Up here in Northern Ontario the weather is still a bit iffy or I would definitely be riding back. This was a private sale so I’m most likely on my own, I’ve never even sat on one, let alone ridden one, so hopefully I can at least get some direction on getting it up the ramp and onto the trailer. After over 45 years riding two wheels, this should be a treat.
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Trailering the Spyder - could use some tips on fastening it down?
- Thread starter Disisme
- Start date
Snoking1127
Well-known member
That trailer deck looks like it is sits pretty low and the ramps are long, so you should have no issues loading it. There are two things to be concerned about on higher trailers with shorter ramps, the first is the nose hitting before the front wheels start raising it up, and second is the shift thingy that hangs down under the Spyder. That shift thingy can hit at the break over point and it is costly to replace it.
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Yes, it does sit pretty low, although it is propped up high enough at the tongue so my truck hitch will go under it to lower it onto the ball, maybe 2” higher than the ball, but that is an option to simply disconnect from truck and raise the tongue if necessary. I will watch now for the shift thingy clearance. Thanks.
Bfromla
Well-known member
If the ramp looks too steep, I'd advise backing up to a curb so the trailer is lower in the street & the ramps are on curb, a good 2 inches or so higher. Disconnecting & loading could do multiple bad things - Rolling into the vehicle; tipping & slamming it back down like a teeter-tottering... PLEASE keep it connected, you can lower the tongue jack & raise the hitch a small amount while it's still attached. Having not ridden a Spyder, you don’t want to try & learn while loading. Others have said it will handle similar to a snowmobile - sorry, I have no experience with them here in LoUiSiAna, but similar to a 4-wheeler, yes! Depending on the condition of the rear tire, questionable traction might arise & I'd caution against just revving it too much.
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Thanks, yes, that is a good idea and probably better than raising the tongue to lower the ramp.
Here's the owner's manual for your bike, Disisme:
Jump to page 149 for the tie down instructions and pictures as described here in the thread. You're in for some great fun ahead
Keep us posted, we'll be waiting for a picture of that bike.
Sarah
Jump to page 149 for the tie down instructions and pictures as described here in the thread. You're in for some great fun ahead
Keep us posted, we'll be waiting for a picture of that bike.Sarah
Mikey
Well-known member
There is a shift actuator hanging down below the belly pan you don't want to hit on the deck when you're coming up the ramp and make the transition to the deck, if the ramps to steep, I would have someone on the ground and watch that for you, if it's going to hit you have to make the ramp with less of an angle. As far as strapping it down a few 2x4's and sheet rock screws, build yourself some chocks screw them in good so it cannot go forward and strap it threw the wheels forward and back and run it! Set the brake! Before I had a trailer and had to borrow one from a friend that's how I did it! Good luck, you can do it!! Have fun!!
blacklightning
Well-known member
I laughed to myself when I read that. I actually keep a box of old socks that have the toe or heel torn out of them for occasions like that. The first time I truely used a pair of those old socks was when I was on a 5 day trip to the mountains with a buddy and i had the wrong type of gloves. They did not come up enough at the top to keep the cold air from going up the sleeve of my jacket and I was freezing. That's when I had the idea of cutting the toe out of an extra pair of socks that I had and sliding them over my gloved hand like leg warmers. Every since, I keep a box of old socks in my wardrobe cabinet in the garage for all sort of uses. Sorry to get off topic. Lol!
Little Blue
SpyderLovers Ambassador
Definitely a lot of good Tips on tying your Spyder on a trailer.
What ever you decide with your straps
be careful about your wheels.
Also Never put a 'Cover' on your Spyder
when you trailer on an Open Trailer.
Good Luck on Your Mission.
What ever you decide with your straps
be careful about your wheels.
Also Never put a 'Cover' on your Spyder
when you trailer on an Open Trailer.
Good Luck on Your Mission.
BajaRon
Well-known member
mecsw500
Active member
In neutral, parking brake on, chocked and strapped through the wheels.
That is pretty important on a manual, as it stops shock-loading from any rear wheel driveline movement passing back up thru the gears; not so important on our SE Spyders, cos on either the SE5's or the SE6's, if the engine's not running, then the clutch isn't engaged and there's no way to pass any shock-loading back beyond the drive belt, which is made to take waaaay more load than you'll get while trailering - well, short of a major accident anyway, which brings a whole 'nuther set of concerns above and well beyond any shock-loading of the gears.
racoon
Well-known member
I have a Stinger CAN-AM Trailer that was specifically designed for hauling Spyders and Rykers.
It has three ramps that you drive the Spyder onto, with vertical stops at the front for the front wheels.
I have a picture that shows the way I tie down the front wheels.
For the rear wheel I have a heavy strap that's about 3 feet long with loops on the ends. I feed it through the rear wheel and then cross the ends over on the tread of the rear tire, and use two ratchet straps to a tie down loop at the outside corners. I don't have a picture of that, but I have a very crude drawing.
It has three ramps that you drive the Spyder onto, with vertical stops at the front for the front wheels.
I have a picture that shows the way I tie down the front wheels.
For the rear wheel I have a heavy strap that's about 3 feet long with loops on the ends. I feed it through the rear wheel and then cross the ends over on the tread of the rear tire, and use two ratchet straps to a tie down loop at the outside corners. I don't have a picture of that, but I have a very crude drawing.
racoon
Well-known member
mecsw500
Active member
Yes, that’s what mine does too. Makes these kinds of trailer, Stinger and Kendon both, really convenient. I’ve no idea what Stinger costs, but I paid about $5,500 for my Kendon with spare wheel, LED lights, folding crank front wheel options and on palette to my door delivery. It seemed like a lot at the time but having a Spyder specific trailer worked out very convenient especially for storage.
Don’t forget to insure the trailer either with your bike or tow vehicle to cover both the trailer and the Spyder on it when you are traveling.
Here’s mine after unpacking.
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