• There were many reasons for the change of the site software, the biggest was security. The age of the old software also meant no server updates for certain programs. There are many benefits to the new software, one of the biggest is the mobile functionality. Ill fix up some stuff in the coming days, we'll also try to get some of the old addons back or the data imported back into the site like the garage. To create a thread or to reply with a post is basically the same as it was in the prior software. The default style of the site is light colored, but i temporarily added a darker colored style, to change you can find a link at the bottom of the site.

What did you do to your Spyder today?

Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench. 😜

That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.
 
That's a weird one. Good job on getting it out.
On the 1st oil change on my F3S, I put the Allen socket in the head and rapped it with a hammer to break the tension. They all came off fine. On the 3rd oil change I put the gold hexhead plugs in. The original plugs were still good, but... Murphy's law & all.
One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.
 
Oil change just went from an hour long project to a mail order for two new oil plugs. Darn head of the bolt snapped off! These original plugs were bound to have this happen. Ordering aftermarket replacements that are actually a bolt and not fastened with an Allen wrench. 😜

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OEM plugs are just fine. I am a Spyder tech and have literally done hundreds of oil changes. Using the correct tools and torque, they come right out, go right in and don't leak. The one in your photo was significantly over torqued when installed. The same will happen with a hex head version, actually even easier to over torque as the engine side one for the aftermarket is significantly weaker than the oem one. We will not install them.
 
One of those hand impact drivers is great for this type of thing.
Remember, those plugs don't have to be banjo tight. Get a good torque wrench and follow the specs.
Thats funny, because I've had one in my toolbox for years. Maybe I didn't think about it because I dont jack up or lift my F3S. No room to use the impact driver. I usually just use a small hammer and use the side of the hammer head to lightly tap the fastener.
I also feel the stock plugs were fine. I've never used a torque wrench on any oil drain plug. I've never over torqued one or stripped one out ( mechanic by trade) for 40 years. I just get them snug, test run the engine, and see if its leaking. If it is, give it a little more torque.
Same on a plastic oil filter housing cap with an o-ring. I would never use a torque wrench on that. NEVER! Again, just bring it down slow and study, until you feel it giving you feedback that's its tight. Its easier to apply a little more pressure than to strip it out or Crack it. Torque values can change when you apply oil to the o-ring or threads, and your un- calibrated Torque wrench may over Torque it. Just go slow and easy. No need to rush. Its not like your changing oil in the middle of a Moto Gp race.
After that ,start and check for function.
 
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