Engine Trouble - intermittently won't start! Any ideas on what to look for?

[Roadsterryder]

Today’s report… lol. 3 trips (around 8 miles total) around town and she started every time. Took the Tupperware off on the left and located the crank sensor. Removed it just to see if there would be any metal pieces on there like someone else in another forum suggested. Looked clean, just oil on it. Installed it back in the housing.
Saw a little oil around the cylinder all the way down past the output shaft to the oil filter area. It must have seeped out from somewhere over time, because it is all caked on to the engine with road dirt/dust. So my question right now is, can I spray some engine cleaner/Simple Green on there, then hose it down without causing any more problems? That way I would be able to eventually see where the oil is coming from.

And also, something I was wanting to pass on… when I removed the MAP sensor to replace the hoses, I noticed the MAP sensor was kind of loose inside the little plastic housing where the hoses attach to. It was loose only in the area where it would be all the way seated down. Pulling it out of the housing, it became tight again on the way out. The green O-ring of the MAP sensor was all flattened out. So I tried to find a new O-ring at the Autoparts store but no luck. Back at home I took my heat gun and applied heat carefully to the O-ring area. It didn’t even take 10 seconds before I could see the O-ring go back to it‘s original shape and the material felt soft again like a normal O-ring. Then when I reinstalled the MAP sensor back into the little plastic housing with the 2 hoses, it felt tight all the way down. No need to replace the sensor.

This is one of the reasons I have to get the Spyder running without breaking down anywhere. I will have to load up the Spyder by mid August.
We will be going on a trip to the West Coast starting in Michigan. The Spyder has to be reliable, like it has been in the past years.
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[Roadsterryder]

I just changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Tried to start the engine and she didn’t start. Checked for code and it showed P0335. Then I remembered that it was kind of hard to slide the connector together and I checked it… well, I plugged it in the wrong way and that meant it didn’t make a good connection. So it went together easy just fine when you do it the right way… lmao. Needless to say, she started right up after the correction and I drove around the block just to make sure. I will be putting the Tupperware back on and do more driving longer distances to make sure my problems are solved. Hopefully that was it.
Right now I'd like to tell everyone who helped me with my repair thank you from the bottom of my heart for pointing me in the right direction.
I will let everyone know if the problem is solved after a few days of driving.
If anyone can think of anything else that I should look at, please let me know.

 

[mecsw500]

We are all crossing our fingers for you. If the crank position sensor was part of the problem you can understand my never ending hatred for the things.

If it proves true, you have just put a $40 Amazon part made who knows where on you bike. Whether it is better quality than the BRP original, who knows, so I would buy another one as a spare and chuck it in the frunk/trunk.

Here’s hoping for you. You’ve been on a long journey with this bike.

 

[Mikey]

A dab of dielectric grease on those plugs keeps the gremlins out!!!

 

[Roadsterryder]

Here we go again….
I took the bike for a test drive about 25 miles and half way I stopped, turned off the engine for about 5 minutes and she started right back up again. At that point I started to get my hopes up. Drove back home and stopped about a mile from my house to get an ice cream. Tried to start again and… she started right up, but then the engine started to hesitate with the rpm. It went from 1200rpm to 1500rpm roughly and sounded at one point as if it wasn’t timed properly. At that point I turned the throttle but couldn’t rev it up without hit and miss. I couldn’t drive that way and then the rpm's went lower and she died again. I’m sure I could smell gas. I will wait another 10 minutes and try to start the engine again.
There must be something else giving me the problem…

I don’t know what else it could be.
The fuel pump runs for about 8 to 10 seconds and then stops when I get ready to start the engine. It normally stops when the warning gets displayed and I have to push the mode button.
No code displayed

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

I don’t know what else it could be.
The fuel pump runs for about 8 to 10 seconds and then stops when I get ready to start the engine. It normally stops when the warning gets displayed and I have to push the mode button.
No code displayed

So, I’m going to go back to the fleet history. You were asked on page 1 if you changed plugs and wires. You mentioned plugs. What’s the status of your wires. The OEM wires were horrible. That’s why Ron developed a set for the 998. Many of us changed wires proactively before we had problems. If these are still the 16 year old or OEM wires, I’d suggest going to Ron’s store and getting a set.

If you do, note that the boots on his wires are much better and deeper. Take care to ensure that the connector on the end of the wire reaches and snaps onto the plug post. A bit harder to feel with the new boots.

 

[Roadsterryder]

So, I’m going to go back to the fleet history. You were asked on page 1 if you changed plugs and wires. You mentioned plugs. What’s the status of your wires. The OEM wires were horrible. That’s why Ron developed a set for the 998. Many of us changed wires proactively before we had problems. If these are still the 16 year old or OEM wires, I’d suggest going to Ron’s store and getting a set.

If you do, note that the boots on his wires are much better and deeper. Take care to ensure that the connector on the end of the wire reaches and snaps onto the plug post. A bit harder to feel with the new boots.

Then that will be my next move. Just waited around 15 minutes and she almost started for 1 to 2 seconds and died again. Just about like last time. I waited long enough for the tow truck and just before the truck arrived she started right up. I don’t know if it is the temperature of the engine?

 

[Roadsterryder]

Yea. After an half hour she started right up without any problems and I drove home. BajaRon is out of stock on the spark plugs cables.

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

DM sent.

