What did you do to your Spyder today?

[Albec]

Wash day.
View attachment 255337

Washing in the sun? No shade available for ya?

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Washing in the sun? No shade available for ya?

Nope. Gotta do what you gotta do ;-)>

 

[Snoking1127]

This newest to me Spyder RTL did not have the little compartment door in the top case. It had a wrap around goodie bag holder that I removed. So today I made a DIY door. Velcro was already there in the compartment from the thing that I removed.

-

 

[Deanna777]

Perhaps make sure you polish or brush off any corrosion that built up between the old rotor and the hub to get a nice clean mating surface. I found I had to take everything off and start again, as I failed to do that on a motorcycle I had in the past, and one of the disk's just didn't sit right or feel right. I was amazed at the corrosion that had built up between the disk and the rotor, I presume from electrostatic processes between differing metal types.

HI mecsw500,

The OEM rotor's (front) did not have any build up on them. Thanks for the info.

Deanna

 

[Deanna777]

Well, this past weekend, I finally had a chance to install the new front brakes and rotor's.

The right side front brakes were the most difficult to change, due to removing the small retaining wire/pin and the bolt (I used a Torx T30) that holds the brake pad retention pin. Also, there is not much space to work in the area, and when I was putting it back together, the long pin that runs horizontally through the top of the caliper that secures the brake pads and the anti-rattle spring clip was difficult to put through the holes - it would not line up. I finally got the pin through the brake pads and the caliper. I did use Blue Loctite on the threads of the retaining pin. I also did the left side front pads and rotors. This side was much easier to do.

I checked the brake fluid reservoir and I did have to add any DOT 4 fluid to the reservoir.

I pumped the brakes 5 to 10 times. They worked. Then I took a short ride to set the brakes/rotors, but I did not do any hard braking. I let the Spyder glide then I applied the brakes slow and I came to a complete stop. I did not have any spongy brakes.

Mileage on the bike when I did the above was 8,811.6 miles.

I know that is low mileage, but life gets in the way.

After I changed the front brakes and rotors, I did not have any shaking on the left side of the bike.

The left side OEM rotor was warped.

Deanna

 

[Albec]

Well, this past weekend, I finally had a chance to install the new front brakes and rotor's.

The right side front brakes were the most difficult to change, due to removing the small retaining wire/pin and the bolt (I used a Torx T30) that holds the brake pad retention pin. Also, there is not much space to work in the area, and when I was putting it back together, the long pin that runs horizontally through the top of the caliper that secures the brake pads and the anti-rattle spring clip was difficult to put through the holes - it would not line up. I finally got the pin through the brake pads and the caliper. I did use Blue Loctite on the threads of the retaining pin. I also did the left side front pads and rotors. This side was much easier to do.

I checked the brake fluid reservoir and I did have to add any DOT 4 fluid to the reservoir.

I pumped the brakes 5 to 10 times. They worked. Then I took a short ride to set the brakes/rotors, but I did not do any hard braking. I let the Spyder glide then I applied the brakes slow and I came to a complete stop. I did not have any spongy brakes.

Mileage on the bike when I did the above was 8,811.6 miles.

I know that is low mileage, but life gets in the way.

After I changed the front brakes and rotors, I did not have any shaking on the left side of the bike.

The left side OEM rotor was warped.

Deanna

Since I don't know, I'm asking.

Is it necessary to bed in the new brake pads?

 

[mecsw500]

Well, this past weekend, I finally had a chance to install the new front brakes and rotor's.

The right side front brakes were the most difficult to change, due to removing the small retaining wire/pin and the bolt (I used a Torx T30) that holds the brake pad retention pin. Also, there is not much space to work in the area, and when I was putting it back together, the long pin that runs horizontally through the top of the caliper that secures the brake pads and the anti-rattle spring clip was difficult to put through the holes - it would not line up. I finally got the pin through the brake pads and the caliper. I did use Blue Loctite on the threads of the retaining pin. I also did the left side front pads and rotors. This side was much easier to do.

I checked the brake fluid reservoir and I did have to add any DOT 4 fluid to the reservoir.

I pumped the brakes 5 to 10 times. They worked. Then I took a short ride to set the brakes/rotors, but I did not do any hard braking. I let the Spyder glide then I applied the brakes slow and I came to a complete stop. I did not have any spongy brakes.

Mileage on the bike when I did the above was 8,811.6 miles.

I know that is low mileage, but life gets in the way.

After I changed the front brakes and rotors, I did not have any shaking on the left side of the bike.

The left side OEM rotor was warped.

Deanna

Well done you.

Tell us again, were these OEM or third party rotors and pads?

If third party, which brand did you use?

 

[Lew L]

I think it's a good idea to " bed" in new brakes. I did on a very recent brake job and now the brakes work exceptionally well......

 

[Deanna777]

Well done you.

Tell us again, were these OEM or third party rotors and pads?

If third party, which brand did you use?

Thanks!

They were the third party rotors and pads.

