What tips/Snags will a local motorcycle tire shop need/meet doing a Spyder Rear Tire replacement?

[Tamingdoom]

Need to replace 8000 mile old rear tire on an F3S.
A Kenda Kanine 225/50/15 is available locally.
What tips/snags will local motorcycle tire shop have considering the recommended change of bearings/seals/O rings/wear sleeves(?)
What are torque settings for brake caliper? Rear Axle Nut?
OEM handbook is unhelpfully coy on detail here.

A 250 mile round trip to nearest BRP dealer is disincentive at the mo'

 

[Snoking1127]

I just bought the required 36mm wrenches/socket and a 250 lb ft torque wrench and do my own install of General Altimax tires. I have done four now; three on my Spyders, and one on an in-laws'. I have been able to borrow the required floor jack each time. I then have tires that last longer and trikes that handle better. Having the tire mounted has been 20-30 bucks. I am way ahead money wise also. I would add that I did the most recent one earlier this summer after my 82 birthday.

Torque settings - 2018 RT service manual:
Axle nut 166 lb ft
Caliper rear 77 lb ft

 

[Tamingdoom]

Thanks.
Torque setting for the rear nut?
I plan to pre-load the ityre with puncture sealant, since the back wheel isn't really a roadside repair for punctures.

and Err... anything else?

 

[Snoking1127]

Verify the F3 torque specs are the same as RT specs.

I've never seen a post of a rear tire failure on the road, even with all the low quality Kenda tires out there wearing out quickly. If you are that worried about it, just carry a can that puts sealant in and inflates the tire. Then in a few years, once you are tired of carrying it, you can leave it home.

 

[EdMat]

Make sure no one hits the brakes while the caliper is off.

 

[2dogs]

Having the tire mounted has been 20-30 bucks. I am way ahead money wise also. I would add that I did the most recent one earlier this summer after my 82 birthday.

You must realize that possibly only one in ten Spyder owners has the skill or knowledge to perform this type of maintenance. Consider yourself fortunate because you still have the ability and knowledge. I'm just say'n.

 

[Mrmikey]

While we're on this subject .
I'd have no problem taking the rear tire off but breaking the tire down and installing another is another thing, I'm clumsy around wheels as in screwing up the actual wheel/bead. Is there anything prohibitive about the front and rear wheels to prevent an automotive shop from removing, replacing and balancing the tires? Center hole size for the spindle on their gear, I assume, would be the only thing as a 15" wheel is a 15" wheel.

 

[BajaRon]

If you remove the rear wheel yourself, it is a good idea to mark the rubber bumper inserts so that they can go back where they came from. Sometimes it doesn't seem to matter, but other times it does. Trial and error or fighting them can be a chore.

If you put a sealant or balancing gel in your Spyder tires, I highly recommend using the Car version of Ride-On and not the Motorcycle version, even though Ride-On (who originally recommended the car version) now recommends the motorcycle version. I think it's a CYA driven decision as the car version works much better, and even the OEM tires are car tires.

I don't mean to disagree with @Snoking1127. But in my experience, the hole must be pretty small for the aerosol tire repair cans to work. Once you've expended the air, you're pretty much done if it fails to seal.

All I am saying is, be prepared with a plan B if you go the can route. Ride-On will seal a pretty big hole, almost always before you lose too much air. The downside is, if you let the bike sit for 2 weeks or more, it takes a few miles for the gel to relocate and get smooth again. The colder it is, the longer it takes.