Service Shock

[Smitty42]

It was time for the annual service on my 2021 Spyder RT (only have had it for 2 years(so I took into the dealer expecting to pay around $300 for the work. Just about had a heart attack when I was presented with the bill......$603.68 broken down as follows:
Oil change kit $209.99
New Magnetic drain plug due to wear and socket not fitting tight $23.74
2.1 hours of labor $294.00
Shop supplies $29.40
Other charges $46.55

Needless to say this will be the last time I go to the dealer for an oil change. Either find a indepdent shop that can do the service and doesn't require a second mortage on the house or do it myself. I think my 85 year old body should be able to do it, I figure I will borrow a ramp from my brother and along with my 2 (all 35" long) will be able to backup onto the ramps and get the job done.

 

[spyderider1]

Here in Wisconsin, my dealer charged me around 350 for the Oil Change this past spring and next year I have a quote to replace the rear tire for around 700. I've always accepted the fact that nothing is inexpensive with our Spyders and thus far I haven't been disappointed.

 

[RetiredBikerKenJ]

It was time for the annual service on my 2021 Spyder RT (only have had it for 2 years(so I took into the dealer expecting to pay around $300 for the work. Just about had a heart attack when I was presented with the bill......$603.68 broken down as follows:
Oil change kit $209.99
New Magnetic drain plug due to wear and socket not fitting tight $23.74
2.1 hours of labor $294.00
Shop supplies $29.40
Other charges $46.55

Needless to say this will be the last time I go to the dealer for an oil change. Either find a indepdent shop that can do the service and doesn't require a second mortage on the house or do it myself. I think my 85 year old body should be able to do it, I figure I will borrow a ramp from my brother and along with my 2 (all 35" long) will be able to backup onto the ramps and get the job done.

First, sticker shock sucks, don't it? You have my sympathies. I have a 2018 RTL with 16K miles that I've taken to a dealer to have a rear tire mounted and the bite was ~$250. I didn't have a coronary because I bought the tire there. Anyway, I've purchased a couple sets of ramps thinking I'll do my own oil changes. At 79, I can still get down on the floor and all, but getting back up ain't as pretty as it once was. I can back onto two ramps under the front tires without drama. I've tried--a couple times--all three and it didn't go as well. Is there a trick to doing that? I think the rear ramp was trying to go airborne in the rear. I got scared and didn't try again. Didn't wanna end up a statistic. Can someone share a tip?

Thanks, Kenny

 

[weeneil]

The reason I bought the Big blue lift when I bought my Spyder was I dont think I can have all these alternatives and work on a machine I knew nothing about. It allows me to carry out jobs without having to mess about with jacks and other lifts that would never be enough for the jobs in hand

 

[Dusterdude]

Wait until they quote you a brake fluid flush.700 usd

 

[Countdemonet]

Smitty, If you were in Michigan, We'd have handled this together for the price of the parts.
Come on Idaho, step up! Who's going to help this Vet with his next oil change?

 

[baxter]

Yep been down that road. After first oil change now buy from Lamonster for 120 bucks and do it myself. Bought some speed bleeds and did the brake fluid flush myself in no time and lot cheaper.

 

[Bfromla]

Ramps for fronts & then jack & proper stand for rear. At least was on my 13. Not sure what all Buds system may require.

 

[Grandpot]

First, sticker shock sucks, don't it? You have my sympathies. I have a 2018 RTL with 16K miles that I've taken to a dealer to have a rear tire mounted and the bite was ~$250. I didn't have a coronary because I bought the tire there. Anyway, I've purchased a couple sets of ramps thinking I'll do my own oil changes. At 79, I can still get down on the floor and all, but getting back up ain't as pretty as it once was. I can back onto two ramps under the front tires without drama. I've tried--a couple times--all three and it didn't go as well. Is there a trick to doing that? I think the rear ramp was trying to go airborne in the rear. I got scared and didn't try again. Didn't wanna end up a statistic. Can someone share a tip?

Thanks, Kenny

When trying to go up on three ramps, they should be secured in place, especially the rear ramp. Because the rear wheel is the driving wheel, it will try to move. With that said, it is exciting. You must have good control of the throttle and brake. An alternative is to raise the Spyder with a motorcycle lift under the center, then place the three ramps under the wheels and lower the Spyder onto them and remove the lift. This way you will have a clear working area under the bike and it will be level. When done, just drive off the ramps.

A few years ago I made a YouTube video showing several ways to lift a Spyder. Take a look: