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Torque Wrench

SpydherLuv

New member
I know my way around tools pretty well, but am a bit of a rookie when it comes to buying a torque wrench. I understand how they're used, but am clueless as far as what I should have in my toolbox.

I'm planning to do most, if not all, of the maintenance on my '09 SM5 and believe a torque wrench is a must-have. I'm looking for some help and/or guidance on the different types out there and which ones everyone else uses.

The first thing I need advice with is which torque wrench do I need? I'm thinking a wrench with Nm would be good according to the below BRP torque ratings.
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Anyone have any preferences and know where I can pick one up for under $100?

I appreciate your time in helping me with this. :helpsmilie:
 
You need at least a 1/4" torque wrench, and a 3/8" torque wrench.

The problem is the range that you need.

You need 16 lb/In to 305 lbs/feet or in metric 1.8 Newton*Meter to 413 N*m

And you live in the US where metric is hard to find.

I suggest you go to Lowes or Homedepot and look for the following
a 1/4 that is in LBS/In
and a 3/8" that is in LBS/Ft

If you get a decent brand like husky, it will be sold as imperial units, but if you turn it over you will see the metric measurements also.;)

Andy
 
You will find that you will need two torque wrenches, 1/4" drive - inch lbs and 3/8 drive foot lbs. This should take care of all of your torque wrench needs.
 
I have seldom found use for a 1/4" drive torque wrench. I use 3/8" and 1/2" models on the Spyders. I prefer the ratcheting type, which allow you to work "blind". Sears Craftsman units are accurate and reliable. The Sears units read in both Nm and either lbf-ft or lbf-in. Be sure to back down a ratcheting torque wrench before you store it, or the spring will take a set and it will eventually read wrong. Testing them against beam-type torque wrenches periodically is a good idea, too.
 
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I have seldom found use for a 1/4" drive torque wrench. I use 3/8" and 1/2" models on the Spyders. I prefer the ratcheting type, which allow you to work "blind". Sears Craftsman units are accurate and reliable. The Sears units read in both Nm and either lbf-ft or inf-ft. Be sure to back down a ratcheting torque wrench before you store it, or the spring will take a set and it will eventually read wrong. Testing them against beam-type torque wrenches periodically is a good idea, too.

Snap-on has some new models that you can just leave at any tension... buddy was telling me about them the other day... :2thumbs:
 
You guys are awesome!! Thank you all! Since I don't have any 1/2" sockets, I'll need to look for 1/4" & 3/8" wrenches. Let the shopping begin....:D

I knew I should have bought more tools when I worked for Snap-on.:gaah:
 
You guys are awesome!! Thank you all! Since I don't have any 1/2" sockets, I'll need to look for 1/4" & 3/8" wrenches. Let the shopping begin....:D

I knew I should have bought more tools when I worked for Snap-on.:gaah:

Since everything on Spyder you need to torque is ft.lbs I would go with a 1/2" torque wrench and use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I also have a 3/8 torque
wrench I used when rebuilding Outboard engines in inch lbs, most torque settings on aluminum engines are in inch lbs...


Freebob...:doorag:
 
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Since everything on Spyder you need to torque is ft.lbs I would go with a 1/2" torque wrench and use a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. I also have a 3/8 torque
wrench I used when rebuilding Outboard engines in inch lbs, most torque settings on aluminum engines are in inch lbs...


Freebob...:doorag:
Beware, many of the torque values used on the Spyder are below the bottom of the scale on some 1/2" torque wrenches. Good point about the inch-pound readings on many smaller torque wrenches. For you beginners, to convert to lbf-ft, divide inch pounds by 12, or vice versa.
 
You guys are awesome!! Thank you all! Since I don't have any 1/2" sockets, I'll need to look for 1/4" & 3/8" wrenches. Let the shopping begin....:D

I knew I should have bought more tools when I worked for Snap-on.:gaah:

You'll need a MINIMUM of a 1/2" drive torque wrench for the 36mm rear axle nuts, and I use a 3/4" - 1/2" adapter for that one. They don't make a socket that big for 3/8" drives.
 
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Ok, so it sounds more like I'll need a 3/8" and 1/2". Will the 3/8" pretty much cover any of the torque values needed on the Sypder for which some folks use a 1/4" for?
 
torque wrench

Beware, many of the torque values used on the Spyder are below the bottom of the scale on some 1/2" torque wrenches. Good point about the inch-pound readings on many smaller torque wrenches. For you beginners, to convert to lbf-ft, divide inch pounds by 12, or vice versa.


I have a 1/2" torque wrench that starts at zero in 5lb increments...:thumbup:
 
Ok, so it sounds more like I'll need a 3/8" and 1/2". Will the 3/8" pretty much cover any of the torque values needed on the Sypder for which some folks use a 1/4" for?

3/8" should be fine for just about anything except front lug nuts and the rear axle nut where you'd use the 1/2". ;)
 
I have a 1/2" torque wrench that starts at zero in 5lb increments...:thumbup:
What brand? My ratcheting Craftsman starts at 20. My experience has been that most are fairly inaccurate near the bottom end. Have you checked against a beam wrench? I'd love to have one that worked well down low. Very interested!
 
torque

Working for Gov't contractors most of my life.

The following applies,
If wrench starts at Zero don't use at less than 20% of whole range. i:e: a 100 in lb wrench would only be used at 20 in lbs and higher.

If wrench has a number lets say from 20/100 in lbs, then you can start at 20.
Manufacture has taken the guess work out of the equation.
 
What brand? My ratcheting Craftsman starts at 20. My experience has been that most are fairly inaccurate near the bottom end. Have you checked against a beam wrench? I'd love to have one that worked well down low. Very interested!


Sorry failed to mention it is a specialized tool my Dad used in his business.
It is 0 to 150 ft.lbs. and he kept it calibrated...Doubt you could find one today....Brand Torqometer TQ-150....no ratchet...Also my local Snap on Tool dealer had it calibrated for me about 6 months ago....
 
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Working for Gov't contractors most of my life.

The following applies,
If wrench starts at Zero don't use at less than 20% of whole range. i:e: a 100 in lb wrench would only be used at 20 in lbs and higher.

If wrench has a number lets say from 20/100 in lbs, then you can start at 20.
Manufacture has taken the guess work out of the equation.



True I have a 3/8 in.lb for that....mil. grade....
 
Sorry failed to mention it is a specialized tool my Dad used in his business.
It is 0 to 150 ft.lbs. and he kept it calibrated...Doubt you could find one today....Brand Torqometer TQ-150....no ratchet...Also my local Snap on Tool dealer had it calibrated for me about 6 months ago....
Well, I guess I'll stick to the old-fashioned way. Thanks for showing me the trophy, though! ;)
 
I have seldom found use for a 1/4" drive torque wrench. I use 3/8" and 1/2" models on the Spyders. I prefer the ratcheting type, which allow you to work "blind". Sears Craftsman units are accurate and reliable. The Sears units read in both Nm and either lbf-ft or lbf-in. Be sure to back down a ratcheting torque wrench before you store it, or the spring will take a set and it will eventually read wrong. Testing them against beam-type torque wrenches periodically is a good idea, too.



True...Never really had use for 1/4" Torque wrench... Common sense prevails there...
 
The only thing I use a 1/4" torque wrench on are the small gas engines I have (weedwacker, edger, mower, air blower, etc.). Comes in handy. I also have been looking at a Craftsman with a range of 20 ft/lb to 250 ft/lb. It has a digital readout although it is a mechanical type wrench. Runs around $100.
 
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