I used EBC brakes/rotors. Also, when the time comes, I'll be getting new tires all around, and at that time I will have a Can Am dealership install the rear EBC brake/rotor, when they install the tire on the rear.

Since I don't know, I'm asking.

Is it necessary to bed in the new brake pads?

HI Albec,

Yes, it is. The process lays down an even layer of pad material on the rotors, ensuring maximum stopping power, preventing brake fade, and reducing squeaking. Before you do anything else, make sure you pump the brake pedal several times while the Spyder is stationary. Changing pads pushes the pistons back, creating a gap. Pumping the pedal closes that gap so that your brakes have pressure on your very first ride.

Warm them up, by accelerating to about 35 mph and then apply moderate, steady brake pressure to slow the Spyder down to about 5 mph.

Repeat, doing the above 5 to 10 times in quick succession to heat up the brakes.

Aggressive stops (optional but helpful) do 2 to 3 harder stops from about 45 mph down to 5 mph.

Cooling down, ride for about 5-10 miles without using your brakes to let the rotors cool completely. Coasting allows the heat to escape naturally.

Deanna

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

When I 1st put the new EBC rotors & double sintered EBC brake pads on my F3S it seemed it took forever to get them bedded in. I was beginning to wonder if this upgrade was even worth it. But after a few rides it became quite clear that the Spyder was stopping better than ever and ZERO front wheel shake when braking hard.
The original rotors were warped at around 5000 mi. It was probably my fault for getting them way too hot coming down the " Snake Hwy 421" too many times going fast while trying to learn the dynamics of the Spyder. After that, I started slowing down a bit, but the new parts handle the heat real good. Never had another problem. That was 11,000 miles ago.
I'm wondering if the stock rotors are junk to begin with. I've never had rotors warp so quick. Actually Ive never warped rotors before. And from what I'm reading. I'm not alone.
Just my worthless tid bit of information.

 

[Deanna777]

This afternoon, I took a ride, and went got some ice cream.

Deanna

 

[Cobranut]

Thanks!

They were the third party rotors and pads.

I used EBC brakes/rotors. Also, when the time comes, I'll be getting new tires all around, and at that time I will have a Can Am dealership install the rear EBC brake/rotor, when they install the tire on the rear.


HI Albec,

Yes, it is. The process lays down an even layer of pad material on the rotors, ensuring maximum stopping power, preventing brake fade, and reducing squeaking. Before you do anything else, make sure you pump the brake pedal several times while the Spyder is stationary. Changing pads pushes the pistons back, creating a gap. Pumping the pedal closes that gap so that your brakes have pressure on your very first ride.

Warm them up, by accelerating to about 35 mph and then apply moderate, steady brake pressure to slow the Spyder down to about 5 mph.

Repeat, doing the above 5 to 10 times in quick succession to heat up the brakes.

Aggressive stops (optional but helpful) do 2 to 3 harder stops from about 45 mph down to 5 mph.

Cooling down, ride for about 5-10 miles without using your brakes to let the rotors cool completely. Coasting allows the heat to escape naturally.

Deanna

Very good description of the brake bedding procedure.
The first few heat cycles will impact the performance of those pads for their entire life.

 

[Dasmoetorhead]

Rode 70 miles south on Hwy 101, took the Avenue of the Giants, and stopped at Garberville Ca for some fish tacos. Pretty good too. Headed home on Hwy 101 against a brutal headwind and swarms of termites. Now I have more work to do.
I've got somewhere in the vicinity of 17.5k on the odometer (June 21st marks 3 years of ownership), and I like my Spyder more each day. I can't believe how comfortable I am on it. Not just for comfort, but how at ease I am on it, and how I totally get its handling dynamics. It's just the best machine I've ever owned. Best gift I ever gave myself. I have ZERO plans of ever letting it go, but this might be the year I get upgraded shocks, and maybe a sway bar.

 

[mecsw500]

I broke down and ordered a "Baja Ron Ultra Performance Sway Bar Kit for the Can-Am Spyder RT (2013+)" from SlingMods. Baja Ron seemed to be out of stock. Everyone is telling me that I need a better sway bar, so I decided not to be so pigheaded and actually try one. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the front 24" into the air to get the old one out.

I ordered an "EvolutionR Series Plug N' Play LED Auxiliary Running Light Bar for the Can-Am Spyder RT (2020+)" as well, after two people tried to overtake coming toward me in my lane today, worrying me about having a head on collision at 65 mph for me and heaven knows what speed for them.

I had to brake hard both times to give them time to slot back in. The road had a ditch on my side, so there was nowhere for me to go without flipping it. Two cars over taking fifth wheels in the space of ten minutes. One even crossed a double yellow to do it. My Spyder is white, so you would think it was obvious, so I think I need more lights. I'll start with this one, and then move on to options further above the ground.

 

[jzeiler]

Now all I have to do is figure out how to get the front 24" into the air to get the old one out.

...or you can do what I did and just cut one end off the old one. It comes right out at a safe height then, and you really are not going to save the old one to put back in, are you?