How do I go to manual suspension on my RT?

[NorwegianRT]

Rode home from the solar eclipse event this afternoon and there was no air in the rear suspension, I felt every little bump.
So, in case it is not just a fuse or a relay, how do I make it manual via the valve under my seat?
I understand there must be a direct hose from the valve to the airbag, but what about the electronics?

 

[safecracker]

To disable the automatic air suspension, the complete backend of my my 2011 RTS was removed - there are a total of 7 bolts to remove. First, remove the seat; then the 4 bolts under the seat and 1 ground strap; unplug the 2 large wire harnesses; remove schrader valve; there is a bolt under each side case to remove. Take all of your stuff out of the 3 cargo boxes, and ask a friend to help pull off the rear assembly. I removed the rear tire to give me more room; then remove the inner fender, I think there are 4 push pins securing the fender. Once that is removed, there is your compressor. I removed the compressor, the ACS switch, the bleed off valve, and taped up the connectors. I then removed all the air hoses. I bought a new, longer, air hose and ran it to the air bladder from the schrader valve. Then it was time to put it all back together. I usually ran 30 to 50 psi when riding single and around 70 psi fully loaded. Good luck, Bruce.

 

[NorwegianRT]

To disable the automatic air suspension, the complete backend of my my 2011 RTS was removed - there are a total of 7 bolts to remove. First, remove the seat; then the 4 bolts under the seat and 1 ground strap; unplug the 2 large wire harnesses; remove schrader valve; there is a bolt under each side case to remove. Take all of your stuff out of the 3 cargo boxes, and ask a friend to help pull off the rear assembly. I removed the rear tire to give me more room; then remove the inner fender, I think there are 4 push pins securing the fender. Once that is removed, there is your compressor. I removed the compressor, the ACS switch, the bleed off valve, and taped up the connectors. I then removed all the air hoses. I bought a new, longer, air hose and ran it to the air bladder from the schrader valve. Then it was time to put it all back together. I usually ran 30 to 50 psi when riding single and around 70 psi fully loaded. Good luck, Bruce.

Thank you for the reply Bruce
Then it is back to taking the back end off again as I changed the compressor once in 2023. But first I will go out and check the fuses and relays
The ACS switch, is that the switch that is located in the switch cluster just below the steering handle ? (I am not too familiar with all the shortened words in English yet )

 

[safecracker]

No the ACS switch is located above left side swing arm. It controls when the compressor turns on.

 

[Mikey]

All you need to do is hook the Shrader valve to the bag and unhook the dump valve. Easy as pie, if you want to dig all the other stuff out you can, I think I removed the dump valve itself just because it gave me more room to get to the hoses from the bag and unhook the shrader off that unit to hook together, it's tight but you can do it!!! P.S make sure to soap test your fittings before you close her up!

 

[NorwegianRT]

No the ACS switch is located above left side swing arm. It controls when the compressor turns on.

Thank you for info Safecracker, I am now a little smarter

 

[NorwegianRT]

All you need to do is hook the Shrader valve to the bag and unhook the dump valve. Easy as pie, if you want to dig all the other stuff out you can, I think I removed the dump valve itself just because it gave me more room to get to the hoses from the bag and unhook the shrader off that unit to hook together, it's tight but you can do it!!! P.S make sure to soap test your fittings before you close her up!

Thank you Mikey !

 

[NorwegianRT]

I dug the compressor out today and hooked it up to a car battery, it turned,but no piston action.
After taking the piston with counterweight out, it turned out the set screw in the counterweight was not helping.
Motor axel just spinning in the counterweight.
Managed to get the setscrew out, it was a pain in the.... due to all that threadlock. Cleaned everything up and put the setscrew back in with just enough clearing to fit the axel.
Did another 12 V test and it was now pumping air again.
Put the Spyder back together again and fired it up. Yayyy, the compressor was working fine.

But how long was Adam in paradise?
It suddenly gave up again and I parked the Spyder, shut it off and went innside to clean up dirty hands and to indulge in self pitty for a little while
I will give it one more try before I do the manual option.

 

[NorwegianRT]

What number is the dump valve on this part drawing for my suspention ?

 

[Mikey]

49-52 Trust me you will not regret doing the swap, you will not miss it a bit! All you have to do is find the right pressure for your set up! And if you change the rear shock out to an aftermarket set up then you will be able to let out most of the air out of it and use it as an overload setup for those big trips when you pack a lot of stuff and need a little more help! P.S wrap the plug end from your harness up, so it is watertight, if you unplug it!

 

[NorwegianRT]

49-52 Trust me you will not regret doing the swap, you will not miss it a bit! All you have to do is find the right pressure for your set up! And if you change the rear shock out to an aftermarket set up then you will be able to let out most of the air out of it and use it as an overload setup for those big trips when you pack a lot of stuff and need a little more help! P.S wrap the plug end from your harness up, so it is watertight, if you unplug it!

Awesome !
If the next attempt on the compressor is not a good fix. I will do the conversion
Good tip on making the plug watertight, that I will do for sure.
Now I will Google and try to find where to get hoses and connectors.

 

[Mikey]

Awesome !
If the next attempt on the compressor is not a good fix. I will do the conversion
Good tip on making the plug watertight, that I will do for sure.
Now I will Google and try to find where to get hoses and connectors.

Any big truck store will have the fittings and hose, got mine at NAPA! It's the same air lines and couplings used on any brake system. I have done it two ways, by just unhooking at the dump valve and putting a coupling in between or putting a long line between the bag and shrader! If you have enough hose to just put the coupling in that's what I would do, I don't like messing with the old fittings more than you have to, don't want to make a leak if you don't have to!