Is there any Owner affordable BUDS?

I would suspect that using a OBDII reader unit, rather than trying to adapt to a phone/tablet/computer via Bluetooth would remove a set of variables from the equation.

I tried quite a few OBDII adapters via Bluetooth on my Range Rover, from an iPhone and an iPad with numerous reader apps. None worked. I gave up and bought an OBDII native device, which actually worked. Obviously I have no idea which brand might work with your Spyder. I use an Innova brand as it supports Jaguar Land Rover trouble codes.

Note, an OBDII reader is only going to read generic codes applicable to all vehicles. The BRP specific codes, of which there are many, probably won't be accessible to anything but a genuine BUDS system. You may be able to reset generic codes, perhaps, but anything outside of that I truly doubt will be reset-able. You certainly won't be able to calibrate any of the BRP systems or modules I would have thought.

DriftBuster said:

Like a bluetooth oir USB connected dedicated OBDII reader I am already using? They work on supposedly all OBDII standard protocals, but refuse to connect.

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That’s because the Spyder is not an OBDII standard protocol. It’s proprietary. Having a plug adapter cable doesn’t mean the software can talk to each other. BUDS is the software that runs on your computer. In addition, you need the proprietary hardware interface. It’s more than just a hardware adapter. The whole thing is a complete system in order to work. Typically, any functionality you get from an OBDII scanner - if you find the right one - is limited - and is effectively just a toy, and usually ends up as just another paperweight on your workbench. What is your need, anyway?

DriftBuster said:

Need? Getting rid of error codes so I can try to figure out what's happening and if I fix it. I'm getting a P081B code, short to V+ (??) and low voltage and no amperage to the starter solenoid.

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The trap the folks get into, is the misconception that if they clear the code, that the problem goes away. That doesn't solve a thing. It's the other way around. When you fix the problem that caused the code in the first place, the code will clear on its own. (Except for C1282) A code is just the messenger. You can also see that the proprietary Spyder codes don’t match the OBDII definitions. A large number of Spyder codes won’t. Stay off of Google. That’s why a OBDII scanner does you no good. You could benefit from a shop manual if you don’t have one. 25 bucks. Full electrical diagram. I'll give you one. Download then zoom in. Fix the problem.

My brake light switch spring popped off a month ago and I got 2 codes related to it. After I reattached it, the codes disappeared.

Affordable is a relative term. With the problems you are describing, that's a rather in-depth dealer visit. At $150/hr labor charge, it doesn't take much to get to a 4-figure bill. I bought my system in 2020. Our 3 Spyders never saw a repair shop: not only monetary cost but the time that the Spyders would have been in queue for service (around here it was 2 weeks in their shop just to get a rear tire changed). And if your machine is over 10 years old, many won't even work on them (but that's as much about parts availability)

Powersports Diagnostics (www.powersports-diag.com) is the real deal. It comes with access to digital copies of Spyder service manuals. A reader will only ever be a reader. BRP chose to use a proprietary comm system to manage their fleet of vehicles, more than just Spyders. I believe it was posted years ago on this forum about someone trying to break the BRP code but was only marginally successful.

DriftBuster said:

So it seems the BRP brand 6 pin to 16 pin adapter is just a paperweight??

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Where did you buy it from? I'll buy one and give it a go with my OBDII reader. Do you have a part number etc?

DriftBuster said:

Issue seems to be power. 11.5 volts, but no amperage to power the OBDII unit. Same as with the power to the starter solenoid.

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You say the ground is showing less than one 1 volt under the battery voltage, but that is relative to what? Every voltage should be relative to the battery's -ve terminal or the frame/engine block. Perhaps I'm not understanding you correctly?

If you have 1 volt less than the battery voltage somewhere in the ground wires in the electrical system relative to the battery -ve terminal, there's obviously an electrical issue somewhere. Everywhere there is a ground wire, certainly for the ground wires that are part of the power supply to the various intelligent modules in the system, there should likely be 0 volts differential between it and the battery -ve terminal.

If you have a high parasitic draw, then try removing and replacing each fuse one by one and measuring the voltage available across the battery or from the +ve terminal of the battery and the engine block/frame as you do so.

I'd suggest, as a part of your diagnostic, that you check where the negative cable from the battery attaches to the ground point on the frame/engine on your bike. That needs to be clean and very tight. Of course the same applies to the battery terminals. The battery of course needs to be in tip top condition and fully charged.

If you could explain a little more about whereabouts you are measuring voltage, like between which wires and which ground point, it might help us throw a bit more light on the issue.

I bought BUDS and the interface from https://diag-systems.net/
They're a Ukranian company, and their prices are considerably less than the other suppliers.
Delivery did take some time. I had an issue with the interface, which actually may have been my fault, and they stood behind their product and sent a replacement.
They post regular updates as well.
Here is their Facebook page: