Any idea why my Rear Shock Bolt bends in the middle?

[RangerRick]

Well, I increased the spring tension by 6 turns, it still bottoms out on very rough surface, as in wash board gravel roads. Marcus's instructions say if you do more than 4 turns you may need a different spring, contact him. Well that is no longer an option. So for now, I am putting back on the stock spring, then will look to see if there is any info on his spring, I'm sure he purchased them from a supplier. The stock spring is bigger and 2 stage. What a difference in these two springs, no wonder his shock bottoms out.

 

[BajaRon]

That is a very short spring. Inspect the spring and it should have some numbers and manufacturer identification on it. Most quality springs have the rate, length, and diameter displayed somewhere on the spring. You don't have to stick with the length. I would be extremely tempted to go with a longer spring. You certainly have the shock body to accomodate it. The shorter the spring, the harsher the ride. A longer spring will give you a nicer ride. A longer spring will require a relatively higher spring rate. But if you are bottoming out, you should up the spring rate anyway.

I would remove the spring first before purchasing another one. This way you can test the shock to see if it is still servicable. No use buying a new spring for a bad shock.

You have discovered the root of your problem. The first step towards success!

 

[RangerRick]

Thanks Ron. here is what's on the spring, and I see he used Bilstein.

 

[BajaRon]

Very good! That's an Eibach spring. They make some of the best springs in the industry. Here is what these numbers mean.

Linear Main Spring - Dia. 2.25 in | Len: 6.00 in | Rate: 500 lbs/in​

Linear simply means it is a single rate spring. The OEM spring is progressive (weaker in the tight coils getting stronger in the more spaced out coils). As with everything, there are advantages and disadvantages with each.

With a diameter of 2.25 inches you have all the information needed to get a ballpark idea of where you need to go with this.

Again, check the shock itself to see if it is worthy of a new spring rate before you do anything more.

 

[RangerRick]

Thanks Again Ron, I think the shock is fine. I have removed the spring, and the shock is fully extended and there is no way I can shove it. I'm impressed that there is even a roller bearing assembly on each end of the spring, as shown in the picture. I will grease these back up as I have cleaned them off. Waiting to hear opinions of what spring to replace this with. Sounds like longer for sure.

 

[BajaRon]

Thanks Again Ron, I think the shock is fine. I have removed the spring, and the shock is fully extended and there is no way I can shove it. I'm impressed that there is even a roller bearing assembly on each end of the spring, as shown in the picture. I will grease these back up as I have cleaned them off. Waiting to hear opinions of what spring to replace this with. Sounds like longer for sure.

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I would talk to Eibach and get their professional opinion as to where you need to go from here. Glad to hear that the shock is in good condition.

 

[RangerRick]

I sent an e-mail to their Tech support, so

 

[Mikey]

Are you able to adjust the damping remotely from the outside of that shock? I still think the damping in that shock is not set right for you! Just my 2 cents! Springs help carry the load and gives you ride height the damping and pressure in the shock gives you the squash and restriction from bottoming out! That's my way of thinking, correct me if I am wrong Ron!

 

[Little Blue]

That would be correct about the spring. The Shock is a little bit different. I would need to carefully look over the shock. But I will defer this to Baja Ron.

Next Question please.

 

[BajaRon]

I want to be clear that I do not consider myself a 'Shock Expert', because I am not. I'm just knowledgable enough to be dangerous! If I can point you in the right direction, then I feel that I've done good here.

I belieive that this is your shock (Pictured). It has a dampening dial (Indicated). And should have markings to tell you + or - direction with clicks to give you orientation. I was not able to find the total number of clicks available, so I would turn it in the (-) direction and count the clicks to stop. Then do the same in the (+) direction to stop. Do not force it in either direction. You will feel added resistance at the stop, so quit when you get there. That will give you the total spread number of clicks (adjustment). This will tell you where you were on the full scale with the origianl setting.

I agree with Mikey and Little Blue that increasing the dampening may be enough. You would need to experiment with this setting combined with the zip tie application. You might be able to get away without changing springs. Though for the ease and price, it might be an interesting experience to do so.

I hope Eibach responds with suggestions. That will be interesting. They may be reluctant to go to a longer spring, simply wanting to stay with the original design. Kind of a CYA thing. Who knows. Hopefully, that shoe drops soon.