2010 RT key mechanism failing to open frunk - any suggestions on fixes? Or just go to a manual release?

[pkarza]

Just picked up my 2010 RT with less than 30k. It was working fine on Wednesday - but now the seat and frunk won't unlock. I lubed the cables after manually releasing both. The key turns a bit right while pressed but no turn at all left for the frunk. I have taken most of the console apart and saw that one cable was not in the right spot. I put it back into the right spot and it is still not working. I am including a picture of what it was like. Are there any suggestions on HOW to get the ignition mechanism out and service it or replace? Does the fairing have to be completely removed to get to it? Any suggestions? Or should I just say forget it and put a manual release in? Any help greatly appreciated to get this (older) but beautiful bike fully functional again.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just picked up my 2010 RT with less than 30k. It was working fine on Wednesday - but now the seat and frunk won't unlock. I lubed the cables after manually releasing both. The key turns a bit right while pressed but no turn at all left for the frunk. I have taken most of the console apart and saw that one cable was not in the right spot. I put it back into the right spot and it is still not working. I am including a picture of what it was like. Are there any suggestions on HOW to get the ignition mechanism out and service it or replace? Does the fairing have to be completely removed to get to it? Any suggestions? Or should I just say forget it and put a manual release in? Any help greatly appreciated to get this (older) but beautiful bike fully functional again.

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According to the manual, yes, the entire top console comes off in order to remove and service the ignition switch. Surprisingly, there's not that many fasteners. Removing the interference for access to them and to the electrical connectors is the biggest pain.

The cable that locks the little glove box is the most notorious for coming out, but they all had history. It happened on my 2012 about 6 months after I got it new. As you see, the collar pops out of the groove that it's supposed to be in, then the barrel fitting may pop out of it's seat, or possibly get mis-aligned and jammed up in there. That could be the reason your switch is not turning in one direction. Luckily, I was able to access everything by popping out a speaker grill cover and then using some long reach tools. Once it's all put back into place, then RTV the crap out of that collar to keep it where it belongs!

Or... just install some manual releases and be done with it. Good Luck.

 

[Mikey]

You will probably want to put manual rip cords on those locks, and if you get the cables back to where you need them, I can't remember if there's an adjuster on those cables or not. If so, tighten them up a bit, lube is your friend! I had to replace one cable on my 2012, I eventually won the battle, but by then, I had half of a can of bandaids on my hands, and I'd used a few new words not in the Webster dictionary! Good luck!!!