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PedalBox and Pedal Commander - what do they do and how do they work?

My opinion of PB & PC

Filing down the trigger on your pistol equals the PB & PC, making the reaction time quicker.
It does not change the bullet or the caliber of the gun.

When I was younger, quickness was my downfall.
Now that I'm 73 years old, I like to take my time - I just try to get there B4 the viagra wears off!

MHO, :thumbup: Bill :joke: :dontknow: nojoke
 
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These guys understand throttle boxes:

"You've been searching for an easy solution to add instant improvement to your truck's bottom end torque and/or throttle response. Stealth Modules plug inline with the truck’s Fuel Pressure Sensor and Boost Sensor (in most situations) providing the help you need. The Module intercepts the signal from those sensors and tells the truck's computer to increase pressure sooner. Increasing fuel pressure and boost pressure adds a better response and more power to your diesel pickup.

"Stealth Modules and throttle sensitivity boosters can be paired together but it is important to understand the distinct benefits of each one individually. The impression of more power and actually having more power available is two different things. A secret in the tuning world before boost comes on has always been to simply ramp up throttle sensitivity and to make the throttle touchier. This tricks your brain into thinking the truck is more powerful. In reality all it is doing is causing the truck to exert significantly more effort and strain in a shorter time period. The alternative approach is what something like a Stealth Module does. By improving the torque curve of the engine, you will have the power to hold higher gears and maintain lower RPMs.

"Imagine approaching a hill with a fully loaded trailer and you're coming up on a slow moving vehicle. Ideally you want to keep your momentum and power up the incline, so you prepare to pass. With a Stealth Module installed you have the ability to roll into the throttle with the confidence that there is plenty of power on tap to get the job done. The engine will respond to your minimal and gradual throttle input with ease. You'll hear the turbo start to spool up at a low RPM and the growl of the engine as it comes to life holding a higher gear, effortlessly performing to get the job done. This is a sharp contrast to the alternate approach of sending a sudden surge of massive throttle input to slam it down into a lower gear and skyrocket your RPMs.

"While throttle sensitivity boosters serve their purpose for some drivers by giving a sporty/jumpy feel in stop and go traffic or right off the line, the majority of drivers who haul precious cargo would benefit more from a smooth and predictable power delivery."

(Sorry Dasmoetorhead; I guess I'm not done yet.)
 
Maybe someone with one of these boxes would conduct a fair test, twisting 100% with and without the box engaged, and compare results. It would be interesting to do this as a blind test, with the driver not knowing if the box were engaged or not.

I did exactly that when I installed my Pedal Commander on my '22 RTL about 2 years ago. I did my tests 0-60 mph. I can't find my numbers now but there was definitely a difference. I believe it was about one second quicker with the PC. I am not going to argue the point but anyone who disagrees the Spyder does not initially accelerate quicker is clearly wrong. Seat of the pants tells you that, but so does the stopwatch.
 
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After reading this and other threads about PBs & PCs, I'm soooo glad I went with an ECU flash with an 8% throttle increase. It'll easily walk away from un-chipped :spyder2:'s.

Lew L
 
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After reading this and other threads about PBs & PCs, I'm soooo glad I went with an ECU flash with an 8% throttle increase. It'll easily walk away from un-chipped :spyder2:'s.

Lew L

Yes, there is no doubt that the flash is the ultimate solution, Lew. However, if you are like me, and find that the Spyder bogs down during quick takeoff (especially if you are in the wrong gear), the “Pedals” provide a quick, easy solution. I have ridden with both the flash (F3) and the PC (RT) and the PC works every bit as well for me as the flash did.

Pete
 
Yes, there is no doubt that the flash is the ultimate solution, Lew. However, if you are like me, and find that the Spyder bogs down during quick takeoff (especially if you are in the wrong gear), the “Pedals” provide a quick, easy solution. I have ridden with both the flash (F3) and the PC (RT) and the PC works every bit as well for me as the flash did.

