Found a 2017 F3S - Should I get a used one? Pros & Cons??

[ItsNthaBlood]

I'm new to motorcycles & don't know much about Spyders besides wanting one. I came across a 2017 F3S SE6 with 4500 miles. Should I get it? Pros & cons?

 

[racoon]

How well was it maintained, and does the owner have all of the service records?

 

[Snoking1127]

I'm new to motorcycles & don't know much about Spyders besides wanting one. I came across a 2017 F3S SE6 with 4500 miles. Should I get it? Pros & cons?

I just bought a 2018 RTL with 4100 miles, and replacing the tires was first on my list do to the age of the tires. It was always garaged and the tires looked like new. But in my book they had aged out. Check on recalls, mine had gotten the sprocket recall competed, and on the 16th it goings in for the Transmission output shaft recall 24V728..

2017 F3 is on the list for the Sprocket recall number The sprocket recall also applies to the 2017 F3 22V352.

 

[mecsw500]

That's 9 years old with only 4,500 miles. I'd want a service history with oil changes done by time rather than miles. I'd also factor in things can perish and corrode if not ridden frequently so I'd want it checked out for obvious time related problems. If it actually clocked up miles in recent years I'd be more likely to be happy than if someone stopped using it like 4 years ago and just stored it. Four hundred miles or so per year would suggest there were times in its history it wasn't used at all.

Assuming it's got good bones, I'd put money aside for a complete service as a baseline. That's oil, both filters, a battery, brake fluid and I'd certainly be looking up the manufacturing date on the tires. You can Google on how to read tire date codes. I addition, the drive belt may be dry and a little perished.

You can look up the Kelly Blue Book for Motorcycles to get an idea of its value. I looked it up and it said private purchase is around $10,000.

The elephant in the room is to check if your local dealer is willing to work on Spyders over 10 years old. some will, some won't and some will but only 1330 cc triples like this one, not the earlier 998 cc V-Twins.

If it were me and it checks out and your local dealer is willing to service it, I'd be a buyer under $10K, the further under the better. I'd expect a full service with changing perished items to run properly perhaps up to $1,500, or more if it needs tires, and depending upon its usage history. You might also factor in that in your state you may need a motorcycle endorsement on you driving license to ride one. WA actually requires a trike specific license. I'd get somebody who owns a Spyder to test ride it for you to see if everything functions as it should, being a new rider you probably won't be able to make that call.

 

[TheMariner]

Howdy,

I own a 2017 F3-S purchased in 2024. From experience I offer these tips.

Before Purchase, check for:

1).. Good service records as @racoon said.
2).. Make sure everything works, especially the LH handgrip controls (as they can be a known issue), the brakes & cruise control.
3).. Budget for immediately changing all fluids & filters. This includes the fuel filter & brake fluid as corrosion in the master cylinders is not uncommon.
4).. Check if the drive sprocket & output shaft recalls have been completed. If they haven't... plan to have them done. Its zero cost to you but is an inconvenience.
5).. Check for error-codes being shown on the dash. If they do, they could be genuine problem or a sign the battery is past it's use-by. A battery going bad is well known to start throwing errors where there may not be any.
6).. Tyre age. Check & if they are old, budget for replacements.
7).. Condition of the drive belt & sprockets. Is the belt split/cut/damaged ? Are the teeth on the rear sprocket in good condition ?

After purchase:

1).. If it needs new tyres and/or still has the OEM Kenda's on it, plan to replace them with car tyres. Search the forum to see why.
2).. Immediately change all fluids & filters as above. The fuel filter is in a shocking location, requiring a lot of dismantling just to find it, but it's important to change it because you can also inspect the fuel lines at the same time. The fuel lines are crammed-in & have been known to start splitting at bends. The HCM filter is not cheap... but soooooo easy to replace compared to RT's & spyders with all the extra body panels around the engine.
3).. Ride and enjoy !

 

[Snoking1127]

Howdy,

I own a 2017 F3-S purchased in 2024. From experience I offer these tips.

