UPDATE - Custom Performance Anti-Sway Bar for the RT

[BajaRon]

Can-Am RT Sway Bar Install Clarification

There are still some who think the Frunk must be removed to install the Bajaron Custom Performance Sway Bar on the RT. I even had a customer tell me that his dealer insisted that the BRP manual required that the Frunk be removed for the install and charged him labor time accordingly. OH MY!~

Hopefully this will clear things up a bit.

There is absolutely, positively no reason what-so-ever to remove the Frunk on any RT model for the install of this Sway Bar. I highly recommend against it and I do not supply instructions for Frunk removal for this reason.

The install is not difficult and it is taking the average person about 1-1/2 hours to complete. We are talking about removing 2 Tupperware bolts (not panels, just bolts. No panels need to be removed) and 2 Frunk to chassis bolts. This is the total extent of work that needs to be done regarding the Frunk (other than replacing them when the Sway Bar is mounted, of course).

Thanks for listening.... hyea:

 

[kinggeek]

There are still some who think the Frunk must be removed to install the Bajaron Custom Performance Sway Bar on the RT. I even had a customer tell me that his dealer insisted that the BRP manual required that the Frunk be removed for the install and charged him labor time accordingly. OH MY!~

Hopefully this will clear things up a bit.

There is absolutely, positively no reason what-so-ever to remove the Frunk on any RT model for the install of this Sway Bar. I highly recommend against it and I do not supply instructions for Frunk removal for this reason.

The install is not difficult and it is taking the average person about 1-1/2 hours to complete. We are talking about removing 2 Tupperware bolts (not panels, just bolts. No panels need to be removed) and 2 Frunk to chassis bolts. This is the total extent of work that needs to be done regarding the Frunk (other than replacing them when the Sway Bar is mounted, of course).

Thanks for listening.... hyea:

AMEN! I did it, frunk installed, absolutely no issues, best mod bang for the buck you will find for any RT, PERIOD!

 

[revjvegas]

Order placed!

Looking forward to getting it on. :yes:



Hmm ... that don't sound right.:shocked:

 

[RTVIPER]

There are still some who think the Frunk must be removed to install the Bajaron Custom Performance Sway Bar on the RT. I even had a customer tell me that his dealer insisted that the BRP manual required that the Frunk be removed for the install and charged him labor time accordingly. OH MY!~

Hopefully this will clear things up a bit.

There is absolutely, positively no reason what-so-ever to remove the Frunk on any RT model for the install of this Sway Bar. I highly recommend against it and I do not supply instructions for Frunk removal for this reason.

The install is not difficult and it is taking the average person about 1-1/2 hours to complete. We are talking about removing 2 Tupperware bolts (not panels, just bolts. No panels need to be removed) and 2 Frunk to chassis bolts. This is the total extent of work that needs to be done regarding the Frunk (other than replacing them when the Sway Bar is mounted, of course).

Thanks for listening.... hyea:

Took me and my bro only 45 minutes to install. No Frunk removal. Included instructions are clear and precise. Thanks BajaRon :bowdown:

 

[Bob Denman]

I took just a little bit longer... :roflblack:
FIVE hours... pps:
But that's not the fault of the Bar, or it's designer! :thumbup:

 

[BajaRon]

I took just a little bit longer... :roflblack:
FIVE hours... pps:
But that's not the fault of the Bar, or it's designer! :thumbup:

I hope it doesn't take 5 hours of riding to find out what you think about the bar.... opcorn:

 

[jthornton]

Does the sway bar stiffen up the side to side motion?

Are they bigger in diameter than the stock bars?

I have 60 miles on my 2012 Blue Spyder RT-S SE5 and while behind a truck the bike was shifting side to side enough to worry my wife... she even commented that she wanted to ride the BlueWing to Bald Knob Arkansas next month for Cajun food... will this help with the side to side wandering?

Thanks
John

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Does the sway bar stiffen up the side to side motion?

Are they bigger in diameter than the stock bars?