Pete

Yup ... I had a PV3 with two custom maps on my past F3S, along with a Pedal Commander. The F3S went like a bat out of hell. That said, with my touring RT STS, I'm happily content with just my transferred Pedal Commander. I do appreciate the option of using 87 octane fuel.
 
I've only been riding motorcycles for a bit over 40 years, so maybe I don't yet have enough experience to judge, but my stock 2021 RT's throttle response seems just fine to me. I can normally get ahead of the cages from a dead stop, but don't have any desire to try to beat out the sport bikes. I still don't see any need for any after market additions in this particular matter, but that's just me.
 
I've only been riding motorcycles for a bit over 40 years, so maybe I don't yet have enough experience to judge, but my stock 2021 RT's throttle response seems just fine to me. I can normally get ahead of the cages from a dead stop, but don't have any desire to try to beat out the sport bikes. I still don't see any need for any after market additions in this particular matter, but that's just me.

Ride a similar Spyder with one of these installed and then get back to us. Sometimes it's simply a matter of not knowing what you're missing. You don't have to be a 1/4 mile drag racer to appreciate what one of these units will do for your ride.
 
I'll throw in my 2 cents so it can be shot down. lol

I see no need for this unless you are on a track. In fact, I would argue that going from zero throttle to full throttle will not be good for tires or the engine (especially when cold!)

No one IMO needs to be in that much of a hurry (unless on a track). I'm a heavy dude, around 280 with gear; in Standard mode I can out accelerate 90% of the cars on my commute if I wanted to. I have no issues with merging into traffic or changing lames to pass semi truck in the slow lane etc.. What I DO have is the ability to gently and slowly creep forward at stops and park with precision without having to push buttons to reduce throttle sensitivity. We are sitting on a 1330cc, 115HP engine after all...

:cheers:
 
I'll throw in my 2 cents so it can be shot down. lol

I see no need for this unless you are on a track. In fact, I would argue that going from zero throttle to full throttle will not be good for tires or the engine (especially when cold!)

No one IMO needs to be in that much of a hurry (unless on a track). I'm a heavy dude, around 280 with gear; in Standard mode I can out accelerate 90% of the cars on my commute if I wanted to. I have no issues with merging into traffic or changing lames to pass semi truck in the slow lane etc.. What I DO have is the ability to gently and slowly creep forward at stops and park with precision without having to push buttons to reduce throttle sensitivity. We are sitting on a 1330cc, 115HP engine after all...

:cheers:

No one here is interested in 'Shooting you down'. Though you have some misconceptions about these products, it's your ride. Do it the way you want.
 
I'm with BJR on this. "Sometimes it's simply a matter of not knowing what you're missing."
For sure from a dead stop, well I agree the throttle response is OK. That's as the revs rise, and you change at higher revs, and it will respond.

But the difference is when you are Pootling along in top gear or so, then decide to do a maneuver that requires some throttle, it just doesn't go burrr burr burr until you eventually get to what I call " the power band", like the 2 stroke bikes you may remember from years ago.

No need to go down 2 or 3 gears to get the revs up to actually get some power.
It's all available with a gentle roll on.

I guess if you're happy with the burr bur bur and don't mind dropping 2 or 3 gears to wake it up, well good for you.

For me, who is mostly a Pootler now, but I have been riding since 1972, so I've done my fair share of Fanging about and somehow survived.

Well, I heard of these things, read some stuff, looked at some install videos, pushed the boat out, spent some $, ordered, and fitted one.

Verdict... Wow! What a difference it made - No brainer for me.
 
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No one here is interested in 'Shooting you down'. Though you have some misconceptions about these products, it's your ride. Do it the way you want.

That was a joke. :) I seem to be on the "other side" of the fence on this topic that's all I meant.

I'm not sure I have any misconceptions about these products. They simply move the available throttle response "up" the rotation of the throttle grip. So instead of 100% throttle at 100% wide open, you can have 100% throttle with the grip 10% open. (totally made up numbers) They can't create more power, just give the rider a different perception due to having engine power earlier in the grip rotation. To each his own I say, but I still believe (until someone can logically point out otherwise) that revving an engine (AKA flooring the throttle) can not be good for engines or tires.