Before Purchase, check for:

1).. Good service records as @racoon said.
2).. Make sure everything works, especially the LH handgrip controls (as they can be a known issue), the brakes & cruise control.
3).. Budget for immediately changing all fluids & filters. This includes the fuel filter & brake fluid as corrosion in the master cylinders is not uncommon.
4).. Check if the drive sprocket & output shaft recalls have been completed. If they haven't... plan to have them done. Its zero cost to you but is an inconvenience.
5).. Check for error-codes being shown on the dash. If they do, they could be genuine problem or a sign the battery is past it's use-by. A battery going bad is well known to start throwing errors where there may not be any.
6).. Tyre age. Check & if they are old, budget for replacements.
7).. Condition of the drive belt & sprockets. Is the belt split/cut/damaged ? Are the teeth on the rear sprocket in good condition ?

After purchase:

1).. If it needs new tyres and/or still has the OEM Kenda's on it, plan to replace them with car tyres. Search the forum to see why.
2).. Immediately change all fluids & filters as above. The fuel filter is in a shocking location, requiring a lot of dismantling just to find it, but it's important to change it because you can also inspect the fuel lines at the same time. The fuel lines are crammed-in & have been known to start splitting at bends. The HCM filter is not cheap... but soooooo easy to replace compared to RT's & spyders with all the extra body panels around the engine.
3).. Ride and enjoy !

If it gets the transmission recall or has had it recently, then oil, both filters, and anti-freeze will have been or is going to be changed as part of the recall.

 

[TheMariner]

Good point... I should have considered that. Lets just hope dealers do the right thing and change everything like they should.

 

[Bfromla]

Welcome & to my knowledge no F3 had the Vtwin 998 but some dealers & 10y thing just might not care Definitely check service records per the VIN# LH control module known have issues around that time, as others mention other recall/service bulletins, fluids & tires. Battery good idea too,(YUSA) just complete the list for peace of mind. That was last year before dash change with phone integration. Might prefer it. Double check the tool roll.

 

[Mikey]

I'm new to motorcycles & don't know much about Spyders besides wanting one. I came across a 2017 F3S SE6 with 4500 miles. Should I get it? Pros & cons?

If you like turning wrenches and it's in good shape, which it should be with that kind of milage go for it if the price is right! It's not even broke in yet for God's sake! I doubt someone has locked it to the floor and done burn outs with it... Oh wait, the Nanny won't let that happen!!!! Sometimes you can worry a thing to death! Some people are buying these things thinking they're going to be a real road warrior and find out they're better cagers! So, if it's a good price and you want to dip your toe in the pool, the water's fine in my pool!

 

[ItsNthaBlood]

I just bought a 2018 RTL with 4100 miles, and replacing the tires was first on my list do to the age of the tires. It was always garaged and the tires looked like new. But in my book they had aged out. Check on recalls, mine had gotten the sprocket recall competed, and on the 16th it goings in for the Transmission output shaft recall 24V728..

2017 F3 is on the list for the Sprocket recall number The sprocket recall also applies to the 2017 F3 22V352.

Tires look great. The are original. No cracks in the rubber as if they were dry rotting. I do see the recalls.

If you like turning wrenches and it's in good shape, which it should be with that kind of milage go for it if the price is right! It's not even broke in yet for God's sake! I doubt someone has locked it to the floor and done burn outs with it... Oh wait, the Nanny won't let that happen!!!! Sometimes you can worry a thing to death! Some people are buying these things thinking they're going to be a real road warrior and find out they're better cagers! So, if it's a good price and you want to dip your toe in the pool, the water's fine in my pool!

I do like working on things. Not major things tho.

That's 9 years old with only 4,500 miles. I'd want a service history with oil changes done by time rather than miles. I'd also factor in things can perish and corrode if not ridden frequently so I'd want it checked out for obvious time related problems. If it actually clocked up miles in recent years I'd be more likely to be happy than if someone stopped using it like 4 years ago and just stored it. Four hundred miles or so per year would suggest there were times in its history it wasn't used at all.

Assuming it's got good bones, I'd put money aside for a complete service as a baseline. That's oil, both filters, a battery, brake fluid and I'd certainly be looking up the manufacturing date on the tires. You can Google on how to read tire date codes. I addition, the drive belt may be dry and a little perished.

