Where should I invest first to improve stability - shocks or a stabilizer bar

[Claudio]

To improve cornering stability on the 2011 Spyder RT, where should I invest first - shock absorbers, or a stabilizer bar?

 

[2dogs]

Do both, get your alignment checked, and relax your grip. Good luck.

 

[Mikey]

2Dogs nailed it on the head! You could start with the sway bar, that will get the body roll out of the picture for the most part, but the shocks will be the icing on the cake! Alignment is also a must have, then tires will top it off. I did my 2012 in about that order and was very pleased in the end! Good luck!

 

[Dansy]

I did both, in the spring before riding again, and I’m super happy with the way it handles now… totally love it!

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Due to the cost of most performance shocks, I purchased Baja Ron's anti-swaybar and the Quatrac tires first and that was an amazing change within itself.

Once I saved up the money, I purchased front and back Wilbers shocks next and got an alignment because it changed the ride height by about 3/4 of an inch, that took it to a whole new level.

 

[WRCLVR]

Due to the cost of most performance shocks, I purchased Baja Ron's anti-swaybar and the Quatrac tires first and that was an amazing change within itself.

Once I saved up the money, I purchased front and back Wilbers shocks next and got an alignment because it changed the ride height by about 3/4 of an inch, that took it to a whole new level.

Did that raise it up 3/4 inch? That would be nice, as both of my S2S's (2023, 2024) don't have much clearance.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Mine is an F3, so I am not sure how it would affect yours in height.

Helps out when I go and get the F3 dirty on some of the dirt roads in the mountains around here, The F3 was dirty and needed washing anyway so I went out and took some lunch to Big Mountain Overlook and Meadow Ground lake on Monday. Lots of wildfire smoke up at the Overlook. Meadow Ground Lake is unique spot within itself. It is a manmade reservoir on top of a bowl shaped mountain.

 

[BajaRon]

Due to the cost of most performance shocks, I purchased Baja Ron's anti-swaybar and the Quatrac tires first and that was an amazing change within itself.

Once I saved up the money, I purchased front and back Wilbers shocks next and got an alignment because it changed the ride height by about 3/4 of an inch, that took it to a whole new level.

Did you raise it? Or did you simply bring it back to recommended ride height? (Which is what we recommend.)

You should be between 3.5" & 4" from the ground to the front of the large, rectangular main frame member running along the center of the bike. This height should be achieved when loaded in your standard riding configuration. Typical passenger(s), storage, etc. You'll need a helper to do the measurement since you will be sitting on the bike. We also recommend a setting closer to the 4" measurement.

Your bike will settle a little differently each time you mount it. So it's not critical to get it just right.

With upgraded shocks, you are not only able to regain lost ride height, but you will also reduce dive over speed bumps, steep driveway approaches, and other situations which, on a stock setup, can cause your front end to strike the ground.

You would be surprised at how much ground clearance you lose when loaded with the stock setup. Why BRP does not include spring preload adjustment on all Spyders, like they did for the 1st 5 years of production, is beyond me.

Added Note: For a 2011, aftermarket shocks are not the only option (though they are probably the best). But you can get a great deal of improvement for a lot less money from installing late model RT shocks on your 2011 RT. I recommend 2018 and above. But even the 2014's and later will make a noticable difference. You can find good take off shocks on eBay. And some repair shops have them as well.

 

[Gwolf]

To improve cornering stability on the 2011 Spyder RT, where should I invest first - shock absorbers, or a stabilizer bar?

You are already investing in it. It is called the state highway fuel tax and every time you buy gas, you make payments on it. Other sources are vehicle registration and licensing fees, and tolls. Some is just from the general revenue collections if a project is popular enough. This is supposed to be to build good roads and improve the older roads.

I may not always say what you want to hear, but what I say is usually true.

 

[Mikey]

Sorry Gwolf, how did this comment answer this guy's question? I am down in the weeds tiring to find it.

 

[Gwolf]

Sorry Gwolf, how did this comment answer this guy's question? I am down in the weeds tiring to find it.

If there were better roads, the OEM shocks and sway bars might be more than adequate.
I don't need to justify it, that is a fact.

 

[troop]

Sway bar and better tires. Then ride it for a 1000 miles.

 

[CloverHillCrawler]

Did you raise it? Or did you simply bring it back to recommended ride height? (Which is what we recommend.)

You should be between 3.5" & 4" from the ground to the front of the large, rectangular main frame member running along the center of the bike. This height should be achieved when loaded in your standard riding configuration. Typical passenger(s), storage, etc. You'll need a helper to do the measurement since you will be sitting on the bike. We also recommend a setting closer to the 4" measurement.

Your bike will settle a little differently each time you mount it. So it's not critical to get it just right.

With upgraded shocks, you are not only able to regain lost ride height, but you will also reduce dive over speed bumps, steep driveway approaches, and other situations which, on a stock setup, can cause your front end to strike the ground.

You would be surprised at how much ground clearance you lose when loaded with the stock setup. Why BRP does not include spring preload adjustment on all Spyders, like they did for the 1st 5 years of production, is beyond me.

Added Note: For a 2011, aftermarket shocks are not the only option (though they are probably the best). But you can get a great deal of improvement for a lot less money from installing late model RT shocks on your 2011 RT. I recommend 2018 and above. But even the 2014's and later will make a noticable difference. You can find good take off shocks on eBay. And some repair shops have them as well.

I'll go measure it again, but if I remember right, I went from about 3 3/4" to almost 4 1/2" measured at the front skid. But I am getting ready to change over from the Quatrac 165/60/15 to the 175/55/15, so that may change again. Never intended on changing it, but when I went from stock to the Wilbers shocks it came up. I measured it at the same point before and after I installed the Wilbers.

Just went out after I finished typing this and remeasured at the front of the centerframe... 4 1/4 inches with worn front tires.

Oh, and no kidding on the stock setup sagging under load, when I had the stock shocks on with my wife riding with me, the rear end would bottom out, and between the both of us, our combined weight was just over 400 lbs.

 

[askitee]

Shocks. Just my 2 pennies worth. I rode a friends 2015 RTL with an aftermarket stabilizer bar, then bought the Wilbers for my RTL. I have not bothered with the Stabilizer as the shocks gave me the best overall improvement - Handling, braking, rough cornering, and reduced fatigue on long trips (backed up by the chief cook feeling the same improvements in comfort).

 

[ShadyMarv]

To improve cornering stability on the 2011 Spyder RT, where should I invest first - shock absorbers, or a stabilizer bar?

I just switched to Baja Ron’s Ultra sway bar in July. The difference was noticeable at the first corner. The factory bar had gaps & was worn shiny at the support blocks after 20 K kilometers. Wished I had done it sooner.

 

[Deanna777]

I would go with a Sway bar, then the shocks.

Deanna