:cheers:
 
That was a joke. :) I seem to be on the "other side" of the fence on this topic that's all I meant.

I'm not sure I have any misconceptions about these products. They simply move the available throttle response "up" the rotation of the throttle grip. So instead of 100% throttle at 100% wide open, you can have 100% throttle with the grip 10% open. (totally made up numbers) They can't create more power, just give the rider a different perception due to having engine power earlier in the grip rotation. To each his own I say, but I still believe (until someone can logically point out otherwise) that revving an engine (AKA flooring the throttle) can not be good for engines or tires.

:cheers:

There are always at least 2 sides to every fence. It's hard to find one where everybody is on the same side.

But actually, no. If you request 50% throttle, you'll get 50% throttle with either configuration. You'll just get your 50% (or whatever your grip setting is) without the ECU's built in lag. The more throttle you ask for, the greater the effect with a throttle modifier. The greater the requested throttle opening, the more noticeable the lag with a stock setup. You also get quicker zero throttle with a modifier. Either way, you end up with the same throttle setting. Just without the lag, which is adjustable with a modifier.

It's much like the effect of having a cable actuated throttle. You get what you ask for, when you ask for it.
 
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There are always at least 2 sides to every fence. It's hard to find one where everybody is on the same side.

But actually, no. If you request 50% throttle, you'll get 50% throttle with either configuration. You'll just get your 50% (or whatever your grip setting is) without the ECU's built in lag. The more throttle you ask for, the greater the effect with a throttle modifier. The greater the requested throttle opening, the more noticeable the lag with a stock setup. You also get quicker zero throttle with a modifier. Either way, you end up in the same location. Just with out the lag, which is adjustable with a modifier.

And this is why I love forums with people willing to explain things. Assuming the above is correct (no reason to doubt it), I was wrong. Thanks for setting me straight. :cheers:

I must really be a slow poke because I don't notice much lag, or I accept the lag. ;) I will need to test this on my way home. I suppose my driving and riding habits are very laid back, I'm in no rush and would likely still not find the benefit in spending the money - but I know a little better now how it works!

:cheers:
 
And this is why I love forums with people willing to explain things. Assuming the above is correct (no reason to doubt it), I was wrong. Thanks for setting me straight. :cheers:

I must really be a slow poke because I don't notice much lag, or I accept the lag. ;) I will need to test this on my way home. I suppose my driving and riding habits are very laid back, I'm in no rush and would likely still not find the benefit in spending the money - but I know a little better now how it works!

:cheers:

It should never be about who is right or wrong. It's all about having good information. I'm not always right. Nor do I expect anyone else to be. Perfection is reserved for the next life. I help you, you help me. And we all are better off for the effort!
 
I must really be a slow poke because I don't notice much lag, or I accept the lag. ;) I will need to test this on my way home. I suppose my driving and riding habits are very laid back, I'm in no rush and would likely still not find the benefit in spending the money - but I know a little better now how it works!
:cheers:

Yeah, it’s a funny one, Broderp. I know other riders who don’t notice the lag, and some that do.

What really highlighted it for me was a long curve onto a freeway that I take regularly. It’s a gentle curve, and I usually hit it in 3rd at lowish rpm just cruising around it. Then when I look at approaching freeway traffic, I need to get a move on to accelerate to get up to speed to merge without impacting other traffic. When I grab a handful of throttle, the Spyder bogs down in third (as you would expect), and it’s a bit late to change down. The PC cures this. Of course, this is not the only situation in which it helps me, but it is the most obvious.

Mind you, if I was less lazy and took the curve at higher revs in 2nd gear, getting up to speed would not be an issue and I would not need the PC. That could well be why YOU don’t notice it.

Pete
 
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Fuel consumption is already fairly lame on my Rally so I'll pass on fitting a gadget that makes it drink even quicker. Then again...maybe in a few years though, once I've learnt to ride it round corners properly.....
 
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