You can look up the Kelly Blue Book for Motorcycles to get an idea of its value. I looked it up and it said private purchase is around $10,000.

The elephant in the room is to check if your local dealer is willing to work on Spyders over 10 years old. some will, some won't and some will but only 1330 cc triples like this one, not the earlier 998 cc V-Twins.

If it were me and it checks out and your local dealer is willing to service it, I'd be a buyer under $10K, the further under the better. I'd expect a full service with changing perished items to run properly perhaps up to $1,500, or more if it needs tires, and depending upon its usage history. You might also factor in that in your state you may need a motorcycle endorsement on you driving license to ride one. WA actually requires a trike specific license. I'd get somebody who owns a Spyder to test ride it for you to see if everything functions as it should, being a new rider you probably won't be able to make that call.

No service history besides recent oil change. Everything is original. Tires are original and in great shape surprisingly. No cracks in the rubber. Local dealer stopped being a dealer recently and won't work on them. I will have to go a hour away to get it worked on and recalls fixed. The vin shows no wrecks or problems. I do have to get the cycle endorsement. Rides great.

Howdy,

I own a 2017 F3-S purchased in 2024. From experience I offer these tips.

Before Purchase, check for:

1).. Good service records as @racoon said.
2).. Make sure everything works, especially the LH handgrip controls (as they can be a known issue), the brakes & cruise control.
3).. Budget for immediately changing all fluids & filters. This includes the fuel filter & brake fluid as corrosion in the master cylinders is not uncommon.
4).. Check if the drive sprocket & output shaft recalls have been completed. If they haven't... plan to have them done. Its zero cost to you but is an inconvenience.
5).. Check for error-codes being shown on the dash. If they do, they could be genuine problem or a sign the battery is past it's use-by. A battery going bad is well known to start throwing errors where there may not be any.
6).. Tyre age. Check & if they are old, budget for replacements.
7).. Condition of the drive belt & sprockets. Is the belt split/cut/damaged ? Are the teeth on the rear sprocket in good condition ?

After purchase:

1).. If it needs new tyres and/or still has the OEM Kenda's on it, plan to replace them with car tyres. Search the forum to see why.
2).. Immediately change all fluids & filters as above. The fuel filter is in a shocking location, requiring a lot of dismantling just to find it, but it's important to change it because you can also inspect the fuel lines at the same time. The fuel lines are crammed-in & have been known to start splitting at bends. The HCM filter is not cheap... but soooooo easy to replace compared to RT's & spyders with all the extra body panels around the engine.
3).. Ride and enjoy !

No service records besides recent oil change. Everything works. Does have those recalls that I have to get fixed. No error codes. It's in great condition considering. I just have the dealership won't give a drive out warranty. Most places do 30days. They won't do anything.

 

[Snoking1127]

Tires look great. The are original. No cracks in the rubber as if they were dry rotting. I do see the recalls.

Tire loose it in other ways, the get hard and loose traction. Replacing them is cheap insurance, particularly on the front.

From Discount Tire web site:

Tire Aging Process​

Tires contain anti-aging properties known as antiozonants that help the rubber stay soft, flexible, and grippy. But over time, air will still permeate the tire wall and weaken the tire's structural integrity. Known as oxidation, this process causes the tire to become brittle and lose strength.

And that's not the only way tires age. Other factors can cause tires to lose their gripping power and overall effectiveness. Research conducted by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) maintains that tires age more rapidly in heat. Warm climates and exposure to direct sunlight can accelerate oxidation and speed up the aging process.

That's why tires equipped on vehicles that are stored outdoors, such as trailers or RVs, age faster than tires on vehicles stored in a garage.

Tires will also age faster if they're not cared for properly. If tires are driven while overinflated or underinflated, internal damage could occur that may not be detected through visual inspection. Impacts, punctures and improper tire repairs may also cause damage that can dramatically decrease your tire's lifespan.

 

[JayBros]

Recognizing you're new to the Y-ryding community and are wise enough to search for a previously owned vehicle so you don't take a big depreciation hit, Have you test ridden both an RT and an F3? I ask because in 2016 I test rode a brand new F3 at a rider demo opportunity. I very much enjoyed the feel and pep of the F3 because of its slightly lower gear ratio but the design of the F3 side panels raised a big comfort issue because they hit right at the inside of both knee joints. In 25 or so miles my knees were sore enough to stick with my RT.

