Where's my oil going?

[Dick Wells]

Just changed oil and filter, yesterday. Added 4 quarts of Castrol racing 10 - 40, designated for wet clutches. Started the engine with about 3.5 quarts in it, and finished dumping the 4th one in. Let it idle for a minute, shut it down, and checked the level. The dip-stick barely touches! Now, when I put on my custom floorboards a couple of years ago, I had to add about a foot of extra hard pipe (1/2"), to reach over my skid rails under the left floorboard, but I can't see that as being a factor, because my oil level was always well up on the dip-stick, even after the new boards were on. What the heck has happened to my oil level? Any ideas? The system is oil tight. IOW, there are no drips, anywhere. Have I emptied a chamber that I don't know about, and that never got drained, before? What think ye, Spyder Lovers? Any, and all advice will be welcome.

Thanks,
DW

 

[frankc]

wheres my oil

I did the same thing directly by the book. check the oil barely touched the stick went to the service department at the dealer, he said don't worry about it as long as it touches the stick. it should hold 4 quarts so I guess its ok. ill be watch this thread to see if anyone has an answer:spyder2:

 

[DrewNJ]

Don't over think it. You put 4 quarts in. It's in there. To check the oil level correctly the engine needs to be at full operating temp and you need to have ridden for a bit. The oil level will come up a bit as it gets hot.
If you have an SM your perfectly fine stopping at the 4 quarts. If you have an SE you'll need a bit more oil.

Sometimes I think people pay TO MUCH attention to the oil level.....

 

[billybovine]

You did not share if you have a SM or SE but the oil capacity of a SE is 4.5 US quarts. From the add line the full mark is 1/2 quart so it looks exactly correct. Often the TCM does not drain and less oil is required to refill.

 

[Bob Denman]

:agree: re-read what the book says... :shocked:

 

[frankc]

wheres my oil

my spyder is manual. by the way billybovine I was looking for a tool to remove givi bags and you listed the number for the tool which I ordered thanks for that info it was a saver:bowdown:

You did not share if you have a SM or SE but the oil capacity of a SE is 4.5 US quarts. From the add line the full mark is 1/2 quart so it looks exactly correct. Often the TCM does not drain and less oil is required to refill.

 

[MikeinGA]

Just changed oil and filter, yesterday. Added 4 quarts of Castrol racing 10 - 40, designated for wet clutches. Started the engine with about 3.5 quarts in it, and finished dumping the 4th one in. Let it idle for a minute, shut it down, and checked the level. The dip-stick barely touches! Now, when I put on my custom floorboards a couple of years ago, I had to add about a foot of extra hard pipe (1/2"), to reach over my skid rails under the left floorboard, but I can't see that as being a factor, because my oil level was always well up on the dip-stick, even after the new boards were on. What the heck has happened to my oil level? Any ideas? The system is oil tight. IOW, there are no drips, anywhere. Have I emptied a chamber that I don't know about, and that never got drained, before? What think ye, Spyder Lovers? Any, and all advice will be welcome.

Thanks,
DW

You must run the engine for about 20 minutes or take a 20 minute ride. Then add oil to it stick shows a 1/4 inch below the full line and check the oil after a long ride. That's what I bin doing for the last three years.

Mike

 

[Dick Wells]

Well, duh! Dummy, here, has always known that the dang level will come up when it's hot. I just never had it fail to come up into the cross-hatch area, cold, before. I'll bet anything that it'll come up to level, once I run it a bit. BTW, it's an RS5'er.

Thanks, guys.

 

[tommyoneleg]

Here is a page out of the service manual, read the first paragraph and you will see you can check the oil Cold or Hot. Remember these burn oil just open you air box and you will see what it in there. I have a 2009.

 

[ChasCS]

Which by the way , is a what?

Well, duh! Dummy, here, has always known that the dang level will come up when it's hot. I just never had it fail to come up into the cross-hatch area, cold, before. I'll bet anything that it'll come up to level, once I run it a bit. BTW, it's an RS5'er.

Thanks, guys.

No dummies here, just fellow students continually learning. ;-)
Sounds like that warming up period, will have you back up to proper level and running fine.

I just wondered What's an RS5'er?

I have an RS-S SE5. E for electric shift opposed to M for manual shift. Stumped here.

Chas

 

[Dick Wells]

It's a five-speed manual. One of the best things about the machine, as far as I'm concerned. Have always liked the clutch and transmission. Once used to it, I found that I could shift without any clunk, especially on down-shifts. Just had to learn how to sort of come back onto the throttle as I shift and release the clutch. Just about the best shifting bike I've ever ridden, and , last count, I've ridden some 30 different makes, having moon-lighted as a Bultaco dealer, back in 69 though 74. I especially like the reverse; practically flawless. Course, I'm an old manual shift guy from way back.

Surprisingly, I took a 200+ mile trip, over the weekend and it seems to make no difference whatsoever how long I run, the dang dip-stick just touches the oil! Been a long time since I pulled the right-side cover and checked the air cleaner, but I only had oil in it once, back when I first got the bike, back in 2010. The vent system was worked on at Cowtown, soon after that, and I never saw fluid in the air box again, but that doesn't mean that it ain't happening, now.

 

[Chupaca]

Relax..!!

never paid attention on how much went in just that it was where it should be on the dip stick. I have the engine at full operating temp 4/5 bars. Do it mostly when coming in from a ryde. Keep it just below the full mark and have to add every 400/500 miles....some always goes up in smoke through the crankcase and into the throttle body... :thumbup: