Can you show us how you installed the power cables for your heated gear?

I hooked my CycleGear "Hotwire" heated vest fused cable direct to the battery terminals from behind it. Ran the cable to just under the seat near the gas cap. It tucks away but sticks out a bit, something you are trying to avoid. So far, I am OK with it. I might look into a mounted plug with a rubber cap once I get the urge to clean things up.

I installed a HealTech Thunder Box under the pillion seat, hooked up my heated gear cables to it, and run them up next to the riders backrest bracket. The HealTech only has power when the ignition is turned on.

Battery tech has advanced so far the the last 10 yrs that corded heated gear is no longer necessary. My heated jacket liner runs 8hrs on a battery and I can quickly swap batteries if needed. Similar for my heated gloves. Move up to the 21st century.

Check this thread - Remote Bus Bar:

CO Rider said:

I want to install my heated gear power cables. In the past, it was just direct to the battery with the ends left poking out from under the seats.
I'd like to do a cleaner install. Maybe panel mounted plugs and an isolated bus bar?
I have passenger heated gear as well as a battery tender and a jump start cable to install.
A description and pictures would be most appreciated if you have an install that you are proud of!

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This power port is wired directly to the battery. I use it for both my heated gear and battery tender.

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Copperman said:

This power port is wired directly to the battery. I use it for both my heated gear and battery tender.

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Was going to go to the garage and take a picture of mine... but this is pretty close to what I have done, and I also use the port for my battery tender!

CO Rider said:

So for those of us struggling to leave the 20th century,
What battery powered gear do you have?

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Currently Kemimoto, as I just could not justify the cost of Klim. I love my Klim jacket, gloves, and over pants, but the heated gear just seemed overpriced for the small improvement in quality. Very happy with the Kemimoto heated liner and gloves. Even if they only last a couple of seasons, I will be money ahead. That said, living in Houston, I do not get that much seat time with the heated gear. Mostly it's only when we travel to Northern climes and Colorado, plus a few rides a year here. I have used it in temps down to 20°F.

I previously had First Gear heated gear and it was fine as well. Most of the major brands all have battery operated versions now. Stick with 7.2v or 12v, not the low power 5v stuff.

CO Rider said:

So for those of us struggling to leave the 20th century,
What battery powered gear do you have?

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I have the Tourmaster Synergy BT. I have multiple bikes and also teach on a large parking lot. The battery is about the size of an iPhone and on Medium, it powers the jacket AND gloves for about 5 hours. It's so good to plug it in on the bike, and then when I reach the teaching lot, I unplug it and use the battery.

jcthorne said:

Battery tech has advanced so far the the last 10 yrs that corded heated gear is no longer necessary. My heated jacket liner runs 8hrs on a battery and I can quickly swap batteries if needed. Similar for my heated gloves. Move up to the 21st century.

Click to expand...

What brand are you using? For an 8 hour use time I might even swap over.

If I had just kept reading the answer was already there. Kemimoto

Wired my power outlet for heated gear direct to battery (with fuse!!)

I wear a Warm&Safe jacket liner, with instructions to wire the fused cable directly to the battery.

Sarah

As Sarah says, I followed Warm and Safe's directions. However, I installed a fuse box prior to the heated gear. The Fuse box is triggered by a relay when the ignition is on, sending power to the box. The wires for two sets of heated gear run under the tupperware to the left of the handlebars; the fuse box is located outside the frunk at the frunk's top right corner (when looking at the frunk from the front of the bike. The fuse box also powers additional driving lights I've installed on the fenders.)
Wires run easily under the body panel to the left of the instrument cluster on my ST. Lots of room under that panel. I put the wires in a loom (I think that's the correct name) to protect and separate. Wires go to under the seat where they live until needed. Sufficient length to reach jacket's sockets. Pillion's heater lead is a smidge longer; she finds it's easier that way.
Had this setup for four+ years. Before I got the ST it was on a couple of motorcycles. It just works.
I prefer being wired to using battery-powered heated gear. Batteries are fickle. Not ready for prime time, IMHO. YMMV, of course.

A relay is a switch. That's all it is. Power from the battery goes to the relay, which, when triggered, turns "on" the power which goes to the fuse box. Your heated gear is attached to the fuse box. (You could, of course, not use a fuse box. Then you'd put a fuse between the relay and the positive terminal on your battery, with the heated gear attached to the output of the relay. You'd still want to trigger the relay from an ignition-on source, lest the power go through to the heated gear and run down the battery, quite quickly!)
A wire from anything that is start-when-the-ignition starts can trigger the relay, which then sends voltage directly to the heated gear wiring. Reason? Much of the wiring is too thin to carry the amps needed for the heated gear. (Can you say "FIRE!"?) The relay takes care of that.
I don't recall exactly which circuit I joined, but I'm guessing it was a headlight or the fender's driving lights. Obviously, you don't want a turn signal wire...
There are a variety of products that allow you to join the relay wire to the hot-when-ignition-on wire(s). Posi-Taps are easy and universally appreciated.