2010 RT key mechanism failing to open frunk - any suggestions on fixes? Or just go to a manual release?

[pkarza]

Just picked up my 2010 RT with less than 30k. It was working fine on Wednesday - but now the seat and frunk won't unlock. I lubed the cables after manually releasing both. The key turns a bit right while pressed but no turn at all left for the frunk. I have taken most of the console apart and saw that one cable was not in the right spot. I put it back into the right spot and it is still not working. I am including a picture of what it was like. Are there any suggestions on HOW to get the ignition mechanism out and service it or replace? Does the fairing have to be completely removed to get to it? Any suggestions? Or should I just say forget it and put a manual release in? Any help greatly appreciated to get this (older) but beautiful bike fully functional again.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Just picked up my 2010 RT with less than 30k. It was working fine on Wednesday - but now the seat and frunk won't unlock. I lubed the cables after manually releasing both. The key turns a bit right while pressed but no turn at all left for the frunk. I have taken most of the console apart and saw that one cable was not in the right spot. I put it back into the right spot and it is still not working. I am including a picture of what it was like. Are there any suggestions on HOW to get the ignition mechanism out and service it or replace? Does the fairing have to be completely removed to get to it? Any suggestions? Or should I just say forget it and put a manual release in? Any help greatly appreciated to get this (older) but beautiful bike fully functional again.

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According to the manual, yes, the entire top console comes off in order to remove and service the ignition switch. Surprisingly, there's not that many fasteners. Removing the interference for access to them and to the electrical connectors is the biggest pain.

The cable that locks the little glove box is the most notorious for coming out, but they all had history. It happened on my 2012 about 6 months after I got it new. As you see, the collar pops out of the groove that it's supposed to be in, then the barrel fitting may pop out of it's seat, or possibly get mis-aligned and jammed up in there. That could be the reason your switch is not turning in one direction. Luckily, I was able to access everything by popping out a speaker grill cover and then using some long reach tools. Once it's all put back into place, then RTV the crap out of that collar to keep it where it belongs!

Or... just install some manual releases and be done with it. Good Luck.

 

[Mikey]

You will probably want to put manual rip cords on those locks, and if you get the cables back to where you need them, I can't remember if there's an adjuster on those cables or not. If so, tighten them up a bit, lube is your friend! I had to replace one cable on my 2012, I eventually won the battle, but by then, I had half of a can of bandaids on my hands, and I'd used a few new words not in the Webster dictionary! Good luck!!!

 

[pkarza]

According to the manual, yes, the entire top console comes off in order to remove and service the ignition switch. Surprisingly, there's not that many fasteners. Removing the interference for access to them and to the electrical connectors is the biggest pain.

The cable that locks the little glove box is the most notorious for coming out, but they all had history. It happened on my 2012 about 6 months after I got it new. As you see, the collar pops out of the groove that it's supposed to be in, then the barrel fitting may pop out of it's seat, or possibly get mis-aligned and jammed up in there. That could be the reason your switch is not turning in one direction. Luckily, I was able to access everything by popping out a speaker grill cover and then using some long reach tools. Once it's all put back into place, then RTV the crap out of that collar to keep it where it belongs!

Or... just install some manual releases and be done with it. Good Luck.

Were you actually able to get your hands through a speaker grill? I am going to try that! And if this is still fighting me I am going to put a manual release in for the frunk and just leave the seat without a release... As the cable isn't working at all.....but I will give your suggestions a shot! ( Also I am going to bypass the dess)

 

[pkarza]

You will probably want to put manual rip cords on those locks, and if you get the cables back to where you need them, I can't remember if there's an adjuster on those cables or not. If so, tighten them up a bit, lube is your friend! I had to replace one cable on my 2012, I eventually won the battle, but by then, I had half of a can of bandaids on my hands, and I'd used a few new words not in the Webster dictionary! Good luck!!!

I hear you about bandaids and the words expressed. As I told the other reply, I am going to give it one more try and then I think I am going to put in a permanent frunk release and mount it in the glove box or under the seat or somewhere permanent. I am not even certain that I am going to even put a lock on the seat... I am going to bypass the dess, too.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Were you actually able to get your hands through a speaker grill? I am going to try that! And if this is still fighting me I am going to put a manual release in for the frunk and just leave the seat without a release... As the cable isn't working at all.....but I will give your suggestions a shot! ( Also I am going to bypass the dess)

I have a long, skinny pair of needle nose pliers and forceps. Don’t believe I got my hands too far in. Once I got the cable back into place, then just applied RTV to all of them to keep them in place. How were you planning to bypass DESS, since you have a 2010 and it can’t be done with BUDS. Yeah, doing the wiring mod works, but DESS 1.0 was so reliable that it could be a bigger pain than it’s worth. Up to you, though. It does make creating spare keys easier, that’s for sure.

 

[pkarza]

I have a long, skinny pair of needle nose pliers and forceps. Don’t believe I got my hands too far in. Once I got the cable back into place, then just applied RTV to all of them to keep them in place. How were you planning to bypass DESS, since you have a 2010 and it can’t be done with BUDS. Yeah, doing the wiring mod works, but DESS 1.0 was so reliable that it could be a bigger pain than it’s worth. Up to you, though. It does make creating spare keys easier, that’s for sure.

I saw a video on the hardware mod... But I didn't know the 2010 was reliable. I think what is ticking me off is that when I got the bike ( which is about a 9.9/10) last wei EVERYTHING worked! I am just trying tonavoiyany problems so I can drive this for a couple of years... Or maybe more

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I saw a video on the hardware mod... But I didn't know the 2010 was reliable. I think what is ticking me off is that when I got the bike ( which is about a 9.9/10) last wei EVERYTHING worked! I am just trying tonavoiyany problems so I can drive this for a couple of years... Or maybe more

Yeah. It’s frustrating. Now that it’s getting more use, things start failing. DESS 1.0 - first version - was very reliable. The programming was a royal pain, though, if you lost a key or had to replace an ignition switch. The problems with DESS started in the 2014 model year. We did discover that DESS 1.0 would accept a key that was cloned from an original OEM key. So, all a person needed to do was get an inexpensive, blank chipped key and get it cloned from their existing BRP key if they wanted spares. So, there’s that.

If you want to get yourself a shop manual and dive into this thing, you can download one here. God luck with your ride.

2010-2011 Can-Am Spyder RT Series Repair and Maintenance Manual Master Collection

New updated full digital version as of 5/2019 High Definition Keyword Searchable Factory OEM Manual - 1260 Pages Covers the entire 2010-2011 CanAm Spyder RT / RTS / Ltd. series (all versions) Contains over 450 pages of extra content never included in the book including: The full BRP 804 page...

brpmanuals.com

 

[Donbmw]

Do a search of the forums install cables to pull to release the seat and the frunk.

 

[Mikey]

I hear you about bandaids and the words expressed. As I told the other reply, I am going to give it one more try and then I think I am going to put in a permanent frunk release and mount it in the glove box or under the seat or somewhere permanent. I am not even certain that I am going to even put a lock on the seat... I am going to bypass the dess, too.

Like Snowbelt said, don't bother with the Dress if you need a key to start the bike just get a chipped key cloned, if you just want to unlock the bike get a spare key cut! Good luck with your cable!!