I have 60 miles on my 2012 Blue Spyder RT-S SE5 and while behind a truck the bike was shifting side to side enough to worry my wife... she even commented that she wanted to ride the BlueWing to Bald Knob Arkansas next month for Cajun food... will this help with the side to side wandering?

Thanks
John

I can only dream about the bar at this point, but from my experience two things hugely improved the scenario you posted. I now run 19 psi in the front tires and 28 in the rear, nothing less and replaced the windshield with CalSci model. The reduced back pressure goes a long way to cutting down the push and pull you feel, especially around trucks. The bar would be the icing for me, but I have to wait for the boss to approve.

 

[jthornton]

I can only dream about the bar at this point, but from my experience two things hugely improved the scenario you posted. I now run 19 psi in the front tires and 28 in the rear, nothing less and replaced the windshield with CalSci model. The reduced back pressure goes a long way to cutting down the push and pull you feel, especially around trucks. The bar would be the icing for me, but I have to wait for the boss to approve.

Bob mentioned on another forum that a smaller windscreen would help, I'll have to wait till it needs replacing and get the vented one.

Did you change the front shock spring settings any?

John

 

[MidLifeCrisis]

Bob mentioned on another forum that a smaller windscreen would help, I'll have to wait till it needs replacing and get the vented one.

Did you change the front shock spring settings any?

John

Yes. Sorry I forgot to mention that one. I have a 2010, so I had to move mine to 5, but 4 will likely be a good choice on an 11 or 12.

 

[Bob Denman]

Bob mentioned on another forum that a smaller windscreen would help, I'll have to wait till it needs replacing and get the vented one.

Did you change the front shock spring settings any?

John

Hi JOhn! :thumbup:
Glad to see that you found us!
So...:welcome: once again!

 

[Bob Denman]

I hope it doesn't take 5 hours of riding to find out what you think about the bar.... opcorn:

Ron,
I'd happily give my right tes... pps: errr... kidney for a five-hour test ride about now...

 

[DR Buck]

Does the sway bar stiffen up the side to side motion?

Are they bigger in diameter than the stock bars?

I have 60 miles on my 2012 Blue Spyder RT-S SE5 and while behind a truck the bike was shifting side to side enough to worry my wife... she even commented that she wanted to ride the BlueWing to Bald Knob Arkansas next month for Cajun food... will this help with the side to side wandering?

Thanks
John

Tighten up your front shocks. I've got mine cranked all the way and no longer have the side to side motion.

 

[jthornton]

Tighten up your front shocks. I've got mine cranked all the way and no longer have the side to side motion.

Thanks, I'll work with the front shock springs a bit and see how that changes the handling.

Hi Bob, yep I found my way over here and this is a busy place for sure.

Thanks
John

 

[BajaRon]

Does the sway bar stiffen up the side to side motion?

Are they bigger in diameter than the stock bars?

I have 60 miles on my 2012 Blue Spyder RT-S SE5 and while behind a truck the bike was shifting side to side enough to worry my wife... she even commented that she wanted to ride the BlueWing to Bald Knob Arkansas next month for Cajun food... will this help with the side to side wandering?

Thanks
John

Here is a tip that may help. The Sway Bar will help with any side to side movement including cross winds and the push/pull you get as you transition past a large truck at freeway speeds.

The bar will help settle the Spyder down in these situations but your body will get the same amount of buffeting. The natural reaction is to stabilize your body by stiffening your arms and holding on tighter to the handle bars.

When you do this you unknowingly transmit your wind induced body movement through your arms to the steering creating a 'Hunting' or twitchy response from your Spyder. Anytime your body is being moved around by the wind it is very important that you isolate your hands from your body movements by relaxing your arms.

The feeling that your body is being moved around by the wind always feels greater than it really is.

Hope this helps.

 

[jthornton]

Here is a tip that may help. The Sway Bar will help with any side to side movement including cross winds and the push/pull you get as you transition past a large truck at freeway speeds.

