight A-Arm bushings make all the difference in the world. Unless I had very low mileage on the front end I would certainly spend the extra money to replace all 16 A-Arm bushings before doing a front end alignment. Otherwise, there is a good chance you are wasting your money.

Tie rods should be checked as soon as you think there might be an issue of any kind with the front end. And after hitting anything substantial with the front wheels.

My Spyder feels brand new! Front end alignment well worth the effot.

 

[BajaRon]

I don't want to be replacing the A-Arm bushings (or cushions, whatever) any sooner than I need to. I am pretty impressed with Amsoil products (it happens), so I'm going to give their Super Duper Synthetic Grease a try. It sounds like an improvement over the standard fare and price isn't too bad. It looks like about $9.50 for 3- 3 oz. cartridges or $6.50 for 1- 14 oz. cartridge + shipping. I like the 3 oz. cartridges. Dispite the cost they are more convenient and the smaller pumps are easier to get into tight places.

Now to change out the OEM zerks for 90 degree parts.

Application Recommendation
AMSOIL Synthetic Multi-Purpose Grease is the preferred choice for medium to high ambient temperatures including sleeve-type bushings, roller bearings, plain bearings, thrust bearings, wheel bearings, chassis lubrication, universal joints, ball joints, tie-rod ends, steering knuckles, high shock-loading environments and wet environments.