 

[Dakotaz]

Yea. After an half hour she started right up without any problems and I drove home. BajaRon is out of stock on the spark plugs cables.

Call them Monday. I know when I needed a sway bar he told me that they cannot always keep up the correct quantities on the web site. They had stock even though the web site said zero.

 

[Roadsterryder]

Call them Monday. I know when I needed a sway bar he told me that they cannot always keep up the correct quantities on the web site. They had stock even though the web site said zero.

Thanks I will call Monday for sure

 

[Roadsterryder]

Called BajaRon this morning and she said that they are out of components to make new cables and their supplier seems to be out of stock too….

Checked online for replacement cables some more and ordered cables from Ton‘s Performance. It looks like they are made from the same spiral wound material as the one from BajaRon. Will see.

 

[mecsw500]

I’m so sorry. We thought you were out of the woods with this thing.

An alternate source for plug leads might be Ton’ Performance at tonsperformance.com.

I believe they make a custom set for Can Am Spyder’s with the 998 motor. They seem to know what they are doing from their website.

 

[Roadsterryder]

I’m so sorry. We thought you were out of the woods with this thing.

An alternate source for plug leads might be Ton’ Performance at tonsperformance.com.

I believe they make a custom set for Can Am Spyder’s with the 998 motor. They seem to know what they are doing from their website.

It‘s on order and will get it July 8th

 

[Roadsterryder]

Well...I received my new cables from Ton's Performance a little faster than expected.
So the fun part started yesterday taking both sides of Tupperware off, unscrewing part of the frame on the right side (still don't know how I can get the front screw back in the hole) and removed the air box. Replaced the Ignition cables and while at it I removed the spark plugs just to check them. Those are Laser/Iridium KR8BI I installed 2 years ago and most likely have less than 3000 miles on them. Everything looked good (gap is still 0.030"). While taking stuff apart I noticed that the vent hose coming from the cylinder head to the air box was loose. Enough to make an oily mess. Just got new hose and clamps and most likely will start the assembly process tomorrow. I am not looking forward to it...
Engine started right up with the new cables.
So before I start to close things up does anyone have any more ideas what I could check???? Is there a way to take the fuel pump out to inspect without damaging anything? Or should I just leave it alone?
So far all the changes I made haven't really helped my situation. Even with the new hoses on the MAP sensor and all the other new parts the engine still does have a problem starting when hot. Every time I have to let the engine cool down for a while and than she starts like there was never a problem. Is it heat related (it almost looks like it from how it is acting) or fuel related??
Will see how it runs with the new Ignition cables.

 

[mecsw500]

I’d replace every piece of vacuum hose I could find.

As for heat related, my favorite enemy on any engine that does this to me is to replace the crank position sensor.

I don’t know were it is on a 998 but it’s usually by the flywheel or magneto.

They aren’t very expensive, which of course for their essential function is never a good thing.

A simple way to check is that while it’s cranking over to non start, does the rev counter needle move up a bit or not.

If it doesn’t move the ECU isn’t getting a signal from the sensor which in turn won’t move the RPM needle, nor will it supply fuel or make a spark.

 

[Roadsterryder]

I’d replace every piece of vacuum hose I could find.

As for heat related, my favorite enemy on any engine that does this to me is to replace the crank position sensor.

I don’t know were it is on a 998 but it’s usually by the flywheel or magneto.

They aren’t very expensive, which of course for their essential function is never a good thing.

A simple way to check is that while it’s cranking over to non start, does the rev counter needle move up a bit or not.

If it doesn’t move the ECU isn’t getting a signal from the sensor which in turn won’t move the RPM needle, nor will it supply fuel or make a spark.

Hi there. You pointed that one out before in your previous post and I replaced the crank positioning sensor and then got stuck again. So it‘s not that. The other vacuum hose I can see is the one that goes to the clutch housing. Shouldn’t have anything to do with the starting. But I will check around. What’s the other fuel line that goes from the tank to the other side of the carb? Is it a fuel return line?

 

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So first, completely unrelated. While you have the airbox off, on the right hand side of the engine you’ll see the two coolant lines leaving the upper portion of each cylinder and going into that large black fitting. The hose clamps right next to the engine are typically worm gear clamps. Can’t get a crimping tool in there. You’ll want to snug them up a bit. Just a bit.

Yes, appears to always have been a hot start issue. We’ve taken care of the one typical cause with the canister bypass and MAP sensor lines. Now we’ll need to rule out having a dripping fuel injector. It’s the same failure mode. Fuel vapors fill the intake and displace the air, causing excessive cranking and failure to start.

It’s time for a good test flight and finish cleaning the fuel system. Not a big fan of HEET. A full tank of fresh gas, a dose or double dose of Chevron Techron. Either fuel or injector cleaner. Go out for a run, don’t turn it off, and come back home after about 100 miles.

Relax, have a beer, go out and see if it starts.

And yes, the fuel flow is from the pump, through the fuel rails, through the pressure regulator, and back to the tank. You can’t remove the fuel pump easily at all.

BTW, can’t recall if we covered this or not- the fuel pressure regulator is that silver domed round thing on the left side of the throttle body. You see the top of it in one of the pictures up above. The pressure reference for it is either another little vacuum line going to the side of the throttle body. Or it’s a small screen filter that sticks out from the side pointing to the rear. Depending on which version you have. Check both.