The bar will help settle the Spyder down in these situations but your body will get the same amount of buffeting. The natural reaction is to stabilize your body by stiffening your arms and holding on tighter to the handle bars.

When you do this you unknowingly transmit your wind induced body movement through your arms to the steering creating a 'Hunting' or twitchy response from your Spyder. Anytime your body is being moved around by the wind it is very important that you isolate your hands from your body movements by relaxing your arms.

The feeling that your body is being moved around by the wind always feels greater than it really is.

Hope this helps.

Ron,

I never would have thought of than, on my BlueWing I'm one with the bike and don't lean so I assume I was trying to do the same thing on the Spyder.

Thanks
John

 

[BajaRon]

Ron,

I never would have thought of than, on my BlueWing I'm one with the bike and don't lean so I assume I was trying to do the same thing on the Spyder.

Thanks
John

The difference isn't so much that you are one with the motorcycle, though I know exactly what you mean there. The difference is in how each steers and how sensitive they are to steering input.

The same amount of input on your wing will not get nearly as much reaction as it will on the Spyder, and the results happen much slower on the wing as well. If you let your body movement transfer to the handlebars on the Spyder, every little twitch causes almost instant movement. Since the movement is not wanted you automatically attempt to compensate by additional steering input. In a very gusty wind situation this can create a vicious circle. It is not dangerous but can be very annoying.

If you do find yourself trying to tripod off the handle bars or stiffening your arms and tightening your grip to offset windy conditions, try to lean forward just a bit to give your arms some bend, relax your arms, wrists and hands. You end up letting your upper torso move some with the buffeting but it does not translate into steering input. You may find your Spyder is much more stable than you realized.

The Spyder is a different machine and simply takes a different riding style. It's a technique that takes a bit of attention but soon it will be second nature.

 

[NancysToy]

In addition to what Ron said, the Spyder hasn't any gyroscopic stability like a motorcycle, so it tends to change direction and attitude more quickly when provoked.

 

[BajaRon]

In addition to what Ron said, the Spyder hasn't any gyroscopic stability like a motorcycle, so it tends to change direction and attitude more quickly when provoked.

Very true. The Spyder actually has more gyroscopic inertia than a motorcycle as it has 3 larger, heavier wheels spinning and of course the engine having a transverse crankshaft. But because it is in a 3 wheeled stance instead of suspended on 2 wheels it does not have the same effect. hyea:

Whereas the gyroscopic effect naturally counteracts side force from wind on 2 wheels, it is contact with the pavement that counteracts side force on the Spyder. That is why steering input is so much more effective (or disruptive) on a Spyder than it is on 2 wheels.

Now if you'll just show us the math formula for this Scotty, we can close the loop!

 

[jthornton]

The difference isn't so much that you are one with the motorcycle, though I know exactly what you mean there. The difference is in how each steers and how sensitive they are to steering input.

The same amount of input on your wing will not get nearly as much reaction as it will on the Spyder, and the results happen much slower on the wing as well. If you let your body movement transfer to the handlebars on the Spyder, every little twitch causes almost instant movement. Since the movement is not wanted you automatically attempt to compensate by additional steering input. In a very gusty wind situation this can create a vicious circle. It is not dangerous but can be very annoying.

If you do find yourself trying to tripod off the handle bars or stiffening your arms and tightening your grip to offset windy conditions, try to lean forward just a bit to give your arms some bend, relax your arms, wrists and hands. You end up letting your upper torso move some with the buffeting but it does not translate into steering input. You may find your Spyder is much more stable than you realized.

The Spyder is a different machine and simply takes a different riding style. It's a technique that takes a bit of attention but soon it will be second nature.

I rode my buddies Spyder for about 40 miles one day and part way we swapped and I drove his trike. I was all over the place and going slow the first few miles but it got better. I have about 100 miles on Spyders so far and will get to put some miles on mine Friday. Oh, I only drove the trike a few miles and I was ready to swap back to the Spyder.

Like you say it is a different riding style and I'm sure I'll master it soon.

Thanks for the info.

John