 

[mecsw500]

Tires look great. The are original. No cracks in the rubber as if they were dry rotting. I do see the recalls.


I do like working on things. Not major things tho.


No service history besides recent oil change. Everything is original. Tires are original and in great shape surprisingly. No cracks in the rubber. Local dealer stopped being a dealer recently and won't work on them. I will have to go a hour away to get it worked on and recalls fixed. The vin shows no wrecks or problems. I do have to get the cycle endorsement. Rides great.


No service records besides recent oil change. Everything works. Does have those recalls that I have to get fixed. No error codes. It's in great condition considering. I just have the dealership won't give a drive out warranty. Most places do 30days. They won't do anything.

If the tires are original and nine years old, I wouldn't care if they had done zero miles and rarely seen daylight, I would change them immediately. Tires have a shelf life. Most manufactures recommend changing tires before they are ten years old, regardless of condition.

They are due to be changed as a 2017 registration date meant the bike was probably built in 2016.

The Spyder is very sensitive to tires, both of types and pressures. There is no way I would be trusting my life to tires of that age, especially in the wet. A set of tires is likely cheaper than your insurance or health insurance deductibles if you prang it because the tires weren't up to it.

Sorry to harp on about tires, but even if you change them for the original Kenda brand, the new XPS branded Kendas or one of the suggested car tire options, I think you will be doing yourself a favor. I would just factor it into the price.

You do you and I'll do me, but I know what I would definitely do. Motorcycles and Spyders are far more sensitive to tires and their age than the average family car.

 

[ItsNthaBlood]

Tire loose it in other ways, the get hard and loose traction. Replacing them is cheap insurance, particularly on the front.

From Discount Tire web site:

Tire Aging Process​

Tires contain anti-aging properties known as antiozonants that help the rubber stay soft, flexible, and grippy. But over time, air will still permeate the tire wall and weaken the tire's structural integrity. Known as oxidation, this process causes the tire to become brittle and lose strength.

And that's not the only way tires age. Other factors can cause tires to lose their gripping power and overall effectiveness. Research conducted by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) maintains that tires age more rapidly in heat. Warm climates and exposure to direct sunlight can accelerate oxidation and speed up the aging process.

That's why tires equipped on vehicles that are stored outdoors, such as trailers or RVs, age faster than tires on vehicles stored in a garage.

Tires will also age faster if they're not cared for properly. If tires are driven while overinflated or underinflated, internal damage could occur that may not be detected through visual inspection. Impacts, punctures and improper tire repairs may also cause damage that can dramatically decrease your tire's lifespan.

If the tires are original and nine years old, I wouldn't care if they had done zero miles and rarely seen daylight, I would change them immediately. Tires have a shelf life. Most manufactures recommend changing tires before they are ten years old, regardless of condition.

They are due to be changed as a 2017 registration date meant the bike was probably built in 2016.

The Spyder is very sensitive to tires, both of types and pressures. There is no way I would be trusting my life to tires of that age, especially in the wet. A set of tires is likely cheaper than your insurance or health insurance deductibles if you prang it because the tires weren't up to it.

Sorry to harp on about tires, but even if you change them for the original Kenda brand, the new XPS branded Kendas or one of the suggested car tire options, I think you will be doing yourself a favor. I would just factor it into the price.

You do you and I'll do me, but I know what I would definitely do. Motorcycles and Spyders are far more sensitive to tires and their age than the average family car.R

I will definitely get tires. Thx for the advice

 

[Little Blue]

That makes good sense on New Tires.
Been there and done it wrong.
Max is 10 years. Safe is 6-7 years old.

When in doubt change then out!!!
Life is too short to waste on Tire Issues.

 

[greer]

With tires on the list along with undone recalls, I'd just encourage you to take a moment to make sure the price is right. The dealership ought to take these things into account. Look at FB Marketplace and Cycletrader to see how comparable bikes are priced.

Sarah