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What power outlet & fuse do you use for heated clothing?

FROGMAN

Member
What power outlet did you buy to power your heated clothing and what fuse did you use? I plan to install a power outlet directly to my fuse box to power my heated clothing and run my hand held compressor/inflator for tires.

Looking at a waterproof 12v cigarette lighter socket power outlet and running a 14 awg wire with a 15 or 20 amp fuse to my fuse boxes. Any issues with the brand of socket?
 
Check with Lamonster. I think he has a 12v socket with mount. Best to run the heat thru a relay back to the battery.
 
I have a direct line (with an inline fuse) to my battery for my heated gear. I also use it for my battery tender.

Power for heater gear 1.jpg - Power for heater gear 2.jpg
 
Check with Lamonster. I think he has a 12v socket with mount. Best to run the heat thru a relay back to the battery.

He does have the Dual Power Plate (that fits F3 + RT models).

What power outlet did you buy to power your heated clothing and what fuse did you use? I plan to install a power outlet directly to my fuse box to power my heated clothing and run my hand held compressor/inflator for tires.

Looking at a waterproof 12v cigarette lighter socket power outlet and running a 14 awg wire with a 15 or 20 amp fuse to my fuse boxes. Any issues with the brand of socket?

HI Frogman,

I sent you a PM.

Deanna
 
I think we just did a thread on this subject. Most of the manufacturers suggest going direct to the battery and that is how I am wired with an inline fuse. My controller only passes current when something is hooked to it, so no worries about leaving it on.
 
My question is not where to run the outlet, but what's a good outlet. "Waterproof 12v Cigarette Lighter Socket Power Outlet" I assume based on the draw, it should use a 14 or 16 awg? Fuse would be 15 or 20?

Deanna-I sent you a PM back, if I did it correct.
 
As others have said, directly off a battery tender lead, and use SAE connectors. I use a 14-awg and 15-amp fuse. I keep the lead under the seat when not in use. Simple easy and quick, and I've never had a problem with it in 10 years. But if you want to install a "Waterproof 12v Cigarette Lighter Socket Power Outlet", that's cool, it just takes more time and $$$$.
 
My question is not where to run the outlet, but what's a good outlet. "Waterproof 12v Cigarette Lighter Socket Power Outlet" I assume based on the draw, it should use a 14 or 16 awg? Fuse would be 15 or 20?

Deanna-I sent you a PM back, if I did it correct.


Frogman,

I got your PM, and I replied.

I have a 2.0 Power Plate with a 12 V Cigarette Lighter & USB Connection that is waterproof. I have my Battery Tender Jr. plugged into my it, and I also run my heated jacket (which is 90 Watts) on it.

Deanna
 
Deanna - you run your heated jacket out of your 12v/USB power outlet for GPS mount? Did you wire that straight to the battery and what amp fuse do you run with it? I have a Warm & Safe jacket liner that draws 90w.
 
Deanna - you run your heated jacket out of your 12v/USB power outlet for GPS mount? Did you wire that straight to the battery and what amp fuse do you run with it? I have a Warm & Safe jacket liner that draws 90w.

Hi Frogman,

I run my heated jacket out of the 12V/USB power outlet. I don't have the GPS mount. Yes, I did run the wiring straight to the battery. Let me get back to you about the amps of the fuse that I use. I also have Warm & Safe Heated jacket that draws 90w.

Deanna
 
Use the DIN/Hella/BMW/John Deere socket and connector.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2560129416...customid=5a27f99a-4729-46d9-92a9-553fd0f70680

It latches in solidly, unlike 'cigarette lighter' plugs, and, more importantly, it is waterproof when plugged together. I've mounted these on my ST in the past and put hundreds of hours powering a heated jacket through all kinds of weather, including a run across the whole of Nebraska in pouring rain. I've installed 2 of these on my RT, one for my heated gear, and one in the back for the wife's.
 
I was going to say, Use the DIN/Hella/BMW/John Deere socket and connector. Thanks

On my other motorcycles I used the above by Powerlet (I think they went under) then some adapters when needed to run anything to plug in, even a jumper cable. It was wired to my generic fuse block. I am not sure the Show Chrome fuse block will handle heated gear plus other stuff. The block is limited to 20 amps. I did install the Show Chrome but I wish I would have used a generic one rated for more amps. However, on the Spyder I will not be mounting any high powered driving/fog lights like Clear Water or Denali I have on others. I doubt I'll be using any heated gear anymore so the 20 amp Show Chrome should be fine for me on this Spyder.
 
