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Battery Question

F

Fire34

Member
I have been keeping my ride hooked up to a battery tender jr, one time i forgot and had to use the battery pack to get it started. Since that time it has been hooked up and all winter.
Yesterday we went for a short ride and she stated right up in the garage. We rode about 100 miles and when we shut her off to get fuel she would not started. Jumped her again and got home.
When we got home hooked her up to the tender, the tender light was solid green, usually flashes green at first tried to start her no mode screen and of course she would not start
Went out this morning and of course the mode screen came on unhooked from the tender ( didnt look at the light ) and she would not start again. when i removed the key the radio continued to play which was wierd put key back in and radio shut off, rehooked her to the tender solid red this time.
Battery only 2 years old, any ideas ? fuse maybe ? thanks guys
Dave
 
Do you have a meter that you could check the battery with? It could be the battery, and it could be the charging system on the bike. If you rode 100 miles, and the charging system was working properly, I would think the bike should have started. If you're not comfortable doing a load test on the battery, you might wanna go to an auto parts store and let them do it for you. They should be able to tell you if the battery is junk, or the charging system is not working properly. Most auto parts places will do this for free. If you take it to a dealer, they'll likely hose you for it, and of course they'll try to sell you a new battery, even if you don't need one
 
You likely have a dead cell in the battery. The battery will still show 12v or thereabouts (13.4v is optimal), but once a "load" is placed on the battery, like when starting, it doesn't have the amperage to start. Mazo is correct you need to have a load test done on the battery. There are several ways to do it and can be done at home with a multi-meter. As to the tender you're using, unless you have a new style smart charger that measures the battery's health, then all they do is charge to voltage, and not amperage. And, I don't believe a Battery Tender Jr. is a smart charger, it's a simple low amperage trickle charger.
 
KX5062 said:
You likely have a dead cell in the battery. The battery will still show 12v or thereabouts (13.4v is optimal), but once a "load" is placed on the battery, like when starting, it doesn't have the amperage to start. Mazo is correct you need to have a load test done on the battery. There are several ways to do it and can be done at home with a multi-meter. As to the tender you're using, unless you have a new style smart charger that measures the battery's health, then all they do is charge to voltage, and not amperage. And, I don't believe a Battery Tender Jr. is a smart charger, it's a simple low amperage trickle charger.
Click to expand...

A FLA or gel battery should never read 13.4V....unless it's hooked up to a charger and being charged at the time. 13.4 is the approx. output of the alternator to charge the battery. After the charger is removed and 15-20 minutes have passed, a fully charged battery should be 12.7 to 12.8 volts. I have several Battery Tender Jrs and they are in fact a smart charger, not just a trickle charger. They sense battery voltage and go from full charge to a float charge.

And yes, the O.P. needs to have the battery load tested to make sure it's healthy. I know of know way to do that with a multi-meter other than watching the voltage drop as a load is placed on it...but that really doesn't tell you much
 
Not that it'll make you feel any better, but I had a battery from Costco die in my pickup just short of two years! It would show full charge and be dead in a few hours. Costco replaced it free.
 
Battery on my Kubota zero turn quit at 18 months. Was on a tender the whole time. Batteries have a mind of their own.
 
Was able to finally get to an auto zone, it was the battery. Called the local can am shop they have 3 in stock. Just wondering has anyone used othe than an oem battery? Thanks guys
Dave
 
Fire34 said:
Was able to finally get to an auto zone, it was the battery. Called the local can am shop they have 3 in stock. Just wondering has anyone used othe than an oem battery? Thanks guys
Dave
Click to expand...
There have been a lot of discussions here about batteries, many of them being by owners touting the virtues of such and such battery compared to the OEM. On balance though, all battery brands have batteries that fail prematurely, and they all have batteries that perform superbly. The general consensus is the OEM battery is about as good a value for money as you can get. If time is not a constraint, and contrary to many opinions here, I suggest you order online, or buy from whoever, a battery with acid supplied in a bottle. You'll see them designated with a -BS on the model number. But you MUST follow two instructions closely. After you put the acid in the battery let it sit for a day or more. Then charge it with a low level charge, like 1.5 to 2 amps. Your battery maintainer should be able to do that. The advantage of a BS battery is that it doesn't matter how long ago it was manufactured. I starts out as a new battery when you fill and charge it. Factory filled batteries begin operational life when they're made and filled. Then you are at the mercy of the dealer charging it properly. An improper charge of the battery MAY, only may, be the reason yours failed so soon. If the battery is factory filled and charged, and at most only a few weeks old, you'll do OK buying it. But it still would be wise to slowly charge it fully before putting it into use.
 
triplethreat said:
I have several Battery Tender Jrs and they are in fact a smart charger, not just a trickle charger. They sense battery voltage and go from full charge to a float charge.
Click to expand...

