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Engine Trouble - intermittently won't start! Any ideas on what to look for?

Today’s report… lol. 3 trips (around 8 miles total) around town and she started every time. Took the Tupperware off on the left and located the crank sensor. Removed it just to see if there would be any metal pieces on there like someone else in another forum suggested. Looked clean, just oil on it. Installed it back in the housing.
Saw a little oil around the cylinder all the way down past the output shaft to the oil filter area. It must have seeped out from somewhere over time, because it is all caked on to the engine with road dirt/dust. So my question right now is, can I spray some engine cleaner/Simple Green on there, then hose it down without causing any more problems? That way I would be able to eventually see where the oil is coming from.

And also, something I was wanting to pass on… when I removed the MAP sensor to replace the hoses, I noticed the MAP sensor was kind of loose inside the little plastic housing where the hoses attach to. It was loose only in the area where it would be all the way seated down. Pulling it out of the housing, it became tight again on the way out. The green O-ring of the MAP sensor was all flattened out. So I tried to find a new O-ring at the Autoparts store but no luck. Back at home I took my heat gun and applied heat carefully to the O-ring area. It didn’t even take 10 seconds before I could see the O-ring go back to it‘s original shape and the material felt soft again like a normal O-ring. Then when I reinstalled the MAP sensor back into the little plastic housing with the 2 hoses, it felt tight all the way down. No need to replace the sensor.

This is one of the reasons I have to get the Spyder running without breaking down anywhere. I will have to load up the Spyder by mid August.
We will be going on a trip to the West Coast starting in Michigan. The Spyder has to be reliable, like it has been in the past years.
IMG_4034.jpeg - IMG_4037.jpeg
 
I just changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Tried to start the engine and she didn’t start. Checked for code and it showed P0335. Then I remembered that it was kind of hard to slide the connector together and I checked it…well I plugged it in the wrong way and made it didn’t make good connection. So it went together easy just fine when you do it the right way…lmao. Needless to say she started right up after the correction and I drove around the block just to make sure. I will be putting the Tupperware back on and do more driving longer distances to make sure my problems are solved. Hopefully that was it.
Right now I like to tell everyone who helped me with my repair thank you from the bottom of my heart for pointing me in the right direction.
I will let everyone know if the problem is solved after a few days of driving.
If anyone can think of anything else that I should look at please let me know.
 
We are all crossing our fingers for you. If the crank position sensor was part of the problem you can understand my never ending hatred for the things.

If it proves true, you have just put a $40 Amazon part made who knows where on you bike. Whether it is better quality than the BRP original, who knows, so I would buy another one as a spare and chuck it in the frunk/trunk.

Here’s hoping for you. You’ve been on a long journey with this bike.
 
Here we go again….
I took the bike for a test drive about 25 miles and half way I stopped, turned off the engine for about 5 minutes and she started right back up again. At that point I started to get my hopes up. Drove back home and stopped about a mile from my house to get an ice cream. Tried to start again and…she started right up but….then the engine started to hesitate with the rpm. It went from 1200rpm to 1500rpm roughly and sounded at one point it wasn’t timed properly. At that point I turned the throttle but couldn’t rev it up without hit and miss. Couldn’t drive that way and then the rpm went lower and she died again. I’m sure I could smell gas. Will wait another 10 minutes and try to start the engine again.
There must be something else giving me the problem….
 
I don’t know what else it could be.
The fuel pump runs for about 8 to 10 seconds and then stops when I get ready to start the engine. It normally stops when the warning gets displayed and I have to push the mode button.
No code displayed
 
I don’t know what else it could be.
The fuel pump runs for about 8 to 10 seconds and then stops when I get ready to start the engine. It normally stops when the warning gets displayed and I have to push the mode button.
No code displayed
So, I’m going to go back to the fleet history. You were asked on page 1 if you changed plugs and wires. You mentioned plugs. What’s the status of your wires. The OEM wires were horrible. That’s why Ron developed a set for the 998. Many of us changed wires proactively before we had problems. If these are still the 16 year old or OEM wires, I’d suggest going to Ron’s store and getting a set.

If you do, note that the boots on his wires are much better and deeper. Take care to ensure that the connector on the end of the wire reaches and snaps onto the plug post. A bit harder to feel with the new boots.
 
So, I’m going to go back to the fleet history. You were asked on page 1 if you changed plugs and wires. You mentioned plugs. What’s the status of your wires. The OEM wires were horrible. That’s why Ron developed a set for the 998. Many of us changed wires proactively before we had problems. If these are still the 16 year old or OEM wires, I’d suggest going to Ron’s store and getting a set.

If you do, note that the boots on his wires are much better and deeper. Take care to ensure that the connector on the end of the wire reaches and snaps onto the plug post. A bit harder to feel with the new boots.
Then that will be my next move. Just waited around 15 minutes and she almost started for 1 to 2 seconds and died again. Just about like last time. I waited long enough for the tow truck and just before the truck arrived she started right up. I don’t know if it is the temperature of the engine?
 
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