Deanna - you run your heated jacket out of your 12v/USB power outlet for GPS mount? Did you wire that straight to the battery and what amp fuse do you run with it? I have a Warm & Safe jacket liner that draws 90w.

HI FROGMAN,

I am using a 15 fuse amp.

Deanna
 
The only power outlet needed for heating clothing in Florida is the 220 volt receptical behind the dryer. You only need that when it rains for several days and you can't hang the clothes outside on the clothes line.
 
Will install a 12v waterproof power outlet below the toggle switches and hard wire it to my new fuse box. Use a 15 amp and cigarette lighter plug with a 16-gauge wire and an SAE end. I have an SAE/coax splitter I use on my BMW. I use a hand-held inflator for tires that uses an SAE connector. My power 12v/USB is wired to the bike on the right side; I do not want to run through the bike's system to power the heated clothing/inflator.
 
I've just installed wiring for my heated jackets, Satnav, and camera.

First, I needed a connection to the battery into which I can plug my battery charger.

For that, I made up a couple of short leads, one red with an in-line 25A fuse - 28A thin wall cable with 30A ring terminal. The black one with a 30A ring terminal and 28A cable. These leads were significantly protected and terminated with a female 2 pole connector and strapped to the battery using the rubber battery retaining strap. It isn't going anywhere!

That connector is used to connect the battery charger and can be used to power a portable tyre inflator.

My own accessories are connected by 28A cable to that same connector - that is not to say all 3 things are connected to it at once. Only one is connected at any time, the Battery Charger, Tyre inflator, or one of my accessories. From there, I have a cable that runs to a location near to the brake fluid reservoir on the left hand side. That lead is triple protected with polyester woven sleeve, spiral bound sleeve, and tape; and cable tied to stop it rubbing against anything.

The power feeds directly into a relay, which is triggered by the connector that is provided on the RTL for connecting a GPS - just ahead of the brake fluid reservoir. Before the relay, the lead that comes from the battery is always live and I am ultra cautious about that. But the 30A fuse will blow instantly should it short out on anything. The accessories only get power when the relay is turned on, which will happen after that short delay after turning on the ignition. So all of my accessories are turned on/off with the ignition.

The three fuses provide power for the GPS/Camera, front heated jacket, and rear heated jacket. Fuses are 7.5A or 10A, but the cable I have used is 10A thin wall cable. I used 2.8mm Hitachi connectors for the joints for the Satnav/camera; 6.3 mm male/female connectors for the heated jackets. Connectors are used wherever the cable might need to be separated to get to other components for servicing.

I have use 'Powerlet' connectors for the heated jackets. One is let into the plastic underneath the right hand rear grab rail. One is on the upper side of the left black trim - just ahead of the rider's left knee. Powerlet are the type used by BMW and are sometimes referred to as 'Hella' connectors. They are quite robust and have contacts rated at about 20A. The heated jackets have individual heat controllers - but even before we got these, it was easy enough to unplug or reconnect. Jackets are worn close to the skin - on top of a thin shirt, so they don't need to be hot.

The camera is an Innovv K7 Front and rear camera. Those are mounted above the rear light, below the rear top box, and on the flat part of the grill above the front trunk. The GPS unit for this is stuck just inside the front trunk - there is a ledge below the trunk lid. The controller is on the small shelf in front of the right hand speaker. The Video Recorder/control unit is mounted on a foam board which sits behind the zipped liner for the front trunk. There are a few cables coming in from the top side of the frunk which I have yet to tidy up. Everything was nice and tidy before I had to put the camera stuff into the front trunk. It simply would not fit anywhere else and it has 6 cables going into it. I had to order an extension lead for one of the cameras. Unfortunatley, modern video cameras for vehicles need access to 'always on' power - this is so that when it detects that the ignition has been turned off, it can transfer what it was in the middle of recording to the SD card, and then shut down the recorder properly. It takes 10 - 20 seconds for it to do this after the ignition has been turned off.

I've attached a circuit diagram that I created so that I didn't have to think too hard while I was wiring it. I can do the wiring OK; I can think and plan OK; but doing both at the same time? No - that isn't going to end well!!

RTL - Electrics - Accessory Harness.png
 
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