Just for the sake of discussion. These types of trickle chargers are not "smart chargers", they only sense a voltage and trickle a small amount of amps to charge the battery to the proper volts. They do not sense the "health" of the battery. It has no idea about the state of amperage of the battery, only volts. They work really well on a healthy battery, but are worthless on a battery with a bad cell or a sulfured battery.

Here's a link to a new style smart charger to see what I was referring to:
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...dp/B07W46BX31/ref=psdc_15707061_t3_B000CITK8S

There are many others out there most start at about this price and obviously go up from there. :f_spider:
 
Just wondering how long does a battery last in a Spyder, I have a 2017 and went to start it the other day and it would not start. I have been using a BatteryMinder Plus since I installed Lamonster's power plate to maintain the battery off season.
 
donner1954 said:
Just wondering how long does a battery last in a Spyder, I have a 2017 and went to start it the other day and it would not start. I have been using a BatteryMinder Plus since I installed Lamonster's power plate to maintain the battery off season.
Click to expand...
Until it dies! Sorry, I know that's not what you wanted to be told but I really am not being totally facetious. There are so many variables there is no single good answer, except "it depends". It depends on a lot factors, like initial fill and charge, temperature, how often it may have been run down, and so on. Some have lasted only about a year, and many as long as 4 to 6 years. Some have found it's best to change them every 3 years, regardless of apparent condition. There's a reason most batteries are only warranted for a year.

But, before you replace your battery clean the battery cable connections. Corrosion will keep a vehicle from starting if it's bad enough. Put it on a regular charger and see if that helps. Check your minder to make sure it's working. If none of these fix it, then it's time to replace the battery. I once had a Yuasa battery not start my Goldwing. I jumped it and rode about 40 minutes to Burger King. 2 hours later it would not start again. I jumped it and kept it running for about a half hour while I shopped for a battery. Turned it off to change out the battery at Walmart. Before I disconnected the battery I checked if it would start. It did. So I put the new battery back on the shelf and went home. The battery lasted another year!

Go here to see what I believe is a good way to go. https://www.spyderlovers.com/forums...ommendations&p=1508746&viewfull=1#post1508746
 
IMS has given us a lot of good information in his posts. I had to replace my original battery early last November. I knew it was going because of its initial behavior one morning when I left home for a ride. The ride charged it up fine and subsequent starts that day were fine. The next day it started fine, I rode off to the gym to work out, it started fine leaving the gym but when I stopped to run an errand returned to the bike to go home, lots of crazy flashes across the dashboard and nothing. Fortunately, a couple of years earlier I added a Rugged Geek, https://www.lamonstergarage.com/rugged-geek-1000a-safety-gen-2-battery-jump-pack-lamonster/, to my tool kit and in 15 minutes I was up and running on the way home. It actually took longer to get the bike started because I had to explain to several polite folks who asked if I needed a hand how that little device was going to jump start my Spyder.
 
I have a 2014 RTS-SE6, it had the OEM battery in it.


Last week I ordered a new battery; just got it (tonight, from UPS @ 9:00pm). I'll put in the new battery sometime this week. I'll post on this thread if I have any problems.



Question: Do you disconnect the +positive first or the -negative first on the OEM battery?

Deanna
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Deanna777 said:
I have a 2014 RTS-SE6, it had the OEM battery in it.


Last week I ordered a new battery, I just got the battery ( tonight from UPS @ 9:00pm). I'll put in the new battery sometime this week. I'll post on this thread,If I have any problems.



Question: Do you discount the +positive first or the -negative first on the OEM battery?

Deanna
Click to expand...

I’ve always been taught yo disconnect negative first. When installing, always connect negative last. Don’t honestly know if that is the correct way, but that is the way I was taught.
 
Deanna777 said:
I have a 2014 RTS-SE6, it had the OEM battery in it.


Last week I ordered a new battery, I just got the battery ( tonight from UPS @ 9:00pm). I'll put in the new battery sometime this week. I'll post on this thread,If I have any problems.



Question: Do you discount the +positive first or the -negative first on the OEM battery?

Deanna
Click to expand...

If you are really super, super, careful it doesn't make a difference. However, to be uber safe disconnect the negative terminal first. That will prevent any sparks if your wrench should contact any part of the chassis while you're disconnecting the positve cable. The chassis is grounded when the negative cable is connected.

Is your new battery factory filled and charged or did it come with the acid in a separate bottle? If it's the -BS version read my comments in the link above. If it is factory filled and charged put your maintainer on it anyway to make sure it is fully charged before you start using it.
 
I replaced my stock Yuasa in my 2013 STS with this battery
that I purchased online from BatteryStuff.com
276 Tech Way Grants Pass OR 97526

Manufactured by Yuasa in the US factory in Pennsylvania.
YTX24HL-BS motorcycle battery by Motocross (Yuasa